BLASTERS HAVE ARRIVED !!
- Thread starter ElektroLumens
- Start date
ElektroLumens
Flashlight Enthusiast
Hey Wayne... I've got the same flickering problem here as well.
FWIW, changing the batteries seems to temporarily solve the problem. And when the flickering comes back, shaking the light slightly temporarily solves the problem.
The negative lead solder at the contact end of the LS itself isn't the problem, as it's well soldered. It's something else... Maybe the positive end battery contact inside the light...
BTW Wayne, was the positive lead contact supposed to be one of the 2 screws on the LS itself? If that was the case, I might beef up the solder around it a little bit for better contact...
FWIW, changing the batteries seems to temporarily solve the problem. And when the flickering comes back, shaking the light slightly temporarily solves the problem.
The negative lead solder at the contact end of the LS itself isn't the problem, as it's well soldered. It's something else... Maybe the positive end battery contact inside the light...
BTW Wayne, was the positive lead contact supposed to be one of the 2 screws on the LS itself? If that was the case, I might beef up the solder around it a little bit for better contact...
jmm
Newly Enlightened
My Blaster II also flickered on occasion. I noticed that when it started, putting sideways pressure on the tailcap seemed to help temporarily. The tailcap was screwed on as tight as could reasonably be expected. I noted that when I just started to loosen the tailcap, the light always flickered badly, and unscrewing it just a little more (like only about 1/16 of a turn) resulted in no light at all (it was functioning as a sort of "lockout" tailcap).
So, it appears that the anodizing on the threads is not allowing electrical continuity via that path, the bare machined surfaces on the tailcap and the rear of the body tube have to contact each other positively to do the job. While I was thinking about trying to take some of the anodizing off the threads with a "thread chaser", I decided to lube the O-Ring because it was making some noise during my repeated screwing and unscrewing.
I used some silicon lubricant on the tailcap O-Ring, and put a little on the threads too. THAT WAS THE LAST I HAVE SEEN OF THE FLICKERING PROBLEM (going on about four days now). The tailcap still does the "sort of lockout" thingie if unscrewed only slightly, so there's still no continuity through the threads, but the lubricant appeared to help the bare aluminum contact faces do their job more reliably.
The silicone I used was NOT of the condictive variety (I wonder if "conductive" Nyeogel 759G might work even better). My Blaster II isn't going back, no sir, there's too much stuff around here that has to be lit up.
John
So, it appears that the anodizing on the threads is not allowing electrical continuity via that path, the bare machined surfaces on the tailcap and the rear of the body tube have to contact each other positively to do the job. While I was thinking about trying to take some of the anodizing off the threads with a "thread chaser", I decided to lube the O-Ring because it was making some noise during my repeated screwing and unscrewing.
I used some silicon lubricant on the tailcap O-Ring, and put a little on the threads too. THAT WAS THE LAST I HAVE SEEN OF THE FLICKERING PROBLEM (going on about four days now). The tailcap still does the "sort of lockout" thingie if unscrewed only slightly, so there's still no continuity through the threads, but the lubricant appeared to help the bare aluminum contact faces do their job more reliably.
The silicone I used was NOT of the condictive variety (I wonder if "conductive" Nyeogel 759G might work even better). My Blaster II isn't going back, no sir, there's too much stuff around here that has to be lit up.
John
I recieved my Blaster II over the weekend and I have noticed a destinct problem. . . . . . .with my other Luxeon flashlights. I believe they aren't operating properly. For some reason, they aren't nearly as bright as the Blaster II!
My response:
Dang.
DANG.
DANG!!
Very bright!!! Impresively bright!!! If you don't own one, and don't want to spend the money on up coming 5 watt flashlights that will soon be up for sale, then get one of these, and you'll be completely happy for the rest of your days.
Although I won't necessarily guarantee that.
Very well done! I put a 'battery tube', of sorts, to take care of the battery rattle and will do some long run tests to see if I have any flickering problems. I've not noticed anything thus far. Excellent light, Wayne!!
My response:
Dang.
DANG.
DANG!!
Very bright!!! Impresively bright!!! If you don't own one, and don't want to spend the money on up coming 5 watt flashlights that will soon be up for sale, then get one of these, and you'll be completely happy for the rest of your days.
Very well done! I put a 'battery tube', of sorts, to take care of the battery rattle and will do some long run tests to see if I have any flickering problems. I've not noticed anything thus far. Excellent light, Wayne!!
ElektroLumens
Flashlight Enthusiast
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Try putting a little vasoline on the o-ring in the tail cap, and put the cap back on. May be a problem with the o-ring bunching up. May be causeing a loss of grounding?
Wayne J.
Can anyone else who has had this flickering problem verify if this fix, indeed, worked? I have not noticed any flickering yet (he knocks on wood), but will be lubing the dry o-ring, as it just makes good sense, anyway (thinking... Where did I last see that tube?).
milwaukeeblues
Newly Enlightened
Originally posted by bucken:
"Can anyone else who has had this flickering problem verify if this fix, indeed, worked? I have not noticed any flickering yet (he knocks on wood), but will be lubing the dry o-ring, as it just makes good sense, anyway (thinking... Where did I last see that tube?)."
I tried some silicone and then some radio shack lube gel on the tailcap threads with no improvement. Then sent the light back to Wayne. But at the time, the fuller fix has not been posted, so I did not lube the O-ring. That might have worked.
I also think this is a minor hiccup, and dropping a package into the fedex box isn't much of a hassle either. I really like the light and hope to get it back soon. I'm sure it will be great.
Meanwhile I received the Mr. Bulk Nexneedle. Hoo boy these LED lights are really getting good!
"Can anyone else who has had this flickering problem verify if this fix, indeed, worked? I have not noticed any flickering yet (he knocks on wood), but will be lubing the dry o-ring, as it just makes good sense, anyway (thinking... Where did I last see that tube?)."
I tried some silicone and then some radio shack lube gel on the tailcap threads with no improvement. Then sent the light back to Wayne. But at the time, the fuller fix has not been posted, so I did not lube the O-ring. That might have worked.
I also think this is a minor hiccup, and dropping a package into the fedex box isn't much of a hassle either. I really like the light and hope to get it back soon. I'm sure it will be great.
Meanwhile I received the Mr. Bulk Nexneedle. Hoo boy these LED lights are really getting good!
Marty Weiner
Flashlight Enthusiast
I love my Blaster II and haven't experienced any problems except internal "battery wobble" which I can live with.
Did everyone see Wayne's posting for Gold/Black models at $49.99. This is your chance to get your first or an extra (albeit in a gaudy color combo) for a really good price.
Marty
Did everyone see Wayne's posting for Gold/Black models at $49.99. This is your chance to get your first or an extra (albeit in a gaudy color combo) for a really good price.
Marty
ElektroLumens
Flashlight Enthusiast
I was testing a few of the remaining black/gold Blaster II's, and I found one that flickered. It would barely work. So I took off the tail cap, and found that the end of the flashlight didn't have the anodizing removed. So it didn't have complete electrical ground. I used an exacto knife to scrape off the anodizing (boy, that stuff doesn't come off easily!). When I put back on the tail cap, the flashlight worked perfectly. So I wonder if this is the problem some have been having? The threads are anodized with the rest of the tail cap. The only part to give electrical contact is the very end of the flashlight to the tailcap.
I guess trying to have as much area anodized as possible caused this problem.
Wayne J.
I guess trying to have as much area anodized as possible caused this problem.
Wayne J.
jmm
Newly Enlightened
After I saw the other flickering posts yesterday, I decided to try to test the "lube theory", by seeing if I could make the flickering problem come back by removing the silicon that appeared to make it go away. I de-lubed my O-Ring and tailcap using several applications of Isopropyl alcohol, a toothbrush and fresh paper towels for each of several successive cleanings. When I finally managed to remove all of the silicon and the O-Ring got "squeaky" again, the flickering problem returned. I lubed everything again, and the flickering once again went away.
I tried to describe to Wayne what I thought was happening with the O-Ring, but my attempted explanation got a little "messy". He came up with the "bunched up O-Ring" description, which is highly accurate, and quite elegant in it's simplicity.
For the real masochists out there, here's what may be happening... When an assembly with an unlubricated O-Ring is screwed together, the O-Ring alternately "grabs", then distorts, then slips, in increments (this is where "squeaks" come from). So, when something like a tailcap ends up in its final tightened position, a distorted O-Ring MAY actually be trying to pull it back to the last undistorted position the O-Ring stuck in, which would have the effect of slightly unscrewing the tailcap, or pulling the machined contact face back from the light body.
When an O-Ring is lubricated, it slips CONSTANTLY as it is tightened, so it does not come to rest in a stressed condition where it is trying to unscrew or retract the tailcap to get back to the unstressed condition it was in before the last "slip" increment...
...There's got to be a better way to describe all of this, oh yeah, there is, the O-Ring gets "bunched up".
I can't say everyone is experiencing the exact same thing with their Blaster IIs, but trying a little bit of lube on the Tailcap O-Ring/threads can't hurt, and is a lot less of a hassle than returning the light.
This is a minor hiccup as far as I'm concerned. I always lube my new lights within a few days anyhow. I'm still 100% sold on the Blaster II and fully appreciate Waynes efforts to make it available to us.
John
I tried to describe to Wayne what I thought was happening with the O-Ring, but my attempted explanation got a little "messy". He came up with the "bunched up O-Ring" description, which is highly accurate, and quite elegant in it's simplicity.
For the real masochists out there, here's what may be happening... When an assembly with an unlubricated O-Ring is screwed together, the O-Ring alternately "grabs", then distorts, then slips, in increments (this is where "squeaks" come from). So, when something like a tailcap ends up in its final tightened position, a distorted O-Ring MAY actually be trying to pull it back to the last undistorted position the O-Ring stuck in, which would have the effect of slightly unscrewing the tailcap, or pulling the machined contact face back from the light body.
When an O-Ring is lubricated, it slips CONSTANTLY as it is tightened, so it does not come to rest in a stressed condition where it is trying to unscrew or retract the tailcap to get back to the unstressed condition it was in before the last "slip" increment...
...There's got to be a better way to describe all of this, oh yeah, there is, the O-Ring gets "bunched up".
I can't say everyone is experiencing the exact same thing with their Blaster IIs, but trying a little bit of lube on the Tailcap O-Ring/threads can't hurt, and is a lot less of a hassle than returning the light.
This is a minor hiccup as far as I'm concerned. I always lube my new lights within a few days anyhow. I'm still 100% sold on the Blaster II and fully appreciate Waynes efforts to make it available to us.
John
Hey Wayne,
After taking a tough grit sandpaper and sanding the end contacts of the body of the light and the tailcap, the flickering went away. It may be the anodizing as well as the o-ring both playing a role in this. The gritty sandpaper actually roughened up the ends, which I immediately noticed when screwing the tailcap back on (it scrapes a little when tightening; which I know is now conducting well)...
Mixed some NyOil II with a dab of Arctic Silver and applied it onto the threads and end of the tailcap. Flickering is gone...
After taking a tough grit sandpaper and sanding the end contacts of the body of the light and the tailcap, the flickering went away. It may be the anodizing as well as the o-ring both playing a role in this. The gritty sandpaper actually roughened up the ends, which I immediately noticed when screwing the tailcap back on (it scrapes a little when tightening; which I know is now conducting well)...
Mixed some NyOil II with a dab of Arctic Silver and applied it onto the threads and end of the tailcap. Flickering is gone...
Hemingray
Enlightened
Got my gold B II this weekend, very nice! Used a sheet of paper rolled up as a fix for battery rattle, now it's not only very bright but also silent...
Of course, I just had to peek inside the business end, I like the relatively "zen" simplicity of the LED mounting, and the robust heatsinking. If one were to get the urge to change LED color to RB, Cyan or blue, it is a simple process of one solder connection and two small screws. I'll leave mine white for now, though I do have an RB star laying around...
OOps, that's reserved for the next Brinkmann Rebel mod.
/ed B in NH
Of course, I just had to peek inside the business end, I like the relatively "zen" simplicity of the LED mounting, and the robust heatsinking. If one were to get the urge to change LED color to RB, Cyan or blue, it is a simple process of one solder connection and two small screws. I'll leave mine white for now, though I do have an RB star laying around...
OOps, that's reserved for the next Brinkmann Rebel mod.
/ed B in NH
Wayne,
Can you please tell me when the international orders were shipped and if you've had any problems due to the higher state of terrorist alert ?
Don't wish to bug you but I keep reading stories of how great the new Blaster II's are and I just can't wait for mine
Thanks
Can you please tell me when the international orders were shipped and if you've had any problems due to the higher state of terrorist alert ?
Don't wish to bug you but I keep reading stories of how great the new Blaster II's are and I just can't wait for mine
Thanks
ElektroLumens
Flashlight Enthusiast
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">As far as I know, all international orders are shipped. Everything was shipped with tracking, so email me, and I'll give you the tracking # for your order.Originally posted by x-ray:
Wayne,
Can you please tell me when the international orders were shipped and if you've had any problems due to the higher state of terrorist alert ?
Don't wish to bug you but I keep reading stories of how great the new Blaster II's are and I just can't wait for mine
Thanks
Don't know if shipping services are affected or not by current events?
Wayne
ElektroLumens
Flashlight Enthusiast
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Yes, the emitter swaps out very easily.
Wayne J.
Wayne,
I really hate to say this, but my original Blaster II has suddenly developed a severe flickering problem, as well.
The end of the body is clean, and no trace of any overlapping anodizing. I have cleaned the contact areas (tailcap and body), and have even tried removing the tailcap o-ring completely. There appears to be very good contact between the tailcap and the body and also between the spring and tailcap,, but nothing seems to help. There's not that much run-time on the batteries, maybe 30 minutes. Connections to the LED appear to be well-connected and secure.
I'll try some fresh batteries, and see what happens.
I'm back... Fresh batteries didn't help a bit. Still flickers. And the original batteries still check on the meter, like new.
It seemed to be working just fine, up until tonight. No, haven't dropped it, or anything else. It's just been laying on a table.
Any other ideas?
I really hate to say this, but my original Blaster II has suddenly developed a severe flickering problem, as well.
The end of the body is clean, and no trace of any overlapping anodizing. I have cleaned the contact areas (tailcap and body), and have even tried removing the tailcap o-ring completely. There appears to be very good contact between the tailcap and the body and also between the spring and tailcap,, but nothing seems to help. There's not that much run-time on the batteries, maybe 30 minutes. Connections to the LED appear to be well-connected and secure.
I'll try some fresh batteries, and see what happens.
I'm back... Fresh batteries didn't help a bit. Still flickers. And the original batteries still check on the meter, like new.
It seemed to be working just fine, up until tonight. No, haven't dropped it, or anything else. It's just been laying on a table.
Any other ideas?
ElektroLumens
Flashlight Enthusiast
<font size="2" face="Verdana, Arial">Bucken,Originally posted by bucken:
Wayne,
I really hate to say this, but my original Blaster II has suddenly developed a severe flickering problem, as well.
The end of the body is clean, and no trace of any overlapping anodizing. I have cleaned the contact areas (tailcap and body), and have even tried removing the tailcap o-ring completely. There appears to be very good contact between the tailcap and the body and also between the spring and tailcap,, but nothing seems to help. There's not that much run-time on the batteries, maybe 30 minutes. Connections to the LED appear to be well-connected and secure.
I'll try some fresh batteries, and see what happens.
I'm back... Fresh batteries didn't help a bit. Still flickers. And the original batteries still check on the meter, like new.
It seemed to be working just fine, up until tonight. No, haven't dropped it, or anything else. It's just been laying on a table.
Any other ideas?
One flashlight had loose screws that hold the LS star on, so it didn't have good ground. Check and see that the screws are on tight.
Also, make sure the tailcap is on securely, and the o-ring is lubed.
If it still doesn't work, send it back and I'll fix it.
I apologize to anyone with this flickering problem. From now on I'll check every flashlight carefully, as I should have done this time.
Wayne J.
www.elektrolumens.com
Thanks, Wayne, IT's WORKING AGAIN!
I carefully checked the tightness of the screws, and was able to turn BOTH of them about an extra 1/16 turn, or so. Who'da thought... Before, I had removed the tailcap, and completed the negative (battery) to ground (body) connection using a short piece of heavy gauge wire. So I then knew that it was something different than the tailcap connection.
BTW, after tightening the screws, I just let the Blaster II run a while without the head attached. Talk about a supercharged "candle-mode" for lighting up a room! Did you say that the Blaster II would run with good brightness for about 24 hours?!?
This is a great light for a power outage, and might actually be too bright as a tent light.
Thanks, Wayne, for the suggestion! I will NOT be returning it.
I carefully checked the tightness of the screws, and was able to turn BOTH of them about an extra 1/16 turn, or so. Who'da thought... Before, I had removed the tailcap, and completed the negative (battery) to ground (body) connection using a short piece of heavy gauge wire. So I then knew that it was something different than the tailcap connection.
BTW, after tightening the screws, I just let the Blaster II run a while without the head attached. Talk about a supercharged "candle-mode" for lighting up a room! Did you say that the Blaster II would run with good brightness for about 24 hours?!?
Thanks, Wayne, for the suggestion! I will NOT be returning it.
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