Crack open an L1 head

jzmtl

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 4, 2006
Messages
3,123
Location
Montreal, Canada
I got an SF L1 cree that I want to crack open the head and perhaps put an R2 in there, I've tried strap wrench, cold/heat but nothing works, damn thing won't bulge. Didn't boil it for fear of damaging plastic inside, only dunked it in hot water after sprayed with liquid air hoping thermal expansion would help.

So does anyone have a surefire way to get it open without damage it? Or should I just gave up and send it to a modder? If so, who? Just need to open it up, nothing else.
 
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which L1 ? Surefire/pelican or fenix L1d ...at first i thought you meant L1d but wasnt sure...but i had success putting the head in a ziplock bag and run VERY HOT tap water in glass and let it sit for minutes then try the strap twist off
 
SF L1, I'm hesitant on extended heat because of the plastic optic, not sure how heat resistant is it.
 
fwiw, i gave up and sent mine to milky....:crazy:

ill have an ML1 CX soon...

Crenshaw
 
The ML1 is a SureFire L1 that has been modified by CPF member Milkyspit. As for details, the light can be modified so specifically that we'll have to wait for Crenshaw to tell us what he had done.
 
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=175864

the ML1 CX stands for Milkyspit L1 Cree Xtreme.

There have been a few versions of the ML1, but this is one where you get to keep most of your parts stock.

you Start with an L1 Cree, you can either buy one and send it to Scott (Milkyspit) or buy one from him.

Next, Scott will unpot the head, and replace the driver with a mad-max driver, which according to his latest PM, will drive the LED at 700ma on primaries, and 900ma on RC123A. Needless to say, this makes it a heck of alot brighter.

next, Scott will recalibrate the tailcap's resistance, in order to achieve lower beam. This is done because increasing the drive level, means that the low beam will also be higher then stock, Scott increases the resistance so that the low beam will be about the same as the old style L1, 2-5 lumens. If you want, he can recalibrate it even lower, around 1 lumen, or less i believe,but this will cost extra, as it takes more time and testing to get it exactly right. I did not opt for this, as i think 2-5 lumens is fine for a low beam. this 2-5 lumens is based on the L1 cree's low is 10 lumens.

Bonus, you get a variable focus light, by loosening and tightening the part of the head that contains the optic.

in short, you get, exactly what the L1 Cree should have been, but isnt.

Milky also offers boring for the body if you need to use certain rechargables.

There are quite a few other versions, such as a floody L1, reflectored L1, L1s using SSC LEDs, and a short version, etc etc, again its almost fully customisable, all you have to do is PM scott, or email him.

Please do note however, that scott is a busy busy man, and may not always get back to you straight away. Like for instance, my L1 CX has been about 2 months in the making, from first contact, till the point i sent it, to right now im waiting for it to get to him. But, i think its worth it. :D

Crenshaw
 
daymn...2months?
which means if i send an e1b to him right now i won't get it back till fall semester starts....
 
well it depends, for me there was abit of communication error here and there...:crazy: so it took a bit longer then it should have. But you should know that its scott's full time job...modding...:huh:

Alternatively, you can buy already modded heads from him to put on your E1b..

Crenshaw
 
Don't take my word as the gospel, b/c i have NOT tried this, but if you're only worry is melting the reflector, i wouldn't worry at all. you can boil water in the microwave in a $1 plastic measuring cup, i would think SF's optics could handle a lot more than that.
 
All of the sudden, I want an L1. :poke:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=175864

the ML1 CX stands for Milkyspit L1 Cree Xtreme.

There have been a few versions of the ML1, but this is one where you get to keep most of your parts stock.

you Start with an L1 Cree, you can either buy one and send it to Scott (Milkyspit) or buy one from him.

Next, Scott will unpot the head, and replace the driver with a mad-max driver, which according to his latest PM, will drive the LED at 700ma on primaries, and 900ma on RC123A. Needless to say, this makes it a heck of alot brighter.

next, Scott will recalibrate the tailcap's resistance, in order to achieve lower beam. This is done because increasing the drive level, means that the low beam will also be higher then stock, Scott increases the resistance so that the low beam will be about the same as the old style L1, 2-5 lumens. If you want, he can recalibrate it even lower, around 1 lumen, or less i believe,but this will cost extra, as it takes more time and testing to get it exactly right. I did not opt for this, as i think 2-5 lumens is fine for a low beam. this 2-5 lumens is based on the L1 cree's low is 10 lumens.

Bonus, you get a variable focus light, by loosening and tightening the part of the head that contains the optic.

in short, you get, exactly what the L1 Cree should have been, but isnt.

Milky also offers boring for the body if you need to use certain rechargables.

There are quite a few other versions, such as a floody L1, reflectored L1, L1s using SSC LEDs, and a short version, etc etc, again its almost fully customisable, all you have to do is PM scott, or email him.

Please do note however, that scott is a busy busy man, and may not always get back to you straight away. Like for instance, my L1 CX has been about 2 months in the making, from first contact, till the point i sent it, to right now im waiting for it to get to him. But, i think its worth it. :D

Crenshaw
 
fwiw, i gave up and sent mine to milky....:crazy:

ill have an ML1 CX soon...

Crenshaw

How much did it cost if you don't mind me asking? If I were to send it in the only thing I need would be open the head, perhaps replace the emitter as well, wonder if he'll take such a small job.

Oh does he have a price table somewhere? I scrolled through that thread but didn't notice any.
 
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SF L1, I'm hesitant on extended heat because of the plastic optic, not sure how heat resistant is it.

I'm not sure if the plastic optic is the same as in my first gen KL1, but I boiled it at least 3 or 4 times (up to 20 minutes per time) to try and get the head open but couldn't. I tried freezer and then dropping into boiling water without luck. Then, I tried a 375 degree oven for 15 minutes and it didn't do anything, so finally I left it in the oven for an hour+ accidentally and the inside plastic optic melted behind the glass, and I still couldn't open it. I think it's time for a torch and strap wrenches.........

9x23
 
xcel730, i had that feeling in february :crazy:....look for one on bst, they pop up every now and then...around $100

jzmtl, The cost for for my circuit replacement and tailcap recalibration was $95 before shipping. I would suggest you PM him, or since his PM box is full quite abit of the time, email him....

there is a sort of table here:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=174494

but i dont see prices. I guess the best way would be to contact him.

I cant really speak for him, but i cant see him turning down anyone's request for help..:) although it would be questionable whether you want to incur shipping costs to get the head open..but thats up to you..:D

Crenshaw
 
Thanks Crenshaw for the information. IIRC, in one of milky's thread, the cost is about $100 if you supply your own light or $185 if you buy the light from him.

I always liked the way the L1 looks, but never got it because I didn't really like the beam pattern and color. If I could get it in Seoul P4 that'll be cool.

Too many lights now ... so I may just contact Milky and have him take two months to work on it.

xcel730, i had that feeling in february :crazy:....look for one on bst, they pop up every now and then...around $100

jzmtl, The cost for for my circuit replacement and tailcap recalibration was $95 before shipping. I would suggest you PM him, or since his PM box is full quite abit of the time, email him....

there is a sort of table here:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=174494

but i dont see prices. I guess the best way would be to contact him.

I cant really speak for him, but i cant see him turning down anyone's request for help..:) although it would be questionable whether you want to incur shipping costs to get the head open..but thats up to you..:D

Crenshaw
 
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