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The football shaped beams are common on SureFire lamp assemblies, most of them "suffer" from this, while a few aren't as bad/good... SF would probably tell you that it is a "feature" and not a "problem" but everyone has different opinions about what makes a beam shape more useful. The argument is that the football shaped beam can be turned vertical to illuminate a human target from head to toe, or turned on it's side to illuminate a wide swath of path in front of you... I personally find the oblong beams distracting and would actually rather have rings and other artifacts in the beam than such an oblong hotspot. My MN20 for my M6 is like that and for that reason, I don't use that lamp.
As for the output comparison...
As you can see in the photo, the camera did a pretty good job of distinguishing the difference between these 2 lamps. But human eyes are different. You have just learned one of the hardest lessons of flashlights, and that is, that the lumens don't matter as much as one might hope or think they would. Human eyes adjust on the fly for variations in lighting conditions. It has been said, that it takes about a 30% difference in output to even be able to see that difference. And I would have to agree with that 100%. What's more important is choosing a flashlight within a range of acceptable lumens, that has all the other features you are looking for. Beam shape and user interface and build material/quality are often all more important than lumen ratings when comparing lights that are "in the same ballpark" of lumen ratings. When I say "ballpark" I mean like a full doubling or halving of the lumen rating. Everything from 50-100 lumens is in the same ballpark. 100-200 lumens, same ballpark, 3000-6000 lumens, same ballpark. The difference between 50 and 100 lumens will look like a "step" brighter but if both lights have the same beam shape they will probably both perform pretty much all of the same tasks nearly equally well. There are also may cases where a 100 lumen light could be more useful than a 500 lumen light, if it has the proper beam profile for the task at hand.
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If you want to "fix" your oblong beam, the best solution is to use an aftermarket bulb instead of the P90. Most of the D26 compatible bulbs from alternative companies that I have seen, have very round beam shapes. LumensFactory is pretty popular.... You might consider trying a LumensFactory HO-9 in your G3. It would be like ~160 "surefire" lumens and should appear to have a slightly better lead over the E2D in total output. It has a nice round hotspot with a smooth transition from spot to spill. It does use about 30% more power so expect less runtime than the P90. Instead of an hour, I'd expect closer to 45 minutes on 3 CR123s.
