Compact 18650 XP-G2 thrower

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apheod

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
9
I'm wanting to mount a light on my AR-15 that will throw out to 200 yards or so. It's a fairly lightweight rifle and I'd like to keep it that way. I mounted my Eagletac G25C2 on it and it's 138 grams is very noticable.

I just spent several hours searching and while I found several lights that were lacking one feature, nothing seems perfect. The Eagletac D25LC2 Clicky would be perfect, if only it were a forward clicky. It's size and weight is great for my application, and I think I can reach my throw goal in a light that small with an XP-G2 driven to 2A. The LumaPower Signature LX (I have one) is also a good size and weight, although it's not available with an XP-G2.

This is going onto a home defense weapon, so quality is a major factor. I also shoot 3 gun competitions with this gun and it sees quite a bit of use. I will not be putting a low end light on a high end rifle. At this point, I think I may have to go with a drop in build up. If nobody knows of another complete light I should look into, how about a compact P60 host? I like the quality of the Deereelight CL1H, but it's a bit on the heavy side. I can go that route, if there is nothing lighter to match it's build quality.


1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?

____I would like to purchase the light from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
__x__I will be mail-ordering or buying online, so this doesn't matter.


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! :-)

____Less than $25.
____Less than $50.
____Less than $100.
____Less than $150.
____Less than $300.
____I have no limit.
__x__I’m flexible, tell me what you gotJ.
____Other, please specify ________


3) Format:

_x___I want a flashlight.
____I want a headlamp.
____I want a lantern.
____I want a dive light.
____I want a portable spotlight.


4) Flashlight-specific format/size:

____Keychain size.
____Every day carry small (2-4 inches).
__x__Every day carry medium (4-7 inches).
____Holster carry.
____Big enough to need its own travel caseJ.
____I don’t care.
____I don’t know.
____N/A


5) Emitter/Light source:

__x__LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
____HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
____I don't know.


6) Manufacturer:

____I want to buy a light from a traditional mass producing manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
__x__I would consider getting a light that is pieced together (for example a “host” or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a “drop-in” emitter from another source). Under the right circumstances, this path can provide more options to the consumer to meet specific needs, and can often be easily upgradeable as technology improves.


7) What battery type do you want to use?

____I intend to use alkaline batteries (AAA, AA, C, D) (disclaimer, while it does not preclude all choices, these are not recommended for many of today’s most powerful lights)
____I intend to use rechargeable nickel chemistry (NiCad, NiMH, NiZn)
____I intend to use lithium primary batteries (CR123, CR2, Energizer Advanced/Ultimate Lithium AA/AAA)
__x__I intend to use rechargeable lithium (li-ion) chemistry. Feel free to specify a size if you know which size you want (14500, RCR123/16340, 17500, 17670, 18650, etc.)
____I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery. (Note: these choices may be very limited unless you are looking at spotlights)


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is impossible).

____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (0-10 lumens).
____I want to walk around an unlit rural area (50-150 lumens).
____I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
__x__I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
____I want ridiculous amounts of lumens (800+ lumens).


9) Throw vs. Flood: At what distance will you be most likely to use this light? Select all that apply.

____Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
____Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
____5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
____30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
____50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
__x__150+ yards (I want maximum throw possible)


10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum output).

__x__Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
__x__30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
____90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
____3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).


11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase “you get what you pay for” is very accurate for flashlights.

____Not Important (A “night-stand” light).
____Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
____Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
__x__Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don't care.
____I don’t know.


12) Switch Type and location (choose all that apply):

__x__I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
____I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
__x__I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today’s high end lights).
____I don't care.
____I don’t know.
____Other, please specify____________________.


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

__x__A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
__x__I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
____I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
__x__I want a programmable light.
____I want a selector ring.
____I want a strobe mode. (Blinks to show location.)
____I want SOS mode.
____I want a beacon mode.
__x__I don’t care.
____I don’t know.


14)Material/Finish/Coating

____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).
____Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today’s flashlights).
____Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
____Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
__x__I don’t care.
____I don’t know.
____Other, please specify____________.


15) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any below.

____Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________).
____Dedicated R/G/B secondary LEDs.
____“Hybrid” light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)
____Pocket/belt clip
____Holster
____Wrist/Neck Lanyard
____Crenulated bezel
____Non-sparking Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environments
 
there is a FACTORY modded d25lc2 xpg2 from eagletac.. its available from eagletac themselves or the other place ive seen it is at illumination gear. its been modded with the 2.0 amp driver from the XML d25lc2.. definately worth a look at :)
 
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there is a FACTORY modded d25lc2 xpg2 from eagletac.. its available from eagletac themselves or the other place ive seen it is at illumination gear. its been modded with the 2.0 amp driver from the XML d25lc2.. definately worth a look at :)

right, but it has a reverse clicky. i need a forward clicky for my use.

is there another forward clicky tail cap that i could put on a d25lc2? even then, i'm not sure it'd be good for how i want to use it because i think the interface cycles between turbo and strobe with the head tightened if you soft-press the reverse clicky.

on my 4sevens quarks, i have both clickys, and it acts that way with the reverse clicky, but if you put a forward clicky tail on it and try to use momentary twice without waiting a few seconds, it comes back on in strobe. very annoying in everyday use and pretty much rules out any sort of tactical use.

i did find a thread saying that fenix is about to release an xp-g2 version of the pd32, this may work well for my purposes, but i don't believe they're available yet.

if i do decide to go the p60 route, where can i find a mil spec (or at least very reliable) xp-g2 r5 driven to 2 amps in a p60 drop in?
 
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i ended up getting a little trigger happy, i've got tax return money burning a hole in my pocket.

picked up a solar force l2p and l2m to mix and match, and got a xp-g2 r5 drop in for it. should get the job done even if it is a bit heavy. i may still pick up a pd32 g2 when they come out.
 
You got the Solarforce L2M? Excellent. Here's some additional parts that you will want to invest in;

- McClicky (the stock switch that comes with Solarforce L2M is a reverse clicky, and can't handle that much current)
- Cryos cooling head (significantly improved heat dissipation with minimal increase in mass and volume)
- copper tape (to wrap the drop-in to create a snug fit between the head and drop-in, which will create a good thermal pathway)
- a high-powered drop-in (ask vinhnguyen54 to whip you up an overdriven XP-E2 drop-in with smooth reflector, which will have better throw than even the G25C2 MkII)
 
You got the Solarforce L2M? Excellent. Here's some additional parts that you will want to invest in;

- McClicky (the stock switch that comes with Solarforce L2M is a reverse clicky, and can't handle that much current)
- Cryos cooling head (significantly improved heat dissipation with minimal increase in mass and volume)
- copper tape (to wrap the drop-in to create a snug fit between the head and drop-in, which will create a good thermal pathway)
- a high-powered drop-in (ask vinhnguyen54 to whip you up an overdriven XP-E2 drop-in with smooth reflector, which will have better throw than even the G25C2 MkII)

the new version of the l2m, which is what i believe i have coming, does offer a forward clicky.

is the copper tape something i can get locally, or should i try and modify the order from nailbender to include some? he seems to be very quick on shipping, so i need to get that added ASAP.

the drop in i ordered from him is an xp-g2 r5, 5000k, smooth reflector, i asked for 2a but may have to settle for 1.7a, 1 level, potted, 2.8-6v model. i'm not sure yet if i'll be using an 18650, 2xcr123a, or a single 16340.

for my usage, i don't think i'll be needing a cooling head. it's only going to be used for short bursts, being weapon mounted. i'm also trying to keep the weight down as much as possible.
 
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I'd still replace the stock switch, if I were you. Solarforce clickies are rated up to 3A. McClickies can handle 5A. The higher current the switch can take, the less arcing there will be when the switch is pressed, increasing the lifespan.

You might be able to get some copper tape at a local hardware store. I bought mine on the Internet, though, a giant roll of 1/2" tape that I still have left. It's well worth the investment, since I go through P60 drop-ins left and right, but for your use, you will be able to get away with shorter length rolls. Customlites.com has small strips of copper tape available for $1.50 under the DYI section.

I never dealt with nailbender. I do, however, frequently deal with another modder, vinhnguyen54, who also manufactures P60 drop-ins, and he does quality work. He does direct-to-copper LED bonding, and thermally pots the drop-in, as well, so he can have his drop-ins driven a little harder.

If you are going to use it in short bursts, a little overdrive won't hurt the drop-in even without the cooling head. vinh was able to mount the XP-G2 on copper plate and drive that sucker at 2.8A.

Ask vinh about XP-E2, 5000K, copper PCB, smooth reflector, 1.5A, single mode, potted and medium voltage.
 
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