Cu ground bar heatsink

Oogabooga

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Feb 10, 2015
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Hey guys,
I got my hands on a 2"x12" copper grounding bar, and decided to use it as a heatsink for LEDs. After doing a heat test, with the bar about 1/2 populated with some cheap LEDS, I determined it needed more surface area to dump the heat that it would hold - it would get HOT.
I went out and purchased 2 CPU coolers, tapped the holes on the bases for 8-32 threads, applied some thermal compound, and attached them to the ground bar. Did the same heat test, and it barely went a degree above ambient.
I was tempted to go the way of this dead thread:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?398630-XHP70-crude-test
and slap on a bunch of xhp-70s, but i'm no Scrooge McDuck.

finished album: http://imgur.com/a/Pt5cd


I'm using the light to grow house plants indoors, i've noticed good results with certain ratios of colours, will update later when i can show you what i mean with pictures as well as text.

I've seen alot of people who drill and tap aluminum or copper heatsinks, but it seems redundant, you can drill and use thread forming screws - no chance of breaking a tap and saves time. During the drilling and screwing, I started with a bit that was a little too small, and snapped off a screw flush with the heatsink :(. I did some searching on the internet and found a solution. Soaking the parts in an alum bath - i put them in a large ziploc (with alum and water) and immersed the bag in a hotwater bath in a crockpot. I left this for a few days and the screw dissolved, leaving a perfectly intact Cu bar.

The LEDs and drivers are in the mail, they should be here by next week, so i'll update soon.
 
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Oogabooga

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Feb 10, 2015
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apologies, delays of at least a week - i ordered slightly wrong drivers, and still need to order a couple more things..
LEDs im using:
XML NW x4
XML2 CW x2
semileds 425-430nm x2
rebel es 475nm x2
rebel es PC amber x1
luxeon rebel es 620nm x3
luxeon rebel es 660nm x6
semileds far red 720-750nm x3
semileds infrared 840-870m, x2

Everything will be running at 700mA dimmable, except for the xmls, which will be at 3A dimmable.
I haven't experimented too much with the effects of far red/infrared so i decided to put some in to **** around with.
The PC amber is a new one for me too.
 

Steve K

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Jun 10, 2002
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Location
Peoria, IL
there's something special about a big chunk of copper.... hefty, colorful, and a great conductor of heat and electrons!
Aluminum tends to be cheaper to use for thermal purposes, though, which is why it ends up as heatsinks and such. It polishes up nicely too, although I only do that for my aluminum bike parts, and not for heatsinks. :)
 

Dr. Mario

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Mar 4, 2010
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459
I do occasionally use Brasso on my PC heatsinks so I can be certain it's quite CLEAN before I reuse them in my computers (I do DIY build - will do new build soon after AMD Zen processors gets stocked).

Copper is excellent for usage as the heatsink material - ie. it has lower thermal resistance than Aluminum. But, it's not used much as the common PC heatsink because of its price, so Aluminum is the most common material for usage in the heatsink. Can you say polished milled Copper flashlight? :D
 

SemiMan

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Jan 13, 2005
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Can you say not-polished as polished copper (and aluminum for that matter) are terrible emitters of heat.
 

Oogabooga

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Feb 10, 2015
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Hey guys, I apologize, next time i start a build thread, I'll make sure i have everything or am done building. 24V PSU and reflectors are backordered, waiting on a reply back from supplier as to when they'll be available.

I decided to go with low voltage DC/DC drivers, as opposed to the way I'm used to - AC/DC drivers. one of the fixtures i built used a single driver that supplied 700mA at 210vdc. This was before I was fully aware of how dangerous high voltage DC can be, luckily I was cautious and made sure everything was properly grounded/bonded.

Anyways, I did some more work - added the rest of the LEDs and wired the 4 different strings. Will be adding some kind of junction box in the near future to house the joints where the feed comes in from the PSU/drivers.
The feed is 12 conductor 20ga stranded:
8 for 4 channels of LEDs
2 for 24vdc (feeds an 8v regulator for the fans)
1 ground + 1 spare

Things still to add:
-feed and PSU/drivers
-hanging brackets
-thermal switches to heatsink (likely not needed, will determine at full load with no fans)
-8v regulator to heatsink
-Some kind of nice looking cowling/cover
- nice looking case for PSU/drivers

Pictures: http://imgur.com/a/Pt5cd
 

Oogabooga

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Feb 10, 2015
Messages
33
Hey everyone:

The fixture is functionally complete. There are still some more aesthetic bits that need to be completed like a cover for the 10x10 box, maybe a cowling for the light. O
ther than that, the light is up and very bright.
Just added a lignum vitae to the small collection. I grew this one from seed and it has been living at my moms house. Has some scale that i need to treat.
This wood smells amazing when you turn it on the lathe, and it can take such a nice finish due to its hardness and resin content

Here is the album
http://imgur.com/a/Pt5cd

The pictures tell most of the story
 

Oogabooga

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Feb 10, 2015
Messages
33
thanks. they do work great, i probably should've purchased more compact ones
 

Oogabooga

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Feb 10, 2015
Messages
33
The plants are responding extremely well to the light, the lignum vitae has sprouted 12 new branches in the past two weeks, where its previous location, in a bay window, it was growing maybe 4 a month, also was being watered by someone else, so not perfect comparison.
Previous to this build, i didn't use too many FR/IR (>700nm) leds.
The addition of the FR/IR seems to be quite beneficial.
 

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