80,000hrs. MY ***!

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The transformer you have should be OK. Just use the rectifier bridge to drive the LEDs only. Put a filter capacitor on the output of the rectifier bridge (watch for polarity). A few hundred uF should be enough since we're only dealing with a current of about 20 mA. You only need a one-amp rectifier bridge (those are about the size of an 8-pin DIP package). In fact, even an IN4001 diode should be OK if you have a filter cap of around 470 uF or more (make sure to use one rated for 25VDC or better). You should have about 15VDC across the capacitor so a 470 ohm resistor will give you a current of roughly 18 mA if you connect the two LEDs in series. The low-voltage alcove light remains connected straight to the AC output of the transformer.
 
Re: 80,000hrs. MY TOLIET MUSCLE!

The heirarchy concurs!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

The AC from the transformer is what's killing the LEDs.

Use a bridge rectifier to change that to pulsating DC, and place a good size (1000µF or more) electrolytic capacitor (they're polarity sensitive too, be sure you have + and - on there right) across the DC output to help smooth out those pulsations; this should greatly reduce or even elimate flicker.
 
Re: 80,000hrs. MY TOLIET MUSCLE!

What I wouldn't give for someone to draw me a diagram. I'm lost /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
Buy a "wall wart". Plug-in DC power supplies come in a variety of voltages and current capabilities...relatively cheap. Hell I might even have one I could send you in the old junk box if you figure out what voltage and current you want.
 
btw i have an early nichia white that i installed in a 12v fluorescent desklamp as a nightlight.i converted this fixture in 97 and it has been on ever since.
only goes off when the main light is on as it is across the switch.running 15-20 ma and still looks as good as the day i installed it.i swapped it with another from the same batch and saw no difference.estimate over 50k hours on it.
 
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