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ozzie_c_cobblepot

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==================Flashlight Recommendation Checklist================



1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?


____I would like to purchase the light in person from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.

__X__This will be mail-order or Online (location doesn't matter).



2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! :-)


____I don't know yet

____Up to $25.

____Up to $50.

____Up to $100.

__X__Up to $200.

____Up to $300.

____Essentially unlimited.

I write "up to 200", because I do not want to eliminate your $105 lights of the world, but I suspect most candidates will be in the 50-120 range. We'll see though.




3) Format:*

____I am not sure, please help me decide.

__X__I want a flashlight (hand held/self contained).

____I want a self-contained headlamp.

____I want a headlamp with an external pack/power source.

____I want a mounted light (typically for a bicycle or vehicle)

____I want a lantern/area light.

____I want a portable spotlight (it may have an external power source).

____Other


*

4) Size:


____MICRO - Keychain size.

__X__TINY - Every day carry (2-4 inches).

__X__SMALL - Every day carry (4-7 inches).

____MEDIUM - Holster/belt ring carry. (>7 inches)

____LARGE - Big enough to need its own travel case.

____I don’t know/I don't care.

I really like the size of both the O-Light S20 and the Shiningbeam S-Mini. A quick comment about the ZL SC600: I don't like how the bezel diameter is larger than the body diameter. (Also, I don't like the side switch, but that is a later question.)*



5) Emitter/Light source:


__X__LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)

____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)

____HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)

____I don't know.




6) Manufacturer:

____I want to buy a light from a large/traditional manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.

____I would like a light from a specialty manufacturer (Possibly limited run/Custom).

____I am interested in assembling my own components. (for example a “host” or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a “drop-in” emitter from another source).

I only have lights from the first category but am open-minded.




7) What power source do you want to use?

____I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Alkaline batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.

____I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Lithium batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D and CR123 sized cells common to most stores (often a cold weather or long storage choice).

*__X__I intend to use Rechargeable cells (NiMH or NiCD) based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.

__X__I intend to use Rechargeable cells based on less common formats (18500 or 18650 Li-Ion, RCR123, et-al).

____I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery pack.

____I don't know/I need more information on power sources.

I'm open-minded here. I have some 18650's and some AA and AAA Eneloops, so utilizing those is my first choice, but I don't consider that limiting.



7a) If you have selected a rechargeable option

____I want a light that plugs directly into the wall (literally with prongs built into the light)

____I want a light that has a recharging adapter (your typical "wall wart")

____I want a light that snaps into a cradle (usually mounted on a wall)

__X__I want a separate/stand-alone charger (this involves removing the batteries to charge)

____I don't care




8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need?* Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is not a happy experience).


__X__I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (1-10 lumens).

____I want an indoor "blackout" light (15-50 lumens)

__X__I want to confidently walk around an unlit/unpaved rural area (60-150 lumens).

____I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).

__X__I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).

____I want search and rescue type illumination (800+ lumens).

__X__SPECIAL NOTE: Burst/Turbo mode Category - There are several lights that will run at a super bright maximum for a very limited period (usually 5-10 minutes) and then will "step-down" to a lower level for thermal control.* Check here if this is acceptable.

Optimal spacing: 0.25/5/40/120/500. I can do without the 40 (or the 5 and 40 could be combined to a 20), but it is mandatory to have moonlight (sub-lumen), low, and high.



9) Flood vs Throw: Flood covers an area, Throw reaches out to a distance.


____All Flood: I am doing "arms length" tasks like reading and campsite cooking.

____Wide Flood: I want a defined flood area for semi-close tasks like after-dark campsite tasks or working on a car.

__X__Narrow Flood: I want a sharply defined flood area that will project some distance for tasks like trail walking.

__X__Wide Throw: I want a beam with a noticeable hot-center for distance throw and a significant amount of "side-spill".* Good for rough trail hiking, search and rescue, and general distance work.

____Narrow Throw: I want a beam with a very tight "hot center" and minimal "side-spill".* Good for distance viewing, fog, and looking through dense undergrowth.

____Turbohead: I want a far-distance projector with a sharply focused spot of light and minimal or zero side-spill.* Good for extreme distance and impressing your friends.



9a) Distance:* How far away will you typically need to see with this light (check all that apply)

__X__Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)

__X__Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)

__X__5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)

__X__30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)

____50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)

____150+ yards (I am searching from a helicopter)




10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum continuous output).*

__X__Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest* light for brief periods)

__X__30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)

____90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)

____3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).




11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase “you get what you pay for” is very accurate for flashlights.

____Not Important (A “night-stand” light).

____Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).

__X__Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).

____Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).

____I don’t know.




12) Switch Size, Type, and location (choose all that apply):


____Any size switch will do.

____I need a BIG switch (I'll be using gloves or have very large hands or coordination issues).

____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).

__X__I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).

____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).

____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).

____I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).

__X__I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today’s high end lights).

____I want a remote switch (usually found on high-end bicycle headlights)

____I don't care.

____I don’t know.

____Other, please specify____________________.

I love the momentary on capability of forward clickies, but the simple mode switching of reverse clickies is more important. I like how I do not have to worry about accidental activation with twisties but accidental activation isn't a huge problem with clickies either. And I love how an electronic side switch can make modes more available, but the deal killer there is requiring a tail lockout quarter turn to ensure no accidental activation.



13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.


____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.

____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)

__X__I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)

__X__I want a programmable light.

__X__I want a selector ring.

____I want a strobe mode. (Oscillating pattern to confuse/blind aka "Police Mode")

__X__I want SOS mode. (blinks in ---...--- emergency pattern)

__X__I want a beacon mode. (Regular flashes at full power to show location.)

____I don’t care.

____I don’t know.

My optimal UI: reverse twisty with 3-level head selector. Completely tight is turbo (500+ lumens). Slightly loose is low/med/high with memory, with lumens of 5/40/120. More loose is moonlight level (with memory), with low moonlight and high moonlight, and levels of maybe .05/.25.

Basically I want a 3-in-1, with moonlight, "regular", and turbo/tactical/survival.

I think it would be nice to have SOS and beacon modes, and I don't really care where they are as long as they are hidden. Maybe behind the turbo mode, and have no memory for them? It is not a deal killer if either or both is missing.




14)Material/Finish/Coating


____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).

__X__Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today’s higher end flashlights).

____Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)

____Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).

____I don’t care.

____I don’t know.

____Other, please specify____________.




15) Water resistance

____None needed

____IPX4 (Splash resistant)

__X__IPX7 (Waterproof to 1 meter/30min)

__X__IPX8 (Submersible to greater than 1 meter for 4 hours)

IPX8 is preferred but IPX7 is acceptable.



16) Storage conditions

__X__In house (temperature/climate controlled environment)

____Emergency kit (long standby periods)

____Automobile glove-box (wide temperature swings, long standby periods, critical reliability)

____Other_____________________________________________



17) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any/all below.


____Red filter (for preserving night vision).

____Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________).

____Dedicated R/G/B secondary LEDs.

____“Hybrid” light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)

____Pocket/belt clip

____Holster

____Wrist/Neck Lanyard

____Crenulated bezel

____Non-sparking, Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environments

The only other things I can think of is that I want it to tail stand, and I want either a low battery indicator or a battery level indicator.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My suggestions (not perfect matches, but pretty close to what you want) would be the HDS EDC ... if you can accept 200 lumen max .... Or ArmyTek Predator ... if you are flexible enough to allow for the larger size.
 
Closest match that comes to mind is a Peak Logan 17500 with optic and momentary switch. It doesn't have any special blinking modes, though.

The HDS is, as always, a great choice, and there is even a model with an excellent rotary control.

The Predator is a fantastic light.

None of these is a reverse clicky, though.
 
Reverse clicky is not as important as having sub-lumen moonlight, well-spaced but accessible modes, no accidental on, and roughly the same size (or smaller) than S-Mini.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change.
Similar in size to the Shiningbeam S-Mini is the Convoy S2
2 groups 3/5 modes with and without blinkies.
5% low 40% mid, and 100% high with an XML with your choice of tint.
It can be purchased driven at different levels, but the percentages don't change, so if you choose a 1000 ma driver, the low will be driven at 50 ma, if you choose a 2800 ma driver, you'll have a higher high, but your low will also be higher.

I opted for mine to be driven at 1400 ma, I calculate the low to be about 35 lumens with about a 40 hour runtime.

cost less than $15 at fasttech
 
Foursevens Quark Pro 2AA XML-2 (QP2A-X), run on an optional battery tube of your choice 1xAA (14500, CRAA), 1xCR123 (CR123, 16340) or 2xCR123 (16650 or 17650), or the stock tube with Eneloops, meets most of the requirements. 420+ lumens (according to Selfbuilt) on any of the cells listed above.
 
I have and HDS rotary 200 and a Armytek predator both great lights. The HDS is by far the best EDC I have ever owned. I use the predator for hunting and outdoor activities.
 
JetBeam RRT-21: 18650 or 2X CR123a (or even 2X 18650 with extenders). Forward clicky (reverse clicky not needed here), control ring. The control ring will give you strobe mode then a detent then continuous ramping from very low, about 0.5 lumens, to about 600 lumens if you get the XM-L version. Quickly rock the control ring side to side for SOS. Will tail stand. No beacon mode.

JetBeam RRT-01: 18350 or CR123a. Control ring only. No strobe mode. Rocking the control ring from side to side gives you SOS. Will tail stand. On a Li-Ion the control ring will give you a moonlight mode so low you'll be able to look at details on the emitter die clearly with night adapted eyes all the way to 600+ lumens. This is a floody light, though, with a large hotspot. No beacon mode.

You're really asking for a lot from one light. For everything you've listed your requirements for I've got two or three lights to suit those purposes. As far as I can tell, only a few of the Quarks have beacon modes. I'm sure there are others.
 
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