Destroyed LGI

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I was wondering if the thread could be peened so that it wouldn't screw down any more than the blocked thread?

My SLGI is in my "No Touch" box. But, I'm concerned that someone might think I won't bury a fork in their softspot like the sign warns and get my SLGI out just sose they can see if they can tighten it down'n watch the lens crack.

BC
 
[ QUOTE ]
ubermensch said:
NOOOO! Use Arctic Alumina! Pretty sure Arctic Silver would short out the luxeon, as it is electrically conducive.

[/ QUOTE ]


Nope
if you see AS' website, you will see that they said the AS is not electrically conductive. It is just ever so slightly capacitive. But yes, i agree to use AA instead. Any usage of AS only for heatsink to body attachment and for lux and heatsink, use AA. It is safer and cheaper too /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
ksbman,

Its a been there, done that for me. The last dealership I worked in, my lifts were the second ones from the sales department (right by the back parts counter /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif ). I had to b*tch out more than one salesman about violating the sanctity of my tool box. I never go through their desks, why should they not extend the same courtesy to me? You should have seen the sparks fly one Saturday when one went to move my motorcycle without my permission. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif But that's a story for another time.

Now, back to the problem at hand. The use of Arctic Silver epoxy is permissible on white, green, cyan, blue and royal blue emitters, as their slugs are either electrically isolated or negative in their charge. If an amber, red or orange-red emitter is used, then the use of Arctic Alumina epoxy is desired, as their slugs are electrically hot. The heat transference capability of AS is slightly better than AA, but I've yet to hear of anyone overheating an emitter because they chose one over the other. Have fun! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

MrMom,

The set screw is a great idea, its something a mechanic will surely appreciate (especially if its something trick /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif ). /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Dan
 
i loctited the head on my brinkmann 3aa.

it's not "permanent", but heck if i can get the thing off!
 
If you didn't want to drill and tap for a set screw through the head, you could just drill a hole in the body just below the head and tap in a short piece of drill rod as a stop.


GregR
 
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I like the setscrew idea, but I want to drill a small hole in the body in the exact proper location for the screw to "lock" into so that the threads on the body don't get ruined. If necessary the hole can be slightly elongated to allow for minor adjustment.
 
my mmm+ has an unentintional setscrew.

i drilled and tapped a 6-32 hole in the head for a titanium clip, and it stops the head from rotating too far beyond a certain point.
 
it always amuses sometimes when i see friends try to figure out how to turn on my surefires let alone the mcluxes, now i shudder to think if i will laugh the next time when something like this could happen.
i guess the problem is they just are not up to speed on the development of different types of switches that are on flashlights. i am pretty sure oney day, someone is gonna pick up my sf and turn the head and failing that, will try to bang the flashlight to make it turn on. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/faint.gif
 
The horror stories of flashlights trashed by 'people' who don't respect other peoples' property. Makes you wonder if they are saboteurs working for a certain company in Ontario, CA. May all of their lights permanently fail to function when their lives really, truly, and absolutely depend on them working!!!
 
idea stolen from shankus
As far as the brass AA collar and button, I've found that it solves some problems on my Mini-Mag:
2. Keeps the head from screwing down too far (I set it to just the right place).

make a collar and then use a setscrew on the collar. the collar acts as a stop from screwing the head down to far
 
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