Eagletac P10a review

f22shift

Flashlight Enthusiast
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Jun 4, 2007
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well, i got my eagletac pd10a last week. that's the 1aa version. it's a fwd clickie with a twist hi/lo. very simple design. the emitter is a cree q5.

construction is good and thick. thicker than a fenix. i can imagine it can hold up well with higher outputs with the bigger mass. supposedly the same head as the 2aa version(220lumens) ala l1d/l2d fashion.

it has a nice design. kind of a tactical design which everybody's favorite marketing word nowadays. the tip has a stainless steel bezel for striking abilities. i haven't smashed anything yet. bezel is crenulated so your pockets are safe and so are the wedding vegetables if you are sort who likes to go commando.

knurling
it's there. it's mild. more fenix less like d10/maglite type.

threads are well machined. not square like some other manufacturers(jetbeam) but there is no play.
screws in tight at the top and bottom. tight because of the o-rings. i can imagine it's well sealed. also means that the twist high/lo action is a 2 handed affair. not fenix twisting easy. more like d10 tight.
tail end threads are anodized so there is a lockout feature.

quirks
-easier to put the battery in the head. if you put it in the tail it you would have to push in the spring and mate the threads. from the top you wouldn't have to push in reducing the chance of cross threading.
there is a reverse polarity protection so i don't foresee this as a problem.
you can see the metal preventing the negative battery end from touching the positive pill side.

-draws alot on high. 2-2.2a, depending on battery type and condition. i have not tested it with alkaline but i can imagine it would be a much lower current making the low and high to be the same. high would be only as high as the battery would let it.
i think this light would benefit with nimh's or the compatible li-ion.
-tint seems a bit greenish when side to side with other lights. could be the lens which is definitely coated with some sort of ar or antiscratch in a green tint. you can see a slight green tint with the lens


comes with a clip on it. you can reverse it but you might damage some of anodizing by pulling it out. the clip isn't loose as mentioned in light reviews but there is some side to side movement if you push it. possibly because they hollowed some of it out. i think the clip gets in the way if you are a person who prefers a holster. it's weird to use both. it would be better to carry one or the other. it's definitely nice to have a choice though.
i noticed the clip wearing out on some areas. i bet this will be the first part to wear out aesthetically. it's supposed to be stainless steel so i really dont care. i like the look of a well used tool.
some wear on clip already. hollowed out so there is some flex. it holds tight when using it on my belt.


fwd clickie
i never really liked the metal buttons like on the d10, lftx5?. i feel like they are too harsh on the thumb. i always preferred a more organic feel of a rubber button so this nice. to activate the momentary on, the travel is not too bad requiring a pretty short travel. to activate the constant on requires a longer travel. some might find it annoying. i think it's definitely livable.
the click is solid with an audible sound. the quality seems to be good with a gold plated spring on the negative contact. there is no extra switches included. confidence or overconfidence? yet to be seen.

beam pattern
very smooth for a cree. the reflector is an op one.
the business end with an op reflector and silverbacked q5

low

high


output
they claim 37 and 130 lumens. light-reviews measurement has the low close to the l1d med and the high close to the l1d turbo. there is a noticeable difference. if you are using an old nimh or damaged one that causing more resistance, the output would be more close as the high would be lower.
it's pulling at the battery
2-2.2a on high
.27-28a on low

runtime
haven't tested it but seems very efficient on low based on light-reviews test.
1hr high
6.5 low
on 2000 eneloops.
i will assume the advertised 1.2hr/8hr runtime is based on 2700 nimhs.

modding ability
hard to say at this point. i cant take apart the head. i tried with my usual rubberband wrapped on separate parts and a good twist. worked on all my fenixs but not this baby. we'll see..

comes with
2 extra o-rings, lanyard, holster.

pro
only 2 outputs, less to fiddle about.
yay a clip
good construction
fwd clickie
efficient

con
one mode with li-on
only 2 outputs, no ultra low which is important to some.
thicker design not as pocket friendly
not alkaline friendly with the high, but what high output flashlight is..

noticed
that they put a small circle metal piece between the rubber and the actual switch. i guess this is to make a wider feel on the thumb when depressing.
i don't like the textured rubber button. yes i like rubber but not the textured ones, i'm picky. it looks like those cheap dx ones. eagletac isn't the only culprit. i supposed the textured ones function better by slipping less?
i always liked the smoother fenix rubber button which i installed instead. looks more professional imo. the fenix rubber button cannot be installed with that metal round piece because the fenix rubber is slightly shorter which slightly compresses the switch.
good thing is that any one of those dx rubber switches would drop right in fine for a person who wants to add a GITD one.

in conclusion
not the most versatile light with the output only being 2. it's weakness is it's strength as it's easy to use and figure out. it's something you wouldn't even have to explain. wife approved.
i find the output they picked to be well thought out for an outdoor light. 37 lumens is a good overall output with a choice for full blast if needed. indoors is where ultra low comes in real handy with no light pollution. you would have to ceiling bounce with this light.

i hope that's less than 500 words..

pics to come..
i purchased it at lighthound.com, they have a 2% "cpf" discount. came fast and well protected in a usps priority mail box.
4sevens also has it now on their eagletac specific website. i'm sure the "cpf8" 8% works too.
 
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Thanks for the first impressions and basic rundown. :D
Definitely seemes to be some more polish that the light could have, but all in all not a bad light either.
 
intrigued by these lights waiting til the reviews come in. thanks for your impressions.
 
i've updated with pics. sorry about the quality. i used by cell phone so i can get the pics out asap.

http://www.hamandcheese.smugmug.com/gallery/6061965_5yPif#380093968_hRGS3

i've just noticed the beam pattern has some ring around the hotspot. i don't notice that with my eye. that's weird. i'm going to have to get better pics.
ignore the lumpy edge around the corona? i have 4 gitd tape pieces on the inner stainless steel bezel.
someone mentioned the beam pattern is similar to the nitecore ex10. i think the bezel affects parts of the beam pattern.
 
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did a low runtime test

battery: old duracell 2650
runtime: 7hr 10min

stopped the clock to when it turned dim. the battery measured 1.19

hey secret ultralow mode! easter egg!:party::huh:
 
UPDATE:

Possible design flaw. the rubber o-ring is behind the lens making the stainless steel bezel touch the glass directly.

today my p10a rolled off(took the clip off) the coffee table on the hardwood floor. it hit the bezel first. the glass lense cracked under the bezel area.

the bezel wouldnt be really a striking tool if the flashlight breaks :p

just my luck..

the maglite for instance has the o-ring between the bezel and the lens.


will update with pics
 
UPDATE:

Possible design flaw. the rubber o-ring is behind the lens making the stainless steel bezel touch the glass directly.

Very interesting...so I went to my P10A2. And found the same thing:

2926904105_4d8bdf295e.jpg


2926904663_a231c4071b.jpg


You can see clearly what f22shift is talking about. I also tried to tap the light so the lens might fall out, but it appears that maybe it is glued in???

Have you called CS @ EagleTac yet? I am interested to see if 1) they will replace your broken glass and 2)if they acknowledge this possible flaw with the bezel being labeled as one in which the owner can strike something with. Please keep us informed...
 
T10C o-ring is the same way. It sits in a tiny little groove just outside of the reflector and the lens sits on top the o-ring with the bezel screwed directly on top it.
 
cracked lens. you can see the hardwood floor on the background. there is a small dent in the floor, so it took some of the energy. the newspaper thing in the upper left is the coffee table. i'm sure the newspaper helped it roll off. the coffee table is approx 19" high. i was incidently taking pics of a gitd o-ring to fill the gap left by removing the clip.
i found it easier to press in the rubber cap if i can grip the body directly.


gitd o-ring from cpf member , sigman.
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=174019

this is an 5/8" size gitd o-ring filling the gap. it ever so slightly protudes.


this is the 1/2" size gitd o-ring. more flat.


pics of the glass damage. right where the bezel hit it. one side.


pic of the o-ring. i wonder if the o-ring is thicker, would it absorb the energy more. more to compress. i'm not sure. i was thinking how the bezel is heavier than aluminum and that it would hit harder based on simple physics. mass x acceleration.


hard to tell now if this will be a problem. eagletac is not the only one with this design. i'm thinking of nitecore.
i wouldn't feel as bad if i dropped it on concrete or if i dropped it higher. i'm very surprised considering the small height. i'm more worried about this being a continuous problem and having to replace the glass multiple times.
i did drop my l2d from hip height to the concrete without any trouble that just a nick on the head. maybe aluminum is better as i don't plan on cracking any skulls in the near future. :rolleyes:

too bad. i was really looking to give it it's first field test in a night hike. maybe next time.
too many sad pics. how about a happy pic? my friend's mangey mutt bugging my niece for a meat bun. happy thoughts.. happy thoughts..:party:
 
Have you called CS @ EagleTac yet? I am interested to see if 1) they will replace your broken glass and 2)if they acknowledge this possible flaw with the bezel being labeled as one in which the owner can strike something with. Please keep us informed...

negative. i don't see a phone number. i did email so i just have to wait now.
"allow one to two days for a written response"

i don't expect them to pay for it but that would be nice.:whistle:

do they really advertise it as a striking bezel?
i can imagine their marketing.

"Strike bezel. Kick *** and break some glass!**"
**might be your own :sssh:
 
do they really advertise it as a striking bezel?

From here (2AA) and here (1AA):

Stainless Steel Bezel
The low polished Stainless steel bezel reduces light reflection in tactical environment. The protective stainless steel bezel also comes handy in situations where self-defense or windows-breaking action is required.


It says this for all the individual lights.

i don't expect them to pay for it but that would be nice.:whistle:

Perhaps if you hadn't put your light through such "abuse"...:nana:

negative. i don't see a phone number. i did email so i just have to wait now.

Also, I'm just guessing here, but the contact is probably 4sevens and his place...

From the EagleTac store:

We prefer to take care of your questions/inquiries by email, however sometimes more urgency is needed. You may contact us by phone at (678) 608-0308 or toll-free at (866) 471-0749 Monday through Friday between 8am and 5pm Eastern Standard Time. If we're not available, please leave your name and number and we'll call you back. Thanks :)
table_background_specials.gif
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Also, I'm just guessing here, but the contact is probably 4sevens and his place...

From the EagleTac store:

We prefer to take care of your questions/inquiries by email, however sometimes more urgency is needed. You may contact us by phone at (678) 608-0308 or toll-free at (866) 471-0749 Monday through Friday between 8am and 5pm Eastern Standard Time. If we're not available, please leave your name and number and we'll call you back. Thanks :)
table_background_specials.gif
pixel_trans.gif

yeah i think that is 4sevens. i actually bought it from lighthound who passed the buck to eagletac. rightfully so, they have no spare parts duh..


i did find it on their website...hmm

:crackup:
 
Perhaps by removing the clip you voided your warranty (since it rolled off the table).

Just kidding!

Just think, if you broke the lens in a Fenix, you would have to violate you warranty by taking it apart. When your lens comes in for your EagleTac, it's easy to replace.
 
Perhaps by removing the clip you voided your warranty (since it rolled off the table).

Just kidding!

Just think, if you broke the lens in a Fenix, you would have to violate you warranty by taking it apart. When your lens comes in for your EagleTac, it's easy to replace.

haha,

well that is a bright side. i was looking around for different lens on dx. i think the size is 20-21mm and a little over 1mm thick for the stock one. there's nothing to match. i was thinking it would be fun to throw an aspherical in there. oh well

doo doo doo doo.. this just in..
looks like they are sending me another lens on the house. crisis averted. the rep mentioned she'll fwd the info to their engineers.
 
Well, they were/are 100% correct about one thing...

"The precisely machined stainless steel bezel breaks windows in a snap."

:whistle:


hehehe.
i also found it funny how they say "Eagletac- the toughest name in flashlight."
like having a tough sounding name is a purchasing factor.
it's not even true. more like a patriotic name.
 
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