Can a LED MagLite run on 4.2v?

[DBCstm]

Hi everybody, newbie here with the fever! lol I'm hoping someone can tell me if the new Mag LED that's using the Cree emitter can be run on a single Li-ion battery at 4.2v? Of course I've got a 2D that is supposed to run on 2 D cell alkalines but I'm wondering if the bulb has any kind of heat sinking to allow it to be overdriven slightly? I don't want the alkalines as they tend to ruin lights and I've got an extra protected 32650, anybody know? Or perhaps I could add some heatsinking to ensure that it doesn't run too hot?

I'd really appreciate any help anyone has to offer, still new at all this...

Dale

 

[think2x]

I think you need a 3 D cell Mag LED module to use a single Li-Ion in it.

 

[Lighthouse one]

If you have the same Mag Led that I have it uses a Rebel Led and will run a very long time without the slightest harm to the Led. Using a 4.2 volt Lion battery won't get you any improvement. The light works fine with 2 quality D cells. Be careful of the new made in China Duracells....they seem to have a high incidence of leaking.

 

[DBCstm]

Not using the older style with the Rebel LED, I'm using the new Cree emitter. They're out there but somewhat hard to find while the Rebels are selling off the shelf. I'm not looking for gains in the Li-ion, other than lighter, rechargeable and no leaks. It was my thought to make an adapter to fill the space from the missing D cell and let the light run on a single 32650 with a protection circuit. I was thinking that, with the extra voltage, the emitter may run hot and it doesn't seem to have ANY heatsinking.

 

[DBCstm]

Well, I guess I'll shelve the idea of running the new Mag LED on a single protected 32650. If I do go ahead with it, I'll let everyone know how it turns out.

Thanks.

Dale

 

[ScaryFatKidGT]

No body really answered I'm wondering also. What kind of driver do D mags use?

 

[DBCstm]

I don't think they use a driver. I took one apart to prepare it for JayRob to modify with a Cree XM-L T6 and it's really quite simple. No heatsinking to it aside from the post it's mounted on, but with that control post and the bearing that the reflector rides on it looks like it'd be pretty difficult to add heatsinking for better cooling with 30% more power...or 4.2 volts instead of 3.12 from fresh alkalines. I'm thinking that it'd probably be ok for a back-up style light that's not run for long periods but if it was a primary light that got run for an hour or more it might cause the emitter to fail due to overheating. That's my thinking, but like I said, this is all new to me and I don't have any experience to base this on. So if I try adding the Li-ion cell for rechargeable capabilites and a more trusted power source, then the emitter may not survive. Guess it's the price you pay to learn, right? 🙂

 

[Dillo0]

From what I know, they use either a buck or boost driver depending on the model. This is usually placed somewhere under the emitter.

 

[ScaryFatKidGT]

Cuz the 2D is great I mean 37,XXX lux for 30 bucks thats great but it only puts out 134lm and the XP-E in the Fenix PD10 makes 190lm with the same 3 volt (CR123 vs 2 D's) I would love to see the throw then, also 4.2v vs. 3v isn't much more? It wouldn't just go poof would it?

 

[357mag1]

I have tested the latest version of 2D LED Maglite with 3 D cells. In the 2D configuration tailcap current reads about 1140ma and using 3D cells it drops to around 700ma. That leads me to believe some regulation must be taking place.

I even took the guts out of a 2D light and put them into a 3D light because my sister wanted a Green Maglite LED. It has been working great for her.

 

[DBCstm]

That's good to know. I'll go ahead and try dropping in the 32650 with a dummy cell and run it at 4.2. See what happens. Thanks for the input. I've got the emitter from my Stubby build, so if I fry a light I can always drop that emitter in and replace it.