Can you hotwire a Battle Lantern?

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Not incan, but this might do the trick. 6V par36 41xLED drop-in:

http://www.ledtronics.com/products/ProductsDetails.aspx?WP=C393K349


Hi donn_

The 6V led drop-ins are only 108 total lumens - so . . . ?

Ignore what I just said ! Actually just checked it again and the 250W GE4596 28V lamp does get pretty hot so cancel that idea - Sorry.

HID 35W ballast should not run too hot and as long as the mirror unit seals then it should be OK. How long will the lamp be run for ?

Trouble is without actually doing the first conversion then unknowns are just that ! How much heat build up there will be in a sealed plastic enclosure is somewhat problematic. My POB is pretty much a sealed plastic box and it works just fine - a 55W might not be any problem either but I have not tested it - There have been 55W conversions of the POB and I have not heard of any overheating problems.

Good luck :devil:

Pete
 
The plastic one could be run for as much as a couple of hours at a time (night fishing).

The one on the right will be reserved for high heat applications,

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although I've been thinking about having LedZep do his multi-LED thing with it. It's got a body of 1/4" thick cast aluminum, and almost as much battery space, along with a 4.75" window.
 
The original yellow battle lanterns used 6 volt sealed beam bulbs, as the two spring top batteries were inserted and worked in parallel. Fortunately in my 20 year career, I never had to use one in a "battle", but one time we were practicing damage control in the "USS Buttercup", the wet simulator in Norfolk, VA. Flooding into the space, and no lights...dropped a lantern and out it went.......
 
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I wonder if the flaw was in the bulkhead mount. Mine doesn't have one, just two holes in the back of the case to accept it, but the spec doesn't call for a gasket there. Three gaskets are specified; at the switch, the front cover and at the lamp holder. If there was no gasket at the bulkhead mount, it would definitely pass water.
 
Donn, the mounting bracket that comes with these is a pretty simple design...also of the 1/8" steel like the one on back. One of them I got on EBay came with it. Note how it is slanted which allows the anchor to slide and grip.

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Thanks for the pics, Lux. They'll be a big help in case I can't find the parts, and have to fab them.

Interesting the screws holding the clip to the light are Phillips head, while all the other fasteners on the light are slotted. Are they gasketed inside the back?
 
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Welp, scored one off the ebay link this weekend. Now for fun and experimentation! I do think the HID option sounds wicked cool especially with that drop in reflector thingy. And to think I didnt have any use for my left over 6000K lamps.... :D
 
Cool! :twothumbs

I ordered the flood version of the reflector/lens enclosure yesterday. I'm looking forward to playing with it.
 
Thanks for the pics, Lux. They'll be a big help in case I can't find the parts, and have to fab them.

Interesting the screws holding the clip to the light are Phillips head, while all the other fasteners on the light are slotted. Are they gasketed inside the back?

Mine both have a hex head bolt going through back from inside (not phillips). No gasket, although there should be.
 
The first phase is complete, and I'd be very happy if the rest goes as easily. The reflector/lens drop-in from Duckworks arrived today, and is indeed a drop-in:

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The lens is heavy duty, and as you can see, very textured for flood. The reflector is very heavy metal on the outside, and appears to be polished well, from what little I can see.

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The bulb aperture is a bit over 1/2", just slightly smaller in diameter than a KIU pedestal, but plenty big for a good sized bulb.

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Now all I have to do is figure out how to mount the bulb, how to wire it all and what to do about the battery arrangement.
 
I just tested this reflector/lens combination by sitting it down over a KIU pedestal. I tried a few bulbs and cell combinations.

1111 on two A123s...not bad

1164 on three A123s...better

623 on 4 A123s (12.6 vbatt)...wicked bright! And that voltage barely woke the 623 up.
 
I just tested this reflector/lens combination by sitting it down over a KIU pedestal. I tried a few bulbs and cell combinations.

1111 on two A123s...not bad

1164 on three A123s...better

623 on 4 A123s (12.6 vbatt)...wicked bright! And that voltage barely woke the 623 up.

Beamshots! Do we have to wait till you put it together?

Oh, and the 100W 13V that was in it when you got it -- it shouldn't be bad (if more throwy than you're looking for :D) off 4 A123s, either. Since the 123s should only fill half the battery compartment, you could use the other side to store the unused lamp (ala Maglite), and have swappable flood and throw.
 
Does anybody know how the 35 watt HID mod would work? Too hot for the lantern host?

What kind of batteries? Sealed lead-acid, NiMH packs, bignormous Li-ion? Or would two lantern batteries drive that beast?
 
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I think if one substituted out the 6v lumps and stuck in a couple similar SLA 12v jobs it might be doable if the size can be worked out. I got one coming this monday. Hope I can squeeze all the goodies in there since Im :toilet: with designing battery packs.
 
I'm thinking about buying four F-size Ni-MH cells and rebuilding some lantern packs for this. We'll see if that works :D
 
I have a question. Even if battle lanterns have a power cord do they still require batteries in them? Also what is the wiring configuration for the battle lantern and batteries if needed.
 
It's in process, and waiting for one of Alan's regulated switches.

It'll be carrying ~16x A123 26650's and driving a 623 through a flood lens.
 
Just got mine off ebay. Plan on doing navylantern.com upgrade do it. Anyone done one before? Thoughts about it?
 
finished mine few days ago, 35w hid, 12x nimh sub c 4200mah, ran it from full charge to off, about 1hr 30min, on new cells, draws 2,4A, will pbly gain few min as i brake them in, after it shut off i opened it, no heat damage, i guess it is hot, but not too hot, all parts attached with silicone.

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