Boring an LU60, HELP!

[Knuckles]

Hello all,

I have a SureFire M951 that I would like to put a Malkoff M60 in. I can use the M60 no problem with the shock-absorbing bezel but because shock absorption is not needed with an LED and it actually traps heat in the bezel, I would like to use the Z44-HA bezel. This will also make the weaponlight a bit lighter and smaller in profile. I have a Z44 bezel from a C2 and it screws onto the M951 just fine but when I put the Malkoff in it the LED is so far out with the C2 bezel that the threads won't even engage, so I need a way to bore out the LU60 adapter to fit the Malkoff.

I don't have the means to bore it out myself so does anyone offer this service? It would be nice to be able to use any P60 drop-in and have the Z44 bezel screw all the way down. I will pay for shipping and labor to have this done.

Thanks in advance.

 

[BIGLOU]

I just had my LU60 bored by my buddy for my DIY 3P. I have to still use them springs with a couple of coils cut for electical contact and battery does fall though and I dont think it's bored for 18mm. Are u using CR123s? I could not PM you.

 

[PCC]

I've bored a few of these. With Malkoff drop-ins you can keep the shelf on the inside between the battery and the drop-in, but, you need to shave down the lip that some of these have. The shoulder on the Malkoff does not sit on the end of the LU60, but, this is not a bad thing because the bezel screws down just fine with it this way.

 

[Solscud007]

Yeah PCC helped me with my LU60 bore project. I DIY bored the battery side to fit 18650s but I didnt have anything large enough to more for a malkoff. I actually had mine bored for my Kerberos triple.

 

[Knuckles]

I've bored a few of these. With Malkoff drop-ins you can keep the shelf on the inside between the battery and the drop-in, but, you need to shave down the lip that some of these have. The shoulder on the Malkoff does not sit on the end of the LU60, but, this is not a bad thing because the bezel screws down just fine with it this way.

So is that with the shock absorbing bezel or with the Z44? I'm looking to use the Z44 and the Mlakoff keeps the bezel so far away the threads won't even begin to engage between the bezel and the LU60. Does anyone know if the LU60 needs to be bored in a cone or straight-wall shape to fit the Malkoff? I am also considering the Thrunite XM-L drop-in but either one will require boring the LU60 to use a Z44 bezel on the M951.

Thanks for the replies, I thought I subscribed to this but I managed to find my own threads in a search so thank you mods for posting my thread.

 

[precisionworks]

Does anyone know if the LU60 needs to be bored in a cone or straight-wall shape to fit the Malkoff?

If anyone knows, Gene Malkoff knows :nana:

http://www.malkoffdevices.com/shop/contact_us.html

 

[PCC]

So is that with the shock absorbing bezel or with the Z44? I'm looking to use the Z44 and the Mlakoff keeps the bezel so far away the threads won't even begin to engage between the bezel and the LU60. Does anyone know if the LU60 needs to be bored in a cone or straight-wall shape to fit the Malkoff? I am also considering the Thrunite XM-L drop-in but either one will require boring the LU60 to use a Z44 bezel on the M951.

Thanks for the replies, I thought I subscribed to this but I managed to find my own threads in a search so thank you mods for posting my thread.

The LU60 internal diameter is smaller than the outside diameter of a Malkoff or any aftermarket LED drop-in you would want to try putting on it. The SureFire P60L will drop right in, though, without any modification required on the LU60. The few that I've bored were just straight bored to about 22.4mm and the Malkoff drops right in. Yes, on every single one I've bored it was bored with the intention of using the LU60 with a Z44.

 

[Knuckles]

Thanks for the help. Since it only requires a straight bore I think I can do it myself using a dremel and trial-and-error it until a Malkoff fits snug and all the way flush.

 

[PCC]

Do not bore it until the rim of the Malkoff drop-in sits against the end of the LU60! What I've found is that there should be a gap of about 3mm between the two and the Z44 will screw down and actually hold the Malkoff in place securely. Cut out too much and the drop-in will rattle around in there without the battery and thermal contact will be reduced. Also, keep in mind that the narrowest part of the LU60 is around 23 or 24mm and that taking off too much material there would mean that it will be weaker in that area.

 

[Knuckles]

Roger that, back to square one. I wonder how well the Malkoff will handle the heat it I keep the M2 shock-absorbing bezel and the light doesn't stay on for more than 10-15 minutes at a time.

 

[Knuckles]

OK I dremeled out the LU60 this morning and made it work. The bezel still won't screw all the way down without dremeling away the lip on the inside of the bulb-side of the adapter, or dremeling the Malkoff module itself, something I would never do. But the Z44 will screw on now and I have the light assembled with a 2-3mm gap between the bezel and the adapter, so the O-ring is well covered by the bezel so everything is all sealed up. I was a bit worried about taking a Dremel to my SureFire but it looks good, not shoddy at all, and I got the end result I wanted so I am happy.

I don't know why SureFire just can't make the M951 bulb area have the same shape as the 6P.

 

[precisionworks]

I don't know why SureFire just can't make the M951 bulb area have the same shape as the 6P.

They probably have some reason for that, hard to tell. You did well not to remove the lip inside the tube, as the lip provides a forward "hard stop" for the battery to bear against. With the battery pushing against the lip, the tail cap spring exerts pressure only against the rear of the battery, and the bulb/LED exerts a constant pressure against the front of the battery. The lip (after boring) doesn't have to be very wide, roughly 2.5mm.