Anyone reviewed the Maratac Titanium AAA Rev 5 flashlight yet?

[jon_slider]

Received Titanium AAA Maratac w XP-G3 LED

Using a fully charged Eneloop, lumen levels on my meter are MLH, 30-3-114…

The knurling is very rough feeling, or "grippy". The light is not shiny nor smooth, it has a matte appearance and the tool marks have not been polished out.

The threads are predictably gritty, as with other titanium lights.

The Maratac head Legos with the Tool.

(Tool LED was changed from XP-G3 to High CRI)

I find the Ti Maratac tends to advance/skip modes inconsistently. I changed the O ring because I felt there is too much head wobble, but it did not make a difference. I also tried the O ring from the Copper Tool, did not help the TiMaratac, it still skips modes. I have contacted the seller to authorize a return for refund.

My guess is the Ti head has a slightly larger inner diameter in the unthreaded area that rides on the O ring, than my Copper Maratacs, which do not tend to skip modes.

If I had to pick, I would choose the copper Maratac over the Ti Maratac… I like the copper better because of the smooth threads, and polished crowns of the knurling. The Copper version feels smoother in hand, smoother in operation, and changes modes more reliably.

I like the CuTool from drop.com even better than the CuMaratac. I prefer the keyring attachment point on the Tool over the Maratac. I prefer the switch option on the Tool, it eliminates mode skipping that happens with twisties that have loose oring tolerances.

Copper Tool, Copper Maratac, and Ti Maratac, all use the same reversible pocket clip, just different colors.

I did a runtime test on High w Eneloop aaa
the Ti Maratac started at 114 lumens
after 10 minutes it was making 95 lumens
after 20 minutes it was making 98 lumens
after 30 minutes it was making 83 lumens
after 33 minutes it was making 55 lumens (ended test, battery was at 1.03v)

essentially the light runs on high mode regulated at just under 100 lumens for about 20 minutes and then drops out of regulation and declines rapidly after 30 minutes.

The Ti Maratac runtime and output levels are very similar to the Copper Tool w eSwitch from drop, and the CuTool w mechanical switch from Lumintop (non tailstanding). The main difference is Maratacs and Lumintop Tools are MLH and dropTools are LMH.

 

[nzoomed]

OK, thats very interesting to learn about CRI and colour temp.
I always thought both went hand in hand, as I naturally assumed a warmer light would have had higher levels of red output to make it warmer.

Interesting to see your test results with both those lights.

How does runtime compare on the low and medium brightness modes?

 

[jon_slider]

... I naturally assumed a warmer light would have had higher levels of red output to make it warmer.
...
How does runtime compare on the low and medium brightness modes?

I think there is a common misunderstanding to think Neutral White LEDs are going to have better color rendering. they dont, unless they are specifically High CRI. Ive seen some rather disgusting NW lights, they are very yellow, but they dont make red pop, they make red look brown and dull.

I have no plans to test medium and low runtimes on the Maratac.
The light is in the mail back to the seller. They were helpful and cooperative about the return.

Merry New Year!

 

[nzoomed]

I think there is a common misunderstanding to think Neutral White LEDs are going to have better color rendering. they dont, unless they are specifically High CRI. Ive seen some rather disgusting NW lights, they are very yellow, but they dont make red pop, they make red look brown and dull.

I have no plans to test medium and low runtimes on the Maratac.
The light is in the mail back to the seller. They were helpful and cooperative about the return.

Merry New Year!

Thanks for reviewing the maratac anyway, I know to stay clear of it.
I will grab a thrunite anyway and try it out for its price. For my application, battery life is more important than CRI anyway, but obviously its beneficial. I certainly love the Nichia 219C
No doubt we will see huge improvements with battery capacity and LED efficiency in the years to come.

 

[jon_slider]

For my application, battery life is more important than CRI

efficiency favors lower lumen outputs
you can have quality (High CRI), and still have sufficient runtime, IF you can control how low the output goes.

One light with a programmable low mode, that comes in High CRI and is very efficient, is the Manker E02. Imo it is a better choice than the Thrunite..

do some searches, there are reviews with runtimes that I think are impressive.. and the light is on sale for even less than the Thrunite..

I can never recommend a Low CRI light for any reason, when there is a perfectly adequate (and imo superior) option with High CRI.. but, thats just me.. Go with whatever makes you smile.

 

[nzoomed]

efficiency favors lower lumen outputs
you can have quality (High CRI), and still have sufficient runtime, IF you can control how low the output goes.

One light with a programmable low mode, that comes in High CRI and is very efficient, is the Manker E02. Imo it is a better choice than the Thrunite..

do some searches, there are reviews with runtimes that I think are impressive.. and the light is on sale for even less than the Thrunite..

I can never recommend a Low CRI light for any reason, when there is a perfectly adequate (and imo superior) option with High CRI.. but, thats just me.. Go with whatever makes you smile.

OK, the way I took what you said when "most LEDs that are efficient in brightness, are low cri" that it meant that such LED's would give you more battery life for given amount of lumens per watt.

Might look into the manker, I think what put it off for me was it was a right angled light and cant fit a diffuser easily.

 

[jon_slider]

OK, the way I took what you said when "most LEDs that are efficient in brightness, are low cri" that it meant that such LED's would give you more battery life for given amount of lumens per watt.

Might look into the manker, I think what put it off for me was it was a right angled light and cant fit a diffuser easily.

low CRI LEDS dont give more battery life, they only give more lumens

generally speaking, efficiency tends to be expressed as higher lumens, for x runtime
high CRI will express as fewer lumens (as much as 40% less), but still for the same x runtime

so on a low mode, as an example from a Tool on Low, the cool white will run x minutes at 5 lumens, while the high cri will run for the same x minutes, but at 3 lumens...

in practical terms, since the runtime remains constant, the comparison is only between the lumen levels.. that is to say, 30% less CRI gets you 30% more lumens, or vice versa, with no change in runtime

the circuit still uses the same amount of power, different LEDs simply convert that power more or less efficiently, to lumens, or cri

hope that helps

as to diffusers, they are not for me, because I am sensitive to light aimed directly into my line of sight.

I always use lights that do not shine in my eyes. a 90 degree light is very versatile in this regard, since it can be aimed easily around an arc, to bounce light...

 

[nitebrite]

Please do not start an argument here. This is solely my feeling. They are very nice lights indeed. I dislike that he is dishonest. He continues to say made in USA. Since he thinks China might somehow hurt his sales. Why not buy from proud Chinese folks? You know they are human beings too! In fact, they make this very light! Nothing wrong with Chinese IMO. They are often producing quality goods at fair prices today. I would just rather pick a brand of honesty. Lying is one thing that does not sit cool with me, Especially as a business model. There are so many other similar lights you could choose. That is entirely my opinion and I should be entitled to it. However there is absolutely no reason to let this escalate into a "war" here. It is factual what he remarks. It is factual it is not true. I personally don't like it. That is all. Please be civil.

 

[nzoomed]

low CRI LEDS dont give more battery life, they only give more lumens

generally speaking, efficiency tends to be expressed as higher lumens, for x runtime
high CRI will express as fewer lumens (as much as 40% less), but still for the same x runtime

so on a low mode, as an example from a Tool on Low, the cool white will run x minutes at 5 lumens, while the high cri will run for the same x minutes, but at 3 lumens...

in practical terms, since the runtime remains constant, the comparison is only between the lumen levels.. that is to say, 30% less CRI gets you 30% more lumens, or vice versa, with no change in runtime

the circuit still uses the same amount of power, different LEDs simply convert that power more or less efficiently, to lumens, or cri

hope that helps

as to diffusers, they are not for me, because I am sensitive to light aimed directly into my line of sight.

I always use lights that do not shine in my eyes. a 90 degree light is very versatile in this regard, since it can be aimed easily around an arc, to bounce light...

OK, that makes sense.
I guess what I had in mind was that if I found a (lower CRI) light at a lower output at a comparable brightness mode, I could in theory extend the running time. e.g run the cool white at 3 lumens instead of 5, I was assuming that would give me a bit longer runtime, compared to the high CRI still running at 3 lumens. I guess that could be a good advantage with the manker in that regard, as I can make a pre set mode to suit rather than find a light with the desired mode.

Yes I do agree what you mean about diffusers, I guess Im just used to it since ive only recently looked for a lightweight alternative to a butane powered lantern in my pack! lol
I do a bit of hiking over summer and am in the process of converting alot of my gear to ultralite to save space and weight in my pack. Typically Im really just needing to illuminate the inside of a small hut or tent at night.

Please do not start an argument here. This is solely my feeling. They are very nice lights indeed. I dislike that he is dishonest. He continues to say made in USA. Since he thinks China might somehow hurt his sales. Why not buy from proud Chinese folks? You know they are human beings too! In fact, they make this very light! Nothing wrong with Chinese IMO. They are often producing quality goods at fair prices today. I would just rather pick a brand of honesty. Lying is one thing that does not sit cool with me, Especially as a business model. There are so many other similar lights you could choose. That is entirely my opinion and I should be entitled to it. However there is absolutely no reason to let this escalate into a "war" here. It is factual what he remarks. It is factual it is not true. I personally don't like it. That is all. Please be civil.

Im not trying to enter any argument.
I was just politely asking questions about LED efficiency with CRI which it appears he knows plenty about.
Many decent chinese lights out there, Thrunite, Lumintop and Nitecore are all good and well respected brands.

I dont care what product I buy as long as its good quality and suits my needs.

 

[nitebrite]

100% agree! even Maratac! See, Good quality and honesty are two completely different things. good quality is A+ in my book. dishonest turns me off a bit. I would still buy Maratac, just ignore him. I have no idea why he has to say that. Chinese is very often A+ quality today. I am not suggesting to boycott him or anything. I am just baffled as to why he does that. Lying is not pretty IMO. Otherwise it is a fine light. Only one thing though. I feel after time the copper gets filthy in your pocket. That is just a nit pick though. I will even go so far as to say some of these Chinese lights are closing the gap on customs almost. Give them a few more years. I am not sure what is better about it either. A 219C is a 219C. Maybe he improved the electronics?

If you can go a tad bigger the thrunite TTOT V2 Custom NW is nearly muyshondt quality for $40 IMO. On a 14500 pushing almost 1,000 lumens! This, I know many would argue but owning multiples of both I feel I can safely speak on the subject. Of course I will keep my muyshondt's but the Thrunite is closing the gap quickly. IMO it is a much nicer light than Maratac. We are not talking huge here. You might want to check it out. BTW, the new ones, the clip screws on. which is very rare on a $40 light. about only thing it does not have is a sapphire lens but it is solid billet titanium. there are $1,300 lights that have mineral lenses too so I am not so concerned about that. I am just trying to give you another choice. It is my #1 inexpensive small light. About the only thing is if you mind the side button. although it is recessed and takes pressure so will not turn on in the pocket. It even comes with an extra button! CRI is about same as 219C bit 219B is better. If it does not suit you the point is moot though.

 

[nitebrite]

Found out a bit for you. I think the big deal about rev. 5 is the titanium. It has a XP-G. However XP-L is the better emitter. It hardly matters on 1xaaa. Those are the main differences.
As an enthusiast what I want(and have) are copper with Nichia 219B. At some point we are so past Lumens. Plus 130-180 is hardly a jump. Furthermore on a ultimate lithium the 219B will hit 170-ish. It is by far the highest CRI.
I am going to take back what I had said. Under law he is correct unfortunately. If he so much as inspects them in the USA they count as made in USA. Stupid laws. So he has the right to say so but I personally would not.
Two things I do not like. Lasered writing, stick on clip still. Fix those and it is a gem. Actually just forgo the clip for a large key clip IMO. Overall all Maratac are great lights but the one you really want IMO is the copper 219B.
Don't be so hung up on titanium. It is nothing special in a sub $40 light. Even in a $2,000 light it may be some other metal but probably Damascus then. Honestly though copper is a grail of sorts too due to it's heatsinking property and great threading.
You may find that the TI does thread as well on a $40 light. Not sure. Anyways I am not getting it solely due to the XP-G. the Nichia 219B is a far better Emitter. The 219C is more efficient which hardly maters here but the 219B is higher CRI. I hope this helps you!

 

[County]

Hello!
I've had a hard time finding info on how the mode-memory UI works for this light. Anyone in possession of the light willing to share those details ? Thank you!

 

[jon_slider]

mode-memory

mine had no mode memory

check your private messages for more details

 

[County]

Got it, thanks! Apparently I'd stumbled on misinformation, thanks for taking the time to clarify. I will be taking possession of this light tomorrow and am looking forward to it. For my use-case, no mode memory is preferable.

 

[jon_slider]

Congratulations on your new light

I hope you enjoy it.

Please post your impressions.

 

[County]

Received my Maratac Ti AAA Rev 5 and it actually does have mode-memory. It's as simple as the last mode you left it in will be the startup mode next time you turn it on. Quick on/off cycles you through the medium low high modes of course. Even though I really didn't want mode memory and preferred 'start on medium' , I like the light a lot and plan to keep it. It is throwier than I expected with a tighter beam than my Aluminium AAA Maratac Rev 5 I purchased in 2018.

 

[jon_slider]

Received my Maratac Ti AAA Rev 5 and it actually does have mode-memory.

thanks for the update
I did not know about the addition of mode memory to the Maratac, until now

this version of the Lumintop Black Tool w Osram LED and Tir lens, recently also came out with a mode memory feature. And AA Tools have memory now too.

 

[County]

As an update on user-experience with this light. . after some additional time and use I'm finding myself frustrated with the UI. There is too much mode-jitter when turning it on or off. It jumps too quickly between modes in the milliseconds it takes to you do a one- handed on or off, so with the mode-memory it's a guessing game on what mode you will get as the mode you thought it was in when you turned it off is often not the mode you are presented with when turning it back on later. Or did it mode-bounce so quickly again on activation? Hard to know. This unpredictable behavior has me no longer a fan of the light. It's somewhat better when you can do a two handed authoritative on/off in a swift action, but that is not my preferred use-case. This will not be my EDC as a result. Perhaps I just got a bad light. I'd be interested in hearing if others are experiencing the same.

 

[jon_slider]

...I'm finding myself frustrated with the UI. There is too much mode-jitter when turning it on or off. It jumps too quickly between modes

I returned mine for refund because the mode switching was unreliable. I tried everything I know about fixing mode skipping in a twisty, but none of it worked.

1. I made sure there was no excess lubricant. I wiped off the threads and inside of the head. No win.

2. I replaced the O ring with a thicker one. No win.

This was the only maratac I have owned that was unreliable in mode switching. I do not know why.

My guess is that the head of this Ti model wobbles more than my copper maratacs. Maybe they did that to try and make the threads less gritty on the Ti. Instead I speculate that the extra wobble causes the unreliable mode skipping.

 

[County]

Ok thanks Jon.
I love the beam, the color temp, and the modes themselves all have a use. I do still like County-Comm and my older lights. But let's hope for a fix in a Rev-VI, eh !? I'll gladly give it another try then.