While a few people were working on the 'Elly' mods that LFP first demonstrated, was tackling a different beast - the DX Vinet. Here are the features:
Water-resistant (dunkable)
Dual-mode 100mW burn, 10mW presentation
Powered on 3V CR123 battery
Glass front lens
Integrated heatsinking of the diode
The reflector has to be removed from the front by prying, as the front finned body piece is screwed and glued on to the body of the light. Fom there, you have to uncrew the light fixture out with pin spanners, remove the LED, and drill a hole into the light fixture for the laser case. Then mount the laser case with arctic silver heatsink epoxy.
Pop the rear circuit board out of the light fixture and solder a SMD 2uF cap across the leads, connect the power to the diode, and re-assemble and insert the light fixture.
Now remove the tailcap switch and using pin spanners unscrew the switch holder ring. Remove the switch circuit board and desolder the left of the row of three switch legs. route a 1 Ohm resistor from this leg to the solder point of the resistor next to it. Now replace the built-in resistor with a 15 Ohm resistor and re-assemble the switch tailcap.
Add a CR123 3V battery and you're done! Be sure not to reverse the battery polarity!
Water-resistant (dunkable)
Dual-mode 100mW burn, 10mW presentation
Powered on 3V CR123 battery
Glass front lens
Integrated heatsinking of the diode
The reflector has to be removed from the front by prying, as the front finned body piece is screwed and glued on to the body of the light. Fom there, you have to uncrew the light fixture out with pin spanners, remove the LED, and drill a hole into the light fixture for the laser case. Then mount the laser case with arctic silver heatsink epoxy.
Pop the rear circuit board out of the light fixture and solder a SMD 2uF cap across the leads, connect the power to the diode, and re-assemble and insert the light fixture.
Now remove the tailcap switch and using pin spanners unscrew the switch holder ring. Remove the switch circuit board and desolder the left of the row of three switch legs. route a 1 Ohm resistor from this leg to the solder point of the resistor next to it. Now replace the built-in resistor with a 15 Ohm resistor and re-assemble the switch tailcap.
Add a CR123 3V battery and you're done! Be sure not to reverse the battery polarity!
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