Custom LED driving lights

tgeo7

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Oct 30, 2012
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1
Hi people,

I'm new here. I'm interested in build a LED driving light system to my Suzuki. Found a build guide on the web:http://www.bigjimny.com/index.php/f...-spotlights-complete-build-guide?limitstart=0

I need suggestions regarding the build and LED specifications. Maybe i should update some of the build characteristics.

What do i need? A nice and good throw for driving in remote areas. I did try to read about it, but still a complete dummie.

If you may, post links to the parts as well. I'll be deeply gratefull. I live in South America and no local shops to ask. I usually buy from DealExtreme, thought.

Regards,

tgeo7
 
If you can´t fully understand the explanation on the link, then you´d rather buy some stuff already done, proved and tested. You need some skills to make something relatively complicated to work properly without make it melt in a few hours. You will find a wide variety of productss on the net. Cheers.
 
Yep, that's one cool offroad light bar.

For public roads in most countries, the build your own approach is all but impossible unless you're really weathy and have a LOT of time to get the design tested and approved.
For off in the woods where you don't have to meet any legal lighting standards, it can be a lot of fun to make up your own system and see how it works.

Good luck. Have fun.
 
Looks to me his figure are grossly over rated.
Each spotlight uses 30W of power. Each spotlight contains 3x10W Cree XML LEDs. As I have 4 of these, thats a total of 120W of power. If you go off the spec sheet for the Cree XML LEDs, this will produce approx. 12000 Lumens of light. This is close to the 40" LED Bar from BajaDesigns which cost $1080USD, and as they claim, is equivelant to 4 HIDs.

Norm
 
Something like this: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?341528-6XML-light-bar wired into your highbeam circuit (so they turn off when you dip to low beam) might fill your need. This way all of the engineering and fabrication is already done and you are supporting a fellow forum member.

Dave

Even 2 T6 XM-L LEDs per housing would be better than most automotive headlights available....
Thought then you have to deal with figuring out how to build and implement them, and make sure you are turning your highbeams off when appropriate, otherwise you would probably end up getting pulled over.
 
Not in any real or actual sense, no.

The headlights for my truck, which are 9004's are rated 1200LM @ 65W on the high beams. 2 XM-Ls would total over 2000LM. make the right housing for them and they would be better.
Other cars might have brighter High beams (9007's are 1250LM), but two XM-Ls should still be close
 
Headlights for public roads aren't meant to emphasize output. Most things are more important: Durability, not causing glare to driver, not dazzling other drivers on the road, ability to see to the side, ability to survive vibration, heat, and voltage range, etc. Check the laws! They aren't there to cripple your ability to see. They're there to keep the roads safe for other drivers.

Edit: Scheinman (Scheinwerfermann) put it better than I did. Read down there vvvvvvv
 
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The headlights for my truck, which are 9004's are rated 1200LM @ 65W on the high beams. 2 XM-Ls would total over 2000LM

Sure -- but raw light source output figures like these aren't the right thing to talk about when we're discussing vehicle lighting performance. What matters is flux in beam and how it's distributed.
 
Headlights for public roads aren't meant to emphasize output.

That's not actually true the way it's written, but it looks like you didn't quite mean it the way it came out. It looks to me like you meant to point out (correctly) that vehicle lamps are not spot lights or flood lights or flashlights where the one and only goal is maximum possible output, end of story. Rather, car lights must meet a relatively long list of competing goals: strong output so the driver can see as far and wide as possible, careful control of how the light is distributed, not just a random forward spray of light, so other road users won't be blinded (and neither will the driver from backscatter in bad weather), as well as the physical characteristics you mention -- resistance to vibration, temperature extremes, UV exposure and abrasion, water and dirt entry, etc.
 
That's not actually true the way it's written, but it looks like you didn't quite mean it the way it came out. It looks to me like you meant to point out (correctly) that vehicle lamps are not spot lights or flood lights or flashlights where the one and only goal is maximum possible output, end of story. Rather, car lights must meet a relatively long list of competing goals: strong output so the driver can see as far and wide as possible, careful control of how the light is distributed, not just a random forward spray of light, so other road users won't be blinded (and neither will the driver from backscatter in bad weather), as well as the physical characteristics you mention -- resistance to vibration, temperature extremes, UV exposure and abrasion, water and dirt entry, etc.

Which is why i was stating that if all these issues are addressed, and they certainly can be, then alternative LED Headlights would be better than standard filament bulbs and probably just as good or better than projector-based HIDs (which are much brighter than filament bulbs and the way the projector is designed keeps them from glaring too much)

Worrying about Glare becomes moot when you flip on your high beams in most cars anyways. that's why you're suppose to turn them off if there is someone in front of you.
 
Which is why i was stating that if all these issues are addressed, and they certainly can be, then alternative LED Headlights would be better than standard filament bulbs and probably just as good or better than projector-based HIDs (which are much brighter than filament bulbs and the way the projector is designed keeps them from glaring too much)

Worrying about Glare becomes moot when you flip on your high beams in most cars anyways. that's why you're suppose to turn them off if there is someone in front of you.

These are expensive issues to address. Do you have a cool coupla thousand for the photometric tests to demonstrate safety? A safe driving beam pattern is tough to create with LEDs, especially in a demanding environment. The short version:

Design lamp. Design optics. Design electronics. Account for huge voltage ripple, high heat tolerance, and invulnerable waterproofing. Design lamp to produce upward-facing sign-reading light, side-reaching shoulder lights, a dash of light nearby and a correct driving beam far away, with reliable materials to survive a years of use. Oh, and you can't use any lens materials that haven't sat in Arizona for 3 years.

Next, using expensive lab time, prove photometric compliance for one car. Rinse and repeat for the next.
 
Design lamp. Design optics. Design electronics. Account for huge voltage ripple, high heat tolerance, and invulnerable waterproofing. Design lamp to produce upward-facing sign-reading light, side-reaching shoulder lights, a dash of light nearby and a correct driving beam far away, with reliable materials to survive a years of use. Oh, and you can't use any lens materials that haven't sat in Arizona for 3 years.[/QUOTE]

Piece of cake! no wonder why Audi R8's led headlights is a 10000 euro option...
 
Question: If a light is all legal and works great in one vehicle, is it OK in another?
Suppose for example that I saw a late model Audi or Mercedes or something that had great headlights.
Suppose I bought a set and then grafted them into my old 1956 International (yes, mine is 12 volt though Dad's isn't).
I know it would look weird, but would it still be a legal vehicle?

Given all the expense involved, this is probably a more logical approach on public highways than rolling your own. I must admit, though, it's fun to fool around off the road and see what light reaches way down a logging road or which one lights up a field. . .
 
No. Part of the photometric design is how it's mounted (Height above road and placement along bumper, position relative to other signals, etc).
 
No. Part of the photometric design is how it's mounted (Height above road and placement along bumper, position relative to other signals, etc).

I suppose this means that although true HID retrofits (using HID projectors) are considered safe, they would not be considered legal?
 
I suppose this means that although true HID retrofits (using HID projectors) are considered safe, they would not be considered legal?

Well, if you put OEM HID lamp units in, say, a base-model car whose moneybags model has HID lamps, then you're set - because the OEM has done all that pile o' testing. But generally, no. I can't get just any HID bulb and stick it in, say, my 1996 Geo Metro 2-door, because the bumper height is so much lower than any current Geo (Including a hypothetical one with HID lamps).
 
Acura TSX projectors and Honda S2000 projectors are commonly sought-after as "legit" HID adaptations to many vehicles. For example, I own a 2005 Acura MDX with H11 halogen projectors; many people take those out and install Acura TSX projectors in their place. While widely considered the "right" way to do HID, it's still not legal to do, correct?
 
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