Driver question

[NoShoulder]

Can I use this driver: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13557 MR16 1*3W 320~350mA Constant Current Regulated LED Driver (12~16V Input)

with this emitter:http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.16145 Cree XLamp MC-E K0-WG 370~700-Lumen LED Emitter on 20mm Star Board (MCE-WG-K0)

I'm trying to learn, but I don't know where to start except shoot in the dark - which after all, we're all trying to shed light on

 

[NoShoulder]

Can I use this driver: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13557 MR16 1*3W 320~350mA Constant Current Regulated LED Driver (12~16V Input)

with this emitter:http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.16145 Cree XLamp MC-E K0-WG 370~700-Lumen LED Emitter on 20mm Star Board (MCE-WG-K0)

I'm trying to learn, but I don't know where to start except shoot in the dark - which after all, we're all trying to shed light on

This is not a very active forum is it?

NS

 

[JS Tyro]

You expect an answer while most of America sleeps?

 

[NoShoulder]

:twothumbs

I participate on another forum and the posts come so fast that I can barely get back to my questions before they get pushed off the bottom of the page by new posts.

It was just a comment.

However, I see there have been a number of "reads" but no replies since 7:23 PM last night. I guess in my lack of knowledge, I imagine everyone else can easily answer my questions, and so I wonder why they don't. But then I noticed that even my unanswered post is still on page one. So I made a comment.

have a good morning.

NS

 

[pe2er]

Can I use this driver: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13557 MR16 1*3W 320~350mA Constant Current Regulated LED Driver (12~16V Input)

with this emitter:http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.16145 Cree XLamp MC-E K0-WG 370~700-Lumen LED Emitter on 20mm Star Board (MCE-WG-K0)

The answer to your question is Yes. You can use this driver with this LED. Neither the driver nor the emitter will be damaged.

However, it is not the most cost-effective solution. The 320~350mA driver is for a 1 Watt LED. The MCE is a ~9W LED. Maximum drive current for the MCE is about 2800mA.

So you can use this driver with a cheaper (1W) LED and get the same amount of light, or use the MCE LED with a more capable driver and get way more light :naughty:

 

[NoShoulder]

The answer to your question is Yes. You can use this driver with this LED. Neither the driver nor the emitter will be damaged.

However, it is not the most cost-effective solution. The 320~350mA driver is for a 1 Watt LED. The MCE is a ~9W LED. Maximum drive current for the MCE is about 2800mA.

So you can use this driver with a cheaper (1W) LED and get the same amount of light, or use the MCE LED with a more capable driver and get way more light :naughty:

Thank you very much. Would that be something like the "bflex"? It's Greek to me but I'm trying to learn Greek I guess.

NS

 

[pe2er]

The Cutter BFLEX driver is a 'bike specific' 1000mA driver. It would let the MCE emit more light than the 350mA driver, but stll not the maximum amount.

'Bike specific' meaning that the user Interface (UI) is more specific for use as bicycle lighting, as opposed to the normal 'Flashlight Specific' drivers you get at Dx and kaidomain etc.

If you want a cheap driver for an MCE or SSC P7 light, use something like the Regulated CV/CC LED Driver Circuit Board for Cree MC-E/SSC P7 Emitters (8.4V Max Input)

If you want better quality, or have specific requirements for the input voltage and don't mind paying a little more, use one of the Cutter or Taskled drivers.

 

[herulach]

The Cutter BFLEX driver is a 'bike specific' 1000mA driver. It would let the MCE emit more light than the 350mA driver, but stll not the maximum amount.

'Bike specific' meaning that the user Interface (UI) is more specific for use as bicycle lighting, as opposed to the normal 'Flashlight Specific' drivers you get at Dx and kaidomain etc.

If you want a cheap driver for an MCE or SSC P7 light, use something like the Regulated CV/CC LED Driver Circuit Board for Cree MC-E/SSC P7 Emitters (8.4V Max Input)

If you want better quality, or have specific requirements for the input voltage and don't mind paying a little more, use one of the Cutter or Taskled drivers.

<pedant mode> The cutter bFlex driver is a Taskled driver</pedant mode>

The first driver you linked is likely to dissapoint you - however, there is nothing wrong with using a bFlex to drive an MCE.

The reason for this is that they are 4 dies in one package, but, you can connect each LED separately, so you effectively have the following options:
All Parallel (4p) 3.7V, max drive current c.2.8A
2 Series 2 Parallel (2s2p) 7.4V max drive current c.1.4A
4 Series (4s) 14.8V, max drive current c.700ma.

I assume this is related to your other thread, in which case to use your existing 12V battery you'll either need a Boost Driver and wire the MCE 4s (boost brings battery voltage up) - a fatman or maxflex from Taskled would be good. Alternatively you could use a Buck driver and wire 2s2p, a bFlex would do this, albiet the maximum drive current is 1A, so you won't get quite as bright as is possible otherwise.

The 3rd option is to wire 4p, however powering that with a 12V battery is going to be very inefficient.

 

[NoShoulder]

<pedant mode> The cutter bFlex driver is a Taskled driver</pedant mode>

The first driver you linked is likely to dissapoint you - however, there is nothing wrong with using a bFlex to drive an MCE.

The reason for this is that they are 4 dies in one package, but, you can connect each LED separately, so you effectively have the following options:
All Parallel (4p) 3.7V, max drive current c.2.8A
2 Series 2 Parallel (2s2p) 7.4V max drive current c.1.4A
4 Series (4s) 14.8V, max drive current c.700ma.

I assume this is related to your other thread, in which case to use your existing 12V battery you'll either need a Boost Driver and wire the MCE 4s (boost brings battery voltage up) - a fatman or maxflex from Taskled would be good. Alternatively you could use a Buck driver and wire 2s2p, a bFlex would do this, albiet the maximum drive current is 1A, so you won't get quite as bright as is possible otherwise.

The 3rd option is to wire 4p, however powering that with a 12V battery is going to be very inefficient.

I really appreciate this last two posts. I guess what I need to do, in addition to whatever I choose from these suggestions is to ask: Is there a glossary of terms or tutorial I could read. There are basic terms you guys toss around, but I'm just not catching on. Eg, "buck puck". I know there are puck sized and shaped lights. So, I guess the driver is one that fits in those lights? But, "buck"? Also, I'll have to re-read slowly your suggestions. I'm sure they're simple, but they are unfamiliar to me.

Thanks again.

NoShoulder

 

[herulach]

I really appreciate this last two posts. I guess what I need to do, in addition to whatever I choose from these suggestions is to ask: Is there a glossary of terms or tutorial I could read. There are basic terms you guys toss around, but I'm just not catching on. Eg, "buck puck". I know there are puck sized and shaped lights. So, I guess the driver is one that fits in those lights? But, "buck"? Also, I'll have to re-read slowly your suggestions. I'm sure they're simple, but they are unfamiliar to me.

Thanks again.

NoShoulder

There are two basica kind of LED drivers, Buck drivers, which reduce the voltage (so batttery voltage can be greater than LED voltage) and boost driver,s which increase the voltage. Both of these are sometimes referred to as pucks, I have no idea why.

It's important to have a driver because LEDs need to be driven at a constant current rather than a constant voltage. This can be done just using resistors, but it's not very efficient, and the light will dim significantly as the battery discharges.

As far as a glossary, there probably is one, but I don't know where. MrAl has a fantasticly in depth thread that will cover off everything you need to know here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=53985&highlight=CPF+University

Just set aside a couple of days to read it ;) (You can skip most if you did high school math & electronics)

 

[NoShoulder]

There are two basica kind of LED drivers, Buck drivers, which reduce the voltage (so batttery voltage can be greater than LED voltage) and boost driver,s which increase the voltage. Both of these are sometimes referred to as pucks, I have no idea why.

It's important to have a driver because LEDs need to be driven at a constant current rather than a constant voltage. This can be done just using resistors, but it's not very efficient, and the light will dim significantly as the battery discharges.

As far as a glossary, there probably is one, but I don't know where. MrAl has a fantasticly in depth thread that will cover off everything you need to know here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=53985&highlight=CPF+University

Just set aside a couple of days to read it ;) (You can skip most if you did high school math & electronics)

Oops, I didn't do electronics. Well, study time for me then - thanks again.

NS