Aspheric lens, 3 emmiter setup or combined?

1fast05

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Sep 21, 2011
Messages
1
Hello all, I am in the process of designing my dive light. I have a couple questions though that I couldn't find a definite answer for. I mainly dive lakes and quarry's that have a fair amount of silt depending on the weather. I would like to build a can light as my next dive light but am having a hard time deciding what to do. I like the focus of an aspheric to cut through the muck but would also like at least a little spill for wrecks clearer water.

I am wondering what you guys think would do the job best. I was thinking about doing a hybrid with a single aspheric using http://www.dealextreme.com/p/xmlawt-1000-lumen-led-emitter-white-light-bulb-3-0-3-5v-51989 and then 4 more with reflectors for flood similar to what H20doc did with his light but having both on separate switches or different modes on a single switch. Other options would be a single aspheric or a 3 emitter setup using http://cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut1100 with their reflector.

I am still working on what driver to use but I am open to suggestions. Any help would be welcome.
 

lucca brassi

Enlightened
Joined
Feb 1, 2008
Messages
889
Location
US
Depends of battery pack you will use.... I think the best way is the simpliest ( for start and building frst light for sure ) .... I'll take SST-90 with aspherics lens 44mm from DX and some good driver . Advantage is powerfull light which have concentraed beam to 5 m in square 0,64 m x 0,64m and then spread wider .

Don't know what type of housing you will use ..mod some light or made your own. Moding some light is much more simple and a lot cheaper than bulding it from sketch. In last case I'll take something simillar to MB SUB X1 VB but instead of zoom lens I'll put aspherics lens and front glass on fine long thread for sealing ( from flood to throw you have to screw unscrew only few milimeters ) with double Oring barrier on end , same type switch (I like it very much) maybe hall sensor instead reed switch inside but just to lower power from full to some 50-30%,main switch is still on canister (close to power source as possible) . Cooling direct under led with water .... in that way
 
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