Bit the bullet, Eagletacs have arrived

[gallonoffuel]

With the opening of the Eagletac store by 4sevens, I decided to order a pair of their 1-cell lights. I got the P10C and T10C coming. They look nice on the website, although I could see me breaking that clip off in no time, and it looks harder to replace than the one on my Nitecore Extreme (broke that one in about 2 weeks). I've just been fed up with my NEI changing modes when I didn't want it to. It could be user error, but the Fenix/Eagletac mode changes seems less likely to screw up although I'm losing the ability to set my own low mode. My T1 mode changes are ideal. I think the issue with the NEI is intermittent contact on the high mode, so all of a sudden it starts strobing or going into user mode. Regardless, I'm trying these new ones.

I'll report my findings when they show up. I'm also interested in seeing if any of my strike bezel rings fit the T10 or P10. I have about 3 rings of different sizes I plan on trying. If they don't, no big deal, but it would be a bonus. I know there are mixed feelings on CPF about their business practices, but the lights seem to be well made and frankly, that's my ultimate concern. I'll wind up keeping one of them, and giving the other as a gift to my buddy who lost his E2D.

Who's got input?

 

[jimmy1970]

Re: Bit the bullet, Eagletacs on their way

I agree, they are a great looking light. Be interesting see the performance outcomes of the units you have ordered. Pretty impressive stats.:thumbsup:

jr/

 

[gallonoffuel]

Re: Bit the bullet, Eagletacs on their way

Got them today. First impressions: Nice build, easy UI, plenty bright. The T10C is a little green in the tint department. P10C was whiter, closer to my Nitecore. Neither strike bezel I have fits either light. Here's a size comparison picture:

 

[gallonoffuel]

A few more notes. Neither light is Surefire E-series compatible, which i didn't expect them to be, but gave it a shot anyway. The beam shapes are acceptably smooth, both lights some with OP reflectors. The high mode on each one is plenty bright. The T10C has a slightly larger beam shape than the P10C due to the larger reflector. As I said earlier, the T10C has a noticably greener tint. I'm not sure if they are all light that or not. I'm gonna carry the P10C on a regular basis. I'd love to find a crenulated bezel for it though. I just like the way they look and function. I've never had an 'EDC Rotation' but now that I have 3 nice single-cell lights, i might start doing that.

Anyone need me to test something or take pictures or measurements of anything on these lights? What is slightly odd is that none of the parts between these lights are compatible at all. It's like each one was designed from the ground up completely seperate. In other words, the T10C is not a P10C with a larger head and a scalloped switch bezel.

 

[highseas]

Looking good. I was just checking out their lights last night. Have you played with them much yet? Some pictures of how they perform outdoors would be great--maybe shots of them in the backyard or something.

 

[gallonoffuel]

I'll bring them along to the range tomorrow. I'll get some shots at the outdoor pistol range or maybe one of the pits.

 

[cheetokhan]

Got mine too

Just got my T10C out of the mailbox.
I did a quick comparison to my Jetbeam II IBS in the back yard. The overall light output looks pretty close, but the Jetbeam has a tighter focus with a brighter hotspot. The T10C has a wider overall beam, is much smoother (no rings whatsoever), and has a very slightly greener tint than my Jet II IBS.
Either light by itself looks white, but side by side, the Jet has a slightly harsher, bluish tint, and the T10C has a slightly greener, more natural looking tint. Grass looks more natural under the T10C light.
I really like the beam from the T10C.
The T10C seems to be well built and I like the fact that it can tailstand, but it's going to take a while to get used to the crenelations around the tailswitch. The switch is pretty stiff and I have a hard time pressing it with the crenelations in the way. I have the same problems with my Raidfire Spear.
I'm just getting spoiled by the piston drive on my Nitecore EX10GD To me, the Nitecore Piston Drive is the perfect switch; it's flat so it tailstands easily, has a very short stroke and just feels good.
Now, if I could mix the Nitecore switch, with the Jetbeam user interface, with the head from the T10C, I would have the perfect light

 

[gallonoffuel]

I agree with the switch complaint. Compared to my NEI, the Eagletac switches are a chore to press. The T10C is easier because you can hold it cigar style and get more leverage on the switch. I also wish the low mode was lower, but it's really ok given my usage of my EDCs.

The P10C will most likely be my new EDC, but I'd love to find someone to make me a crenulated bezel ring for it from aluminum or stainless. Then it will be everything I ever needed in a light. Small form factor, simple two-mode UI, nice build, bezel down clip, momentary switch... and a crenulated bezel.

 

[cheetokhan]

Ceiling bounce tests

Just did a ceiling bounce test comparing my Nitecore EX10GD with my Jetbeam Jet II IBS, and my EagleTac T10C. I used the same battery in each light and ran through the test twice.
EX10GD on high= 4.7 Lux @ 1.04A battery current.
Jet II IBS on high= 8.1 Lux @ 1.28A battery current.
EagleTac T10C on low= 2.9 Lux @ 180mA battery current.
EagleTac T10C on high= 12 Lux @ 1.8A battery current.


When I compared the three last night in the backyard, I could tell the EX10GD was not in the same league as the EagleTac and the Jetbeam, but I thought the Jetbeam and the EagleTac were pretty close to the same. I guess the tighter. brighter hotspot on the Jetbeam makes it seem brighter, but the bounce test shows the EagleTac putting out 1/3 more total light.

 

[Sgt. LED]

@1.8!

Hope the heatsinking is good. Anybody looked inside yet?

 

[f22shift]

@1.8!

Hope the heatsinking is good. Anybody looked inside yet?

i'm getting 2-2.2a on high with the 1aa. i'm guess it will not retain that for the full runtime.

the body(pd10) does get warm if you just tailstand it. the whole body. i'm guessing that's a good thing. maybe a better idea to hold it when on high..

 

[gallonoffuel]

I'm resisting temptation to take the head apart completely on either light. The head of the T10C looks to be built just like my T1. There appears to be quite a bit of heat sinking going on. The P10C is noticeably smaller but I still don't think it's an issue. I haven't left them running to see how hot they get.

 

[jirik_cz]

Re: Ceiling bounce tests

Just did a ceiling bounce test comparing my Nitecore EX10GD with my Jetbeam Jet II IBS, and my EagleTac T10C. I used the same battery in each light and ran through the test twice.
EX10GD on high= 4.7 Lux @ 1.04A battery current.
Jet II IBS on high= 8.1 Lux @ 1.28A battery current.
EagleTac T10C on low= 2.9 Lux @ 180mA battery current.
EagleTac T10C on high= 12 Lux @ 1.8A battery current.

Did you use CR123 or RCR123?

 

[cheetokhan]

Re: Ceiling bounce tests

3.0 Volt Ultralast primary cell. It's not brand new, but it should be fairly fresh. I have some RCR 123s on order. I'll test again when they get here.

 

[cheetokhan]

I'm resisting temptation to take the head apart completely on either light. The head of the T10C looks to be built just like my T1. There appears to be quite a bit of heat sinking going on. The P10C is noticeably smaller but I still don't think it's an issue. I haven't left them running to see how hot they get.

I removed the bezel, lens, o-ring, and reflector, but stopped there. The LED has one of those round insulators stuck down around it and I can see a mini phillips screw head under the insulator. It looks a lot different from any of my other lights. The LED appears to be set down inside a thick chunk of aluminum, not just glued on top a star.
I just don't feel like digging any deeper yet. I'll let someone else do that.

 

[I came to the light...]

@1.8!

Hope the heatsinking is good. Anybody looked inside yet?

I don't own one, but I've heard the heatsinking it excellent, producing no perceptible tint shift when switched to high. I don't know about high after 10 minutes though.

Even despite that, 1.8A worries me too. Sure, it's well designed, and produces great results, but driven at almost twice the "maximum" current?

 

[cheetokhan]

I don't own one, but I've heard the heatsinking it excellent, producing no perceptible tint shift when switched to high. I don't know about high after 10 minutes though.

Even despite that, 1.8A worries me too. Sure, it's well designed, and produces great results, but driven at almost twice the "maximum" current?

That's 1.8A battery current, not LED current.

 

[I came to the light...]

That's 1.8A battery current, not LED current.

but aren't the two fairly closely linked? (or am I completely mistaken? )

 

[cheetokhan]

I don't really know what EagleTac has between the battery and the LED, but I assume it's a Voltage step up converter. The battery voltage will be somewhere below 3 Volts loaded, and the LED will need more than 3 Volts.
The LED current must be somewhat lower than the battery current. How much lower depends on the drivers input/output ratio and the drivers efficiency.

Edit: I did a quick check with my West Mountain CBA II and found that my Ultralast battery voltage drops to 2.4 Volts with a 1.8 Amp load applied.

So, the power being delivered by the battery into the T10C is 2.4*1.8=4.32 Watts.
I'll make a a completely random guess that the driver is 80% efficient and that would mean the LED is dissipating about 3.5 Watts.
If the driver is only 70% efficient, the LED is dissipating about 3 Watts.

 

[The Sun]

first of all i love my T10C, i also have the T10C2 and its pretty sweet as well. the T10c2 put out noticeably more light than the T10C but not much more, just under a TK10.

i just left my T10C tailstanding on high for the entire battery life (AW RCR123) and it was warm, but not hot. much cooler than a Jet II Pro, or even a NEX. runtime was a little longer than stated on high just under an hour opposed to 45min. also mine has a very white beam, no green, no blue at all, and yes a perfectly flawless beam...i love it. i've been carrying it on my belt, with my EX10 around my neck at work and they play well together. the T10C will definitly light up a room. i just wish the runtime was better, but i guess you can't have everything (and crenellated bezel).

there is no increase in brightness between primary, and RCR just a little difference in runtime +1 for the primary, but i still use RCR's...just thought i would throw that out there. great light though:thumbsup: