Circuit board replacement 3A...need help

[js-lots]

I am looking for a direct drive circuit board that will put out 3A with a freshly charged 18650. Went to usual sites, dx, kd, ss, but I am having trouble finding what I am looking for. Suggestions? Thankyou for the help.

 

[bluecrow76]

What host is this going in?

direct drive circuit board that will put out 3A with a freshly charged 18650

Direct drive doesn't need a board... its just batteries directly connect to the emitter, unless you want something like d2flex that does pwm dimming (but not regulation).

If you want regulation, there is the Shark Buck and the tri-flupic.

 

[js-lots]

It is going in a aurora light. It has a 19 mm board drawing 1800ma. I want something a little more powerful. Forgive me, Im a novice with this. I need a board to power the led. I looked at the shark but that a little above my needs. Thanks

 

[LukeA]

It is going in a aurora light. It has a 19 mm board drawing 1800ma. I want something a little more powerful. Forgive me, Im a novice with this. I need a board to power the led. I looked at the shark but that a little above my needs. Thanks

If you're looking to supply 3A, you're probably using a P7 or a parallel wired MC-E. Using one of those emitters from one 18650 is one scenario where you really don't need a regulator between the LED and the power source.

 

[bluecrow76]

Is this the kind of light you're talking about?

I would take the board that is currently in the light, remove all the electrical components and use the blank board to solder the wires to that will drive the emitter. That keeps you from having to rig up a spring to a new board, not to mention not having to spend any money! :party:

 

[js-lots]

Yes that is very similar. According to my dmm on a 4.2 18650 the light draws approx 1.8A. Id like it to pull 3A. What do you suggest

 

[js-lots]

Is this the kind of light you're talking about?

I would take the board that is currently in the light, remove all the electrical components and use the blank board to solder the wires to that will drive the emitter. That keeps you from having to rig up a spring to a new board, not to mention not having to spend any money! :party:

Whats the purpose of the board in there already? Will the battery provide to much power to the Mc-e in parallel. Is it safe? I assume the power will be controlled through the resistor in the tailcap. Again thanks for the help

 

[bluecrow76]

Whats the purpose of the board in there already?

The purpose of the board in there is to regulate either the voltage to the emitter or the current to the emitter. Does the light have multiple modes? Without seeing the board (do you have pictures) we can't say much about it. You stated that the light will draw 1.8A from an 18650 cell that is fully charged to 4.2V. You can guess that the emitter is being driven somewhere around 2.4A.

Will the battery provide to much power to the Mc-e in parallel. Is it safe?

Take a look at this thread and read it carefully. It talks about the balancing act of direct drive, specifically addressing a particular bin of P7 and a particular battery. It will give you some insights as to why the P7 is a good match for direct drive from an 18650.

I assume the power will be controlled through the resistor in the tailcap.

The only reason you need a resistor in direct drive is if your batteries' starting voltage is higher than the maximum forward voltage of your emitter.

There are a lot of other post that you can glean information from. Do a search for P7 direct drive or MC-E direct drive and read away. :twothumbs Keep asking questions or let us know what you decide to do.

 

[Greg G]

We need to know the front voltage of the led at the current you wish to drive it at.

Do you know someone with a power supply that could check it?

 

[DM51]

I'm moving this to Flashlight Electronics.

 

[js-lots]

bluecrow thanks for all the information, you have been a big help. The thread you recommended was informative. I see that depending on the bin and the battery will affect the functionality of the direct drive. I only need at the most 2 modes from flashlight. I am going to make the light a direct drive. Or I might mod one like I have seen on the other threads. What clicky/resitors should I use in my tail caps .Again, thanks for the help

 

[js-lots]

I believe the led is c-bin or so they say. thanks again

 

[Greg G]

Is the LED a Cree MC-E or a Seoul P7?

*If* it is a Seoul P7 we need to know the part number, such as CSWOI or CSWOJ. The last letter designates the front voltage. You can DD an *I* bin off an 18650, an Li Ion C cell, or 3 NiMH C or D cells. A *J* bin would likely need a boost driver to pull 3 amps out of an 18650.

 

[js-lots]

it is a p7

 

[js-lots]

so, a 18650 will operate on either j or I?

 

[bluecrow76]

Per the link you read, the 18650 is best suited for direct driving an I binned P7. It can drive a J binned P7, it just won't run as long/as bright because it requires a slightly higher voltage.

 

[js-lots]

do you know the size resistor in the typical 2 mode lights. ie mte, aurora. Where can I find them in case I need to make a new clicky. And lastly the board the spring and clicky sit on. Where can I find those? Sorry about all the questions. Thanks

 

[Greg G]

Hook up the emitter to a fresh 18650 with the DMM in series and see what current it pulls. That will tell us what bin it is, J or I.