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DB700 or DB1000 & 5w?

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StoneDog

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Can a DB700 (or DB1000) be used with a 5w emitter and either 9v or 12v Vin?

Jon
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

So if I were to oufit a Mag 2C with one of the shoppe's U??U's, a DB1000 and a HotLips heatsink it should be able to handle either either 3x123 or 4x123? According to the led_pro program runtimes should be about 80 min and 110 min respectively. Does that sound about right?

Jon
 
I doubt they run such a long period in regulation.

Vf of U??U can be 7.5 V at 1 amp. 7.5 V x 1 amp = 7.5 watts. Assuming the converter efficiency is 83%, the batteries need to provide: 7.5 watts / 83 % = 9 watts. With 3x123, this means 3 watts per cell. With this high load, I guestimate it runs 30 minutes in regulation.

With 4x123, 9 watts total is 2.25 watts per cell. I guess it can run an hour or so.
 
It might make more sense to decide on a battery config and use a resistor to limit current a bit. Or just stick with 3x123 and direct drive...

Thanks for your help jtice and kj.

Jon
 
To tell the truth, I want you to try it since I want to see the actual data /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

BTW, with DB700, the power consumption of LED is about 5 watts and the battery power requirement is about 6 watts. In this case, I believe 3x123 will run over an hour (but less than 1.5 hours) in regulation.
 
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I know that BB's are less efficient the farther Vin is from Vf. Is that the same for DownBoy converters?

Seems a waste to run a 5w @ 700ma in something the size of a Mag 2C. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Jon
 
The DB converts are alot more effeciant vs. the BBs.
[EDIT] Still like the BBs, staying close to Vf will help. About .5V above I think is a good place to be.

You have to remember though, LED_Pro depends on the user entering VERY accurate data.
Which is very hard to do.
For one thing, Voltage of batteries drops under load.
If a batt reads 3.5V, its probably only 3V underload.

Also, there is contraversy over a 1300mAh actually letting you use ALL 1300mAh. So that doesnt help.

LED_Pro is ment to give you a ballpark range of runtime. Not exact readings.
In my experience, LED_Pro is alittle generous on its runtimes.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

I have a 2C mag, with a TWAK LuxIII, and a DB1227.... and wow is it a really nice light.
ALothough, for 1 and 3W leds, I do not recommend goign over 1000mA, you wont really notice a difference in brightness, and you will loose alot of runtime.
 
Sorry, I don't have that data and I cannot say for sure. Does someone know the DB's behavior?
 
[ QUOTE ]
jtice said:
The DB converts are alot more effeciant vs. the BBs.
[EDIT] Still like the BBs, staying close to Vf will help. About .5V above I think is a good place to be.

You have to remember though, LED_Pro depends on the user entering VERY accurate data.
Which is very hard to do.
For one thing, Voltage of batteries drops under load.
If a batt reads 3.5V, its probably only 3V underload.

Also, there is contraversy over a 1300mAh actually letting you use ALL 1300mAh. So that doesnt help.

LED_Pro is ment to give you a ballpark range of runtime. Not exact readings.
In my experience, LED_Pro is alittle generous on its runtimes.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

I have a 2C mag, with a TWAK LuxIII, and a DB1227.... and wow is it a really nice light.
ALothough, for 1 and 3W leds, I do not recommend goign over 1000mA, you wont really notice a difference in brightness, and you will loose alot of runtime.

[/ QUOTE ]

That sounds like what I want to do for my next light. Is it run on 3x123?

How much less bright would an S bin lux be 15 lumens?
 
Yes, 3x123.

Shouldnt be that much dimmer.
What ever the difference is on the Bin chart.
Is that where you got the 15 lumens # from?
 
jtice, I've ordered a DB 1000 to drive a TW0K off 3x123, so I'm curious what the run-time is like for your DB1227-TWAK-3x123 setup.
 
Off topic, I just realized I could have a Mag 2C Lux3 @ 1a and a Mag 2C 5w for what I put into my PM6 5w McModule... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif

Jon
 
dang stone, how much did you put into that thing?

Where can I get a Db 1000 I still have not sceen them for sale at the shop /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Is it worth driving an SX1J bin lux of 3x123 or should I look into getting a T-bin to make it worth while? I want a really bright light that can maintain a constant brightness. (most importantly I want it to be really bright)
 
Shane,
I am not sure on the runtime yet, I havent used it all that much. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif
Should be about 50 to 65 minutes ,,, I think. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

Stone,
tsk tsk tsk

Justin,
I dont think you would ever notice, until you held it next to a T bin.
Even then, there is the Luxeon lottery, so they might end up being very close. And not make a diff at all.

The mags make great TIGHT beams.
You still get a few beam artifacts, but nothing like a stock mag.
 
Justintoxicated:

you can buy DB blanks at the shop and solder on two 0.1ohm resistors yourself to make a DB1000, or pay 3$ and have it done before it ships. If you are anywhere nearly as clumsy as me /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif, I'd say let the pros do the soldering.

btw I think the blanks sell like hot buns...
 
Justintoxicated,

Taking everything into account:
PM6 from Botach $35
Clickie/UCL $20
McModule $18
BB700 $22
V2T $40 :S
Misc/Shipping $10

OK, so maybe it wouldn't completely cover two Mag 2C conversions, but it would come very close. If I could sell my McModule for anything close to what I have in it I probably would. Silver lining: the McModule seems to have better/longer output that a stock L4. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

And yes, unless you're really good with a soldering iron (two actually), leave those little resistors to Dat2Zip.


I'd like to try a 5w in a Mag reflector that's been heavily sputtered - I'd like to see if it opens up the beam any.

Jon
 
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