Blinking Display

[bluwolf]

A while back I mounted a vertical digital display for my quill travel on my mill. The other day the display started blinking. So I took the battery out, waited, then put it back in. Still blinking. Okay, I replaced the battery. Still blinking. The area where the battery goes is clean, no corrosion or dirt. Anyone have any idea what else I can do to fix it?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[precisionworks]

Even the most expensive quill DRO's are usually not repairable.

 

[datiLED]

I have read that a common alkaline button cells may make the display blink like that. Try a silver oxide button cell in the same size, and see if the display remains steady.

 

[gadget_lover]

It would be a good idea to check the battery voltage. A button cell alkaline battery has a fairly short shelf life. If under 1.3 volts it might blink.

Daniel

 

[PEU]

my cheap chinese calipers blink when battery is almost empty, but they keep measuring.


Pablo

 

[gadget_lover]

my cheap chinese calipers blink when battery is almost empty, but they keep measuring.


Pablo

You have to watch out for that. Some of them become inaccurate when the battery voltage drops. I figure a fresh battery is much cheaper than scrapping several hour's work.


Daniel

 

[bluwolf]

Thanks for the replies. There's at least a couple things I can try. I'm glad to hear they're usually not repairable because I wouldn't have the elctrical know-how to do it anyway. But that's why I asked here. Besides the machining aspect, there's a lot more electrical know-how on this forum.

Mike

 

[bluwolf]

Sigh...I wish everything was that easy to fix. Not being that bright, it never occurred to me to check the voltage on a new battery. It had been sitting around for awhile. Thanks Daniel. A "fresh" new battery and all is right with the world, or at least the display, again.

Mike

 

[moderator007]

You have to watch out for that. Some of them become inaccurate when the battery voltage drops. I figure a fresh battery is much cheaper than scrapping several hour's work.


Daniel

+1
Mine never seems to start blinking. But does start to get very slow on displaying the reading. Normal the display shows the reading almost instantly as you move it. When the battery gets low it hesitates before showing the reading as you move it. One time I had two pieces I was trying to press fit, trying to get a tight fit. Meter was reading I needed to take a few thousandths off. Took a few thousandths off and checked it again. Meter said I needed a few thousands off again. So I took more off. Read it again still said I needed to take some off. I knew something was not right. Changed the battery and I had already under cut the piece. I had to start all over again. I also noticed when the battery gets low the caliper seems to lose zero more often having to set zero almost every time I measured. Now I try to be very aware of when the battery is getting low. Bought a pack of 25 batteries so I dont have worry about trying to find some when I need them.

 

[precisionworks]

One time I had two pieces I was trying to press fit, trying to get a tight fit.

If you achieve that with calipers it is only because the Gods Of Measurement are smiling on you:nana:

Even the best & highest priced calipers like Mitu or Starrett will guarantee only +/- .001", so if the shaft ends up .001" small & the bore is .001" big the fit will be anything but tight. If the measurements go the other way the shaft will never go into the bore.

My calipers are used only for roughing & they are put away when .010" remains to be removed. Either a micrometer or a master vernier caliper is used to finish the job.

 

[moderator007]

Hi barry, I guess I worded that wrong in terms of a machinist. I do know what a press fit is. I was only refering to the fit was tight enough that I actual had to press or drive it in place.
If you were press fitting two pieces of 4130 .250 thick Tube what would you suggest as the interference between the two pieces.

 

[precisionworks]

IMO the best Class of Fit tables are those on Engineers Edge.

Go to this link & click on Class V which takes you to the dimensions.

 

[moderator007]

Thanks Barry for the table. Greatly appreciated. :thumbsup:

 

[Al Combs]

Thanks Daniel. A "fresh" new battery and all is right with the world, or at least the display, again.

Mike

I ran across this article as a link in a thread discussing battery life in Mitutoyo Calipers vs the $10 HF caliper. The relevant point is if the display requires 1.3 volts or so to function properly as Daniel noted, Silver oxide batteries are much better suited to the task. They remain above that voltage level for better than 95% of their life. Alkaline is almost always supplied just because they are cheaper. If you Google your battery's model number, it should be easy to get the number of a silver oxide equivalent.

 

[PEU]

You have to watch out for that. Some of them become inaccurate when the battery voltage drops. I figure a fresh battery is much cheaper than scrapping several hour's work.

Daniel

Didn't knew, but not a problem, I really enjoy using the verniers now :)


Pablo