another Mag Mod question/call for help

[BugLightGeek]

So, I've been drooling over the awesome Mag Mods I've seen on here for a while. I managed to snag a Space Needle II from THE MAN /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gif that I have cherished and hardly used /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif

I want to try my hand at building my own. I'm nervous about it already. I want to explore the various options on here with you guys to get your opinions and recommendations for what to do.

Here are the choices that seem to be the most popular on here. I am leaning toward either a 2 or 3 cell and nothing larger.

Mag Mod Body options:
2C -> 3 123's, does this require resistance? If so, how much?
2D -> 3 C's, does this require resistance? If so, how much?
2D -> 2 D's, will this even work?
2D -> 6 NiMH AA's, does this require resistance? If so, how much?
3C -> 3 C's, does this require resistance? If so, how much?
3D -> 3 D's, does this require resistance? If so, how much?

Other Questions:
What is an eCan and do I need one?

Will I need either a Downboy or Badboy?
If so, which one and for which body option?

Do any of the above options require resistance to protect the LED?
This is assuming I'll be using a TXOK.

I'm thinking I need the emitter only, but how do I remove it from the star heatsink?

Arctic silver thermal grease
Arctic alumina epoxy
What are these for and which one do I need?

How, or WHO can add glow powder around emitter if I'm using a Yaesumofo O-sink?

Allen/hex wrench for disassembling Mag, what size?

Parts List:
Maglite (duh) $ 20
appropriate batteries $ 5
52.1mm UCL lens $ 10
3W TX0K LS LED $ 15
O-sink or hotlips heatsink $ 11
Arctic Silver Thermal Grease $ 5
Allen/hex wrench $ 5
SubTotal $ 71

Is that it? Am I missing something? I already bookmarked the "Mag Mod Cookbook"
Any help and/or funds /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif you guys can provide would be most appreciated.

 

[Wolfen]

Buglightgeek asks:

Mag Mod Body options:
2C -> 3 123's, does this require resistance? Not with a 5 watt LED2D -> 3 C's, does this require resistance? NO (LuxIII)
2D -> 2 D's, will this even work? with a Badboy converter board
2D -> 6 NiMH AA's, does this require resistance? If so, how much? No (5 watt) Yes Lux III
3C -> 3 C's, does this require resistance? No (Lux III)
3D -> 3 D's, does this require resistance? No (LuxIII)

I like direct driving a Luxeon III off three C or D batteries. Very easy, no electronics to mess with. Super easy to do even if you have poor soldering skills like me. I buy the emitters only from Wayne's Shoppe. That's were I get the Artic Alumina thermal adhesive. I bought 30 gauge wire from Radio Shack. MY favorite is a three C cell Lux III /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Good luck!

 

[ZuluWhiskeyFox]

I put together a 3D direct drive. (no resistor) TWOK on a Hotlips. Sputtered reflector from DarkZero. I believe the allen key size is 2mm. Very simple very bright, very happy.

Allen key size is 2mm or 5/64". Both of mine mic out to .0775"

 

[bwaites]

2mm might work, but it is standard sized, not metric, if I recall correctly.

Bill

 

[andrewwynn]

thin is in.. go for C size... use a driver, they aren't that expensive... my favorite part of my LED lights is constant brightness... when it's dead it just shuts off completely... if i need more light i wait 5 min for it to recover and if i turn down the brightness.. i can have another hour of light easy.

get the 8-level nFlex figure out which batt config will work. Use a reflector vs optics... maybe be the first to build the PR bulb i designed by the suggestion of mobile1.. 12W PR LED bulb is the post title i think.

-awr

 

[BugLightGeek]

[ QUOTE ]
Wolfen said:
Buglightgeek asks:

Mag Mod Body options:
2C -> 3 123's, does this require resistance? Not with a 5 watt LED2D -> 3 C's, does this require resistance? NO (LuxIII)
2D -> 2 D's, will this even work? with a Badboy converter board
2D -> 6 NiMH AA's, does this require resistance? If so, how much? No (5 watt) Yes Lux III
3C -> 3 C's, does this require resistance? No (Lux III)
3D -> 3 D's, does this require resistance? No (LuxIII)

I like direct driving a Luxeon III off three C or D batteries. Very easy, no electronics to mess with. Super easy to do even if you have poor soldering skills like me. I buy the emitters only from Wayne's Shoppe. That's were I get the Artic Alumina thermal adhesive. I bought 30 gauge wire from Radio Shack. MY favorite is a three C cell Lux III /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Good luck!

[/ QUOTE ]

So, out of the various body configuration options, which one (Driver vs no Driver) would be the brightest?

If I had the skills, I'd love to make a 2D size with different luxeon dropins that would accept 2D's, 3C's, 3 123's AND 6 AA's.

 

[KevinL]

Actually, all you need is one Luxeon hardwired to the switch. Your control circuitry can be on a modular battery pack, as was the INTENT (note: intent) with the 4000-M. After several screwups with the soldering iron, plus the fact I'm feeling decidedly under the weather, I gave up. One battpack is good enough, resistor ended up in the head. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif I'm not a pro modder by any means, I just tinker and try to implement my ideas, usually not very successfully. Got more ideas than skills /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

The 1W Lux Lantern has had more success with multiple packs. For example, the NiMH pack has 8.2 ohm of resistance on it, but you can substitute the resistor for whatever driver/resistor/nothing that you want. The 123 pack has nothing, but is only meant to be used with depleted cells.

The disadvantage to putting the control circuitry with the batteries is that it takes up space. For your configuration, 3C may be possible (pushing the limits), 3x123 might be, 6AA and 2D probably not because there's not enough space. Normally we put the resistor/driver in the head of the light up there with the Hotlips, but if you want modularity, some sacrifices have to be made.

6 NiMH + TX0K = *boom* (no more LED) unless you have a mad huge resistor. Same with 3x123, except that you create a bigger boom. Those two configs are better suited to driving 5W Luxeons.

3 x 1.5V (D or C) in direct drive (no resistor) will be the easiest and the brightest. You of course take the risk of frying your LED if you drop NiMHs in.

 

[cgpeanut]

BugLightGeek,

I think the E-Can is used to house a BB/MM circuit underneath the o-sink/hotlips I have ordered this and will verify as soon as it arrives.

I've added green glow powder on the o-sinks I have, to do this you have to get the 90min clear epoxy, mix as much glow powder as you can to the two part epoxy, apply it around the pedestal of the o-sink not the luxeon that's the arc-ls version /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB14&Number=435581&PHPSESSID=&fpart=1#Post435581

 

[BugLightGeek]

cgpeanut - Have you gotten in the E-can yet?
Any progress to report?

And, if I sent you the o-sink, could you glow powder mine? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif

 

[cgpeanut]

BugLightGeek,

Yes I did and did a 2D mag mod using a badboy, TXOJ@519mA nice will post pics soon, I used the ECan like this

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB14&Number=581485&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=&vc=1

I did originally planned on building a mag mod based on a 4D mag with TXOJ@519mA but decided not to because IMHO the badboy would just act as a glorified resistor.. A downboy 700mA might be better mod but the sammich shop is out of stock as of today /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[BugLightGeek]

I'd definately love to see photos.
So, did you build yours with other LED's you could just drop in? I'd love to have a drop in that would not only allow me to build it with different colored LED's, but that would accept different battery configurations:
2D -> 2D
2D -> 3C
2D -> 6AA
2D -> 3 123's

But, I'm certain that's more than this newbie modder can do /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[cgpeanut]

Well, I built mine with a 4-pin power Dean connector used in r/c's

This will allow me to swap the entire o-sink module with a different colored/bin lux3 if I want to, and since the badboy is incorporated in the o-sink I could swap it with a 4D/3D mag /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I did not use 2 part artic alumina around the the base of the o-sink just for this reason /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif but did so on the luxeon that way I can ensure proper thermal path from the txoj->o-sink->mag tube->mag head. IMHO it's not wise to unsolder luxeons to many times remember the heat from the soldering iron goes straight to the terminals of that led and heat is the number one enemy of the lux and besides once you use the 2-part AA it's permanent.

.