1 update since I was asked more about the light, it's not merely putting direct drive to the pill, the vast amounts of heat generated by the led must be wicked away as fast as possible. This thing will get dangerously hot if left alone. The head gets to 120 degrees in about 3 minutes, meaning my heatsinking job worked. But it will continue to rise if it's not being held, when held it tends to stabilize at about 110 degrees warm but not hot. Runtime is about 1 hour to 50% power, 1 amp in this case, then I get another 40 minutes or so until cell protection kicks in, this is on Trustfire 2400 mah protected cells.
What I did was remove the emitter board because it was glued with what looked to be only silicone caulk, I then cleaned off the glue and sanded the pill machining till it was flat, no ridges. Then I sanded the emitter board till it's sanding marks were gone. This leaves two perfectly flat surfaces. I then used arctic silver epoxy to re-glue the board to the pill making sure to press out any extra glue and air bubbles also filled in the gaps between the board edges and the pill to maximize heat conduction. After this I applied arctic silver heatsink grease to the threads of the pill where it screws into the reflector. To transfer heat to the body I also tightly wrapped, not crumbled, aluminum foil around the reflector so that it completely wedges itself tightly into the bezel, which has the anodizing sanded off the inside to further the heat transfer. And where the bezel screws to the body is sand blasted, with an airbrush sander to remove anodizing, and it is lubed with heatsink grease too.
So just saying this is no simple project since such a high power mod will no doubt fry normal flashlights as probably evident by the posts here with fried high brightness Q5's and P7 flashlights. Strangely enough the 5 mode Aurora P7 flashlight on DX now shows an honest to goodness solid copper heatsink pill, while earlier makes made do with brass, and mine a brass aluminum brass sandwich.