tvodrd
*Flashaholic* ,
Chief_Wiggum's KeyLux post is going to be a hard act to follow, but here goes:
First, you need a plan. I went as Don would say, totally anal this time and modeled everything including the emitter/module in SolidWorks
Not that it's of much use but here's a section of the assembly:
For the CR2's I start with 3/4" dia, 7075 T6 precision-ground stock from http://www.Mcmaster.com. The prec ground stuff fits the collets I use repeatably, so I can remove/replace a part and maintain concentricity. For
me it's worth the extra cost. We'll start with the bezel:
First the plan:
Start by facing the stock. Turn the .660" dia X long enough to clear your knurl tool and to part it later. Knurl and border (minimum depth you can get away with) and center drill. That's a #6 (1/2")
(Next drill it about 3/8 dia through, and bore the .594 dia X.345 deep. Yeah, the cutter angle is more like 15deg than the 10deg the print calls for.) I then power-tapped (40rpm) until it bottomed out and the tap spun. The tailstock chuck is 3/4" cap and was hand-tightened.) With 3-phase power, I have almost instant reverse. Next, bore out the threads for the .100 that the O-ring will bear on. If you grind a 45deg angle on the boring bar, the threads will engage easier.
I got out of sequence with the pics here. Next part it off. I made a 5/8-32 spud to hold the bezel while machining the front. First bore the .530 aperature and then cut the face angle using the compound.
On to the center, starting with the plan:
I started with 5/8" alloy 145 TeCu so the first step was to face and polish it, followed by center drilling. The chamfer is supposed to be prior to threading.
I drilled it thru with a "p" (.323") drill and counterbored the .438 X .312 deep with a 7/16 endmill. (This is a clearance pocket for the LS's leads.) Next I bored the .552 dia X .227 deep. Gage pins are a nice way to check internal diameters. Dont be afraid to turn your own if expedient. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Next cut the O-ring grooves.
Next I chamfered the rear of the batt side O-ring groove and the rear of the part, and threaded it. (The section between the two grooves remains polished. I then cut the module retaining clip groove for a spring wire clip.
The last step for this end is to part it.
For cutting the front details of the center section, I made a holder. With the compound set at 20deg, I rough bored the optic cavity. Next, I bored the .560dia X .050 deep and on the final pass, switched to the compound to finish the cone.
Power Pak time. Always have a plan.
Edit for print error: The .090" dia hole for the split ring bushing should be .096" (#41)
Turn .660 dia X abt 2 1/4 long. Layout the location for the knurl. Layout dies like Dykem or even a felt marker make it easier to see your lines. Knurl and border/cosmetically enhance it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif (Again, only as deep as necessary- this is a thin-walled part.)
When possible, I use quick and (very) dirty shortcuts. If I don't want to count dial revolutions.... You can drill a piece of delrin (hole always comes out a little smaller than the drill) and use it for a depth stop which you can "eyeball" pretty close. I set it abt .020 short of the 1.520 on the print. After drilling, I used a 19/32 endmill to bore to full depth. If it starts chattering, slow it down!
Next step is to bore it to final diameter. (Careful, not much more to go.) Again gage pins can be invaluable. Like I said, Q&D- guess what the O-ring stretched over the tap is for. Tap it or if you're a masochist, single point it. (The male threads on the first CR2's were single point.) Parting is such sweet sorrow. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I will spare everybody the mill work. In fact, this time I am going to farm out cutting the split ring pockets to an NC shop. (They take me about a half hour, and that's after the set-up.) Easiest for those without a mill is to copy the Arc AA design. I'll edit this or do another post on cutting the optic. Its print and the lens gasket are below.
Edit: Forgot a pic of the clunker I am privileged to use:
Larry
First, you need a plan. I went as Don would say, totally anal this time and modeled everything including the emitter/module in SolidWorks
Not that it's of much use but here's a section of the assembly:
For the CR2's I start with 3/4" dia, 7075 T6 precision-ground stock from http://www.Mcmaster.com. The prec ground stuff fits the collets I use repeatably, so I can remove/replace a part and maintain concentricity. For
me it's worth the extra cost. We'll start with the bezel:
First the plan:
Start by facing the stock. Turn the .660" dia X long enough to clear your knurl tool and to part it later. Knurl and border (minimum depth you can get away with) and center drill. That's a #6 (1/2")
(Next drill it about 3/8 dia through, and bore the .594 dia X.345 deep. Yeah, the cutter angle is more like 15deg than the 10deg the print calls for.) I then power-tapped (40rpm) until it bottomed out and the tap spun. The tailstock chuck is 3/4" cap and was hand-tightened.) With 3-phase power, I have almost instant reverse. Next, bore out the threads for the .100 that the O-ring will bear on. If you grind a 45deg angle on the boring bar, the threads will engage easier.
I got out of sequence with the pics here. Next part it off. I made a 5/8-32 spud to hold the bezel while machining the front. First bore the .530 aperature and then cut the face angle using the compound.
On to the center, starting with the plan:
I started with 5/8" alloy 145 TeCu so the first step was to face and polish it, followed by center drilling. The chamfer is supposed to be prior to threading.
I drilled it thru with a "p" (.323") drill and counterbored the .438 X .312 deep with a 7/16 endmill. (This is a clearance pocket for the LS's leads.) Next I bored the .552 dia X .227 deep. Gage pins are a nice way to check internal diameters. Dont be afraid to turn your own if expedient. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Next cut the O-ring grooves.
Next I chamfered the rear of the batt side O-ring groove and the rear of the part, and threaded it. (The section between the two grooves remains polished. I then cut the module retaining clip groove for a spring wire clip.
The last step for this end is to part it.
For cutting the front details of the center section, I made a holder. With the compound set at 20deg, I rough bored the optic cavity. Next, I bored the .560dia X .050 deep and on the final pass, switched to the compound to finish the cone.
Power Pak time. Always have a plan.
Edit for print error: The .090" dia hole for the split ring bushing should be .096" (#41)
Turn .660 dia X abt 2 1/4 long. Layout the location for the knurl. Layout dies like Dykem or even a felt marker make it easier to see your lines. Knurl and border/cosmetically enhance it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif (Again, only as deep as necessary- this is a thin-walled part.)
When possible, I use quick and (very) dirty shortcuts. If I don't want to count dial revolutions.... You can drill a piece of delrin (hole always comes out a little smaller than the drill) and use it for a depth stop which you can "eyeball" pretty close. I set it abt .020 short of the 1.520 on the print. After drilling, I used a 19/32 endmill to bore to full depth. If it starts chattering, slow it down!
Next step is to bore it to final diameter. (Careful, not much more to go.) Again gage pins can be invaluable. Like I said, Q&D- guess what the O-ring stretched over the tap is for. Tap it or if you're a masochist, single point it. (The male threads on the first CR2's were single point.) Parting is such sweet sorrow. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I will spare everybody the mill work. In fact, this time I am going to farm out cutting the split ring pockets to an NC shop. (They take me about a half hour, and that's after the set-up.) Easiest for those without a mill is to copy the Arc AA design. I'll edit this or do another post on cutting the optic. Its print and the lens gasket are below.
Edit: Forgot a pic of the clunker I am privileged to use:
Larry
