Crelant 7G5 XR-C Thrower

[Tiresius]

That's right!!! After my successful mod on my Crelant 7G5 V2 with a warm XML, It needs to throw better. Also, I mentioned it in my last post that I'm going to be making an XR-C setup with a 1.4a driver: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...8-Fall-in-love-with-your-Crelant-7G5-V2-again

Now I'm pending on the driver to arrive. Have already setup the entire drop-in with precise measurement. This is a huge, solid aluminum heat sink. I'm hoping that this little setup can push past 100k lux (with eye measurement :D). It's going to need a lot of thermal paste...Literally paste, paste.

Enough said, here's the photos:

It took me three tries to get this right. This is the unit by itself.

Proof that this thing isn't hollow.

I actually measured this thing to the hundredth's of a millimeter to make it fit with no free-play. Bored it to the precise measurement.

Here's how it will look like when placed on the host. Lego, anyone? :D

Finally, here's how it looks like behind the 67mm collimator accessory from Crelant.

 

[Tiresius]

Here's the XR-C emitter behind the 67mm aspheric lens, running on 1a. Noticed how the beam isn't that strong even with the contrast higher?

I've decided that the XR-C didn't push enough lux so I went with something more stronger...A de-domed XR-E 7090 emitter. I pushed it on the same 1a and it was actually brighter.

Here's the beamshot on 1a. Forgive the darker contrast but it's actually much brighter in person. I love this thing on 2.8a but can't risk using it any longer than 1min.

UPDATE: Gotten everything aligned and the gap fixed. Here's the result of it all and I'll keep my mouth shut this time and let the photos do all the talking. The tree is 100yds away from my current location. Driver amperage is 0.350a, 1a, 2.8a.

 

[roadkill1109]

Looks like its going to be a beast of a throw! might want to measure how high the led rides on the new aluminum block. Because I was told by Crelant that they had to adjust the depth of the collimator head to ensure the maximum possible throw can be extracted from the XML led.

Just some things to consider when optimizing the light when the new pill arrives. :)

Good luck with your build! Looks exciting and promising!

 

[Tiresius]

The reason why I didn't factor that in was because of the viewing angle in the XRC is different than the XML. I can always size down the pill when needed to obtain the proper height but everything is on hold until the driver arrives.

 

[Gunner12]

I hope this doesn't deter you from the mod, but I di have a few concerns.

Saabluster probably had to do a lot of modding to get the XR-C to stand 1.4A without decreasing in output and life in his DEFT EDC (probably more extreme then soldering the LED directly to a copper heatspreader). A XR-C on a MCPCB might no take 1.4A that well, it might actually be brighter @ 1A. Also, thermal paste isn't a great heat conductor, it's just meant to fill in any air gaps between the two metal surfaces. It conducts more heat then air, and that is good enough.

I guess, if you can, try adjusting the drive current and seeing what gives you the max throw.

Seems like a cool mod!

 

[Tiresius]

I hope this doesn't deter you from the mod, but I di have a few concerns.

Saabluster probably had to do a lot of modding to get the XR-C to stand 1.4A without decreasing in output and life in his DEFT EDC (probably more extreme then soldering the LED directly to a copper heatspreader). A XR-C on a MCPCB might no take 1.4A that well, it might actually be brighter @ 1A. Also, thermal paste isn't a great heat conductor, it's just meant to fill in any air gaps between the two metal surfaces. It conducts more heat then air, and that is good enough.

I guess, if you can, try adjusting the drive current and seeing what gives you the max throw.

Seems like a cool mod!

Heat wasn't an issue since I'm running it 1min max at 2.8a. That's right. I'm pushing it beyond the bond wires can handle. The driver seemed to generate much more heat than the aluminum block or LED. I got fed up with the pencil beam the XR-C offered so I swapped it over to an XR-E de-domed. It produces so much more light and brighter hotspot--even at 1a. Also threw better due to the excised dome.

I'm pending on the XP-G2 to arrive to test. I'm starting to feel that pushing it past 100k lux with an aspheric has its drawback with visibility.

 

[The_Driver]

I hope this doesn't deter you from the mod, but I di have a few concerns.

Saabluster probably had to do a lot of modding to get the XR-C to stand 1.4A without decreasing in output and life in his DEFT EDC (probably more extreme then soldering the LED directly to a copper heatspreader). A XR-C on a MCPCB might no take 1.4A that well, it might actually be brighter @ 1A. Also, thermal paste isn't a great heat conductor, it's just meant to fill in any air gaps between the two metal surfaces. It conducts more heat then air, and that is good enough.

I guess, if you can, try adjusting the drive current and seeing what gives you the max throw.

Seems like a cool mod!

saabluster actually used a Cree XP-C Q4s in all of the DEFT EDCs.
For the 40klux version all he did was solder it directly to the copper heatsink (not pcb) and used a somewhat high quality lens. The heat transfer from the heatsink to the body was also good.
For the 60klux version he used hand-picked lenses and his special collar-/mirror-on-dome-technology (he never actually talks about this, because he wants to patent it a some point) which also causes the tint switch to neutral.
For the 72klux version he de-domed the XP-Cs (this also cause tint-shift to neutral).
For the 84klux version he used a much more expensive plastic lens and the 8 best out of 300 XP-Cs.

The leds vere always run at 1,4A (max. rated current is 500mA).

 

[Gunner12]

Yeah, I know he ran them all at 1.4A, just didn't know that he just solders the emitter to a copper heatsink. I thought he'd also do some mods to the LED itself.

Reflowed my first LED today. Gotta learn some solidworks so I can start designing and making my own lights, mayeb even my own optics if I can find a free or decently priced optical software (too lazy to do it on paper).

 

[The_Driver]

Yeah, I know he ran them all at 1.4A, just didn't know that he just solders the emitter to a copper heatsink. I thought he'd also do some mods to the LED itself.

Reflowed my first LED today. Gotta learn some solidworks so I can start designing and making my own lights, mayeb even my own optics if I can find a free or decently priced optical software (too lazy to do it on paper).

He did not just solder it directly to copper, did you read my post completely? (just trying to be of help here :) )
Only in the 40klux (the first run of DEFT EDCs) he didn't mod the led. In all the other versions afterwards that produced higher lux numbers the leds were modded.

 

[Gunner12]

I know he does optical mods, but for thermal stuff, I thought he'd also do some thermal mods as well. I like how he's pushing the limits.

 

[BLUE LED]

Heat wasn't an issue since I'm running it 1min max at 2.8a. That's right. I'm pushing it beyond the bond wires can handle. The driver seemed to generate much more heat than the aluminum block or LED. I got fed up with the pencil beam the XR-C offered so I swapped it over to an XR-E de-domed. It produces so much more light and brighter hotspot--even at 1a. Also threw better due to the excised dome.

I'm pending on the XP-G2 to arrive to test. I'm starting to feel that pushing it past 100k lux with an aspheric has its drawback with visibility.

You could try thick bond wires and a XR-E R2 EZ900 with the dome removed. This combined with the large aspheric should prove to be a great thrower. The only problem is that the hotspot, will be very small. Or should that be hot square.

 

[Tiresius]

You could try thick bond wires and a XR-E R2 EZ900 with the dome removed. This combined with the large aspheric should prove to be a great thrower. The only problem is that the hotspot, will be very small. Or should that be hot square.

I do not have an ez900 emitter or want to try it. I've already de-domed my current XR-E emitter and is running at 2.8a. The bond wires cannot be changed as they are in the emitter itself. However, my 20gauge wires does start to have sleeves melt. They're the guys that are used in car lighting. I'm somewhat excited about the throw because I have not been able to find a target far enough that the beam cannot hit.

 

[BLUE LED]

2.8A is very high :) and the EZ900 is quite expensive compared to the EZ1000. Are you running with 2x18650. I find the compact 2x18350 IMR variation too head heavy with the aspheric.

 

[Tiresius]

2.8A is very high :) and the EZ900 is quite expensive compared to the EZ1000. Are you running with 2x18650. I find the compact 2x18350 IMR variation too head heavy with the aspheric.

Driver won't handle <6v. I am not running IMR cells on this as they will increase dramatically on heat.

 

[Tatjanamagic]

That is nice...

Your de-domed XR-E 7090 emitter looks like in 150 +mph category.

Our member Luminater says that de-doming does not work in aspheric... Her we can all see that it works!

 

[Tiresius]

That is nice...

Your de-domed XR-E 7090 emitter looks like in 150 +mph category.

Our member Luminater says that de-doming does not work in aspheric... Her we can all see that it works!

A de-domed XR-E emits an extremely small beem and will only becomes useful at X>100yds. The intensity becomes more prevalent when pushed very hard. It doesn't very work well and that's because most folks will run it 1.4a max. I've pushed mines twice the power.

XR-C on the 2.8a, the light isn't that bright as opposed to a domed XR-E at 1a. That's the reason why I went over to XR-E.

I have seen this beem go about a mile distance but with low visibility at that distance. Anything below 1/2 mile is no problem. Am having problems learning how to film dark shots with a digital camera.

 

[Tatjanamagic]

I am having problem to take nice pictures also... So I just don't take them... I think Your XRE goes well over 200KCD...

And It should go far even on 1,5 amp driver and U would not harm led or emitter...

 

[Tiresius]

I am having problem to take nice pictures also... So I just don't take them... I think Your XRE goes well over 200KCD...

And It should go far even on 1,5 amp driver and U would not harm led or emitter...

I guess everyone overlooked the second post near the end. It's running on 2.8a :D

 

[HighlanderNorth]

What is it going to be useful for if it only puts a 3' wide beam at 100 yards? Unless you are viewing the subject you are shining the light on through a scope or binoculars, you probably wont be able to see much with a beam that small. If you are shining it on something closer, then the beam should be much smaller, and there doesnt appear to be any spill to speak of.

Maybe I'm just missing the point...

 

[Tiresius]

What is it going to be useful for if it only puts a 3' wide beam at 100 yards? Unless you are viewing the subject you are shining the light on through a scope or binoculars, you probably wont be able to see much with a beam that small. If you are shining it on something closer, then the beam should be much smaller, and there doesnt appear to be any spill to speak of.

Maybe I'm just missing the point...

The whole idea is throw and nothing more. At 100yds, it's roughly 1ft so big enough to light someone's face up. At 10ft, the beam is the size of a quarter

What is it useful for? Nothing but the joy and excitement of holding a light that'll go far. I have other lights that can fulfill other needs this one lacks. Plus, I can show this one off to folks who never seen an LED light that can do this.