EDC - Lego Quark AA, or something else

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tjswarbrick

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My name is Tom, and I am a flashaholic.
This looks like my 100th post - I want to make it a good one. Can you stand another "what's the best EDC"?

I'm looking for an EDC light that I like as much as my C2/M61W room lighter, MRV thrower, and TD15x darkness-remover.
One that makes me smile EVERY time I use it.

(I have a bunch of 2xCR123 lights - cool, neutral and warm; OP and SMO; XR-E, XP-E, XP-G, and XM-L; and am very happy with the collection I've built up.)

I have a handful of smaller, AA and AAA, lights - and none is my perfect EDC yet.
Fenix LD01 is too small, too cool, and too hard to twist.
Maratac AAA is great for carry, less great for use - I prefer something that doesn't get lost in my hand, and is clicky.
4-7's Preon 2 is too long/skinny, and tint's too cool.
Thrunite Ti is my favorite AAA so far, but it isn't quite bright enough and I'm afraid I'm going to leave it on "low" and think it's off. Plus I prefer something that fills the hand a bit better.
JETBeam E3S is darn close - but it's a little heavy, and the tint's a bit green.
I just ordered a Xeno E03 because I have heard great things about it, but I'm a little leery of the switch and its "budget" status. It hasn't arrived yet.
LuminTop P2C is very close, too, but winds up being too big in pocket after a long day. Plus, I wish it was OP for a smoother beam.

My ideal will be:
a) 3.5-4.25" long, and .7-.9" around, to fit my XL hands.
b) Clicky (Reverse and forward both have their benefits. I generally prefer forward, but it's not a deal-breaker.)
c) 1 - 3 oz.
d) Only neutral tint need apply.
e) Orange Peel / Textured reflector for a nice useful beam with no rings or holes.
f) XP-G or XM-L (or MC-E / SST-50?) for adequate brightness (150-400L max, depending on power source) and EDC-appropriate flood.
g) .9-4.2V to run on AA, eneloop, L91, or 14505 (I prefer primaries, and don't have a Li-Ion charger as yet.)
CR123 would be great, too, but singles tend to be too short (get lost in my palm) , and clicky doubles too long (a little much to disappear in the pocket.)
h) Relatively elegant; distinctive in appearance, tough enough to withstand the occasional "oops".
i) When I clip even a small blade or light to my pocket I can't comfortably remove my keys, so I always remove the clip and deep-pocket carry.

My EDC knife is a sprint-run Spyderco Para2, and I'd like something similar in carry ("small" for it's size), ergos (fits the hand like a glove), use (does lots of things well), function (simple, elegant, smooth, solid, oozes quality), performance (never ceases to amaze me), and price (~ $100-150.)
I'd love Ti, if it wasn't (generally) so pricey.

I've considered one of Mac's EDC's. I'd probably jump if they weren't optimized for Li-Ion. Convince me that they're still fantastic, and worth the price, as a 2-mode on CR123, and I'll re-evaluate. On a primary, is Medium adequate to be considered "Hi"?

I'm going to get an HDS (Hi CRI) when they become available again, but it is for a specific purpose, and possibly not showy/fancy enough for this job.

If 4-7 was still making Ti Quarks, I'd probably grab one.
Failing that, I'm thinking of picking up a Ti Mini AA for the body, and a Neutral Tactical AA2 or Neutral Tactical X AA2, and popping the head and tail on the mini Ti body, and running a 14505 (primary 14500.)
Have you tried it? Do the tactical ends fit the mini body? How does it look? Can you provide photos? In the tactical head, does the XP-G or XM-L offer the most useable beam?

Anything better?

Thanks for listening, and your help and suggestions!
- Tom
 
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I had a "best AA EDC" thread HERE, you should take a look at some of those suggestions. They don't work me though, because I'm a big fan of good low lumen modes and long runtimes, and nothing I see can compare to the Quark in that regard.

Not an expert, but I didn't think you can lego regular Quarks with the mini bodies.

Here's an interesting thing I notice a couple of days ago while 4/7s was playing around with its new website foursevens.com. One of the choices was a Ti Quark AA :naughty: - although the picture was a normal black Quark.... "Who would want to buy a black anodized Ti light," I thought. The selection is now gone from the line-up (I think the black pix was just a place-card holder). I really hope that means they're going to release one soon - it would make a lot of sense from a competitive standpoint as Ti seems to be all the rage. I won't be able to resist it.
 
I went through most of the lights you mentioned. Then I got an HDS Rotary. Save yourself the time, money, and effort, and just get it. I cannot fathom a better light for every day usage than it, and I've been through alot of lights. It runs off an RCR123. You can charge it and every day you are starting fresh. You can turn it on in any mode, from .08 lumens up to 200. You can click and hold the switch for momentary on. When its on you can push and hold the switch, regardless of what output you are at for immediate 200 lumen burst, when you let go it reverts to your set level. You can slap a diffuser, like and F04 or even a water bottle cap and it will light up a room. You can customize it to do anything and everything you want. It can tailstand. I set it on my night stand at night on about 10 lumens with the diffuser, and it slowly dims down and shuts itself off after 10 minutes. It is one of the toughest lights made. It is waterproof to at least 60 feet. If there is a solar flare or nuclear detonation, it will still work, because it is potted. It has a nice beam that is a perfect compromise between throw and spill. It fits in your hand wonderfully and is easy to use. I can't recommend the thing enough. Ive almost given up on buying new lights because everything I get or try can't even compare. That is all. PS. Here's my list that Ive gone through and either sold or still have. In my spreadsheet they are green or black but here its just black.

[TABLE="width: 121"]
[TR]
[TD]Quark[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Turbo 123x2[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Preon (Red)[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Preon Revo[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]AA2 X Regular[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]AA2 Regular[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Mini AA2[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Ti Turbo 123x2[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Turbo X[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]AA Regular Body[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Fenix[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]E01[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]P1D[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Jetbeam[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Jet III Pro ST[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Surefire[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]A2L[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]E1L[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]E1B[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]6P[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]C2[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]C3 + A19[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]E1E[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]L4[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Z2 (Bored)[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]6PX[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]L1[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]6P[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]6P[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]G2X[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]G2X[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]G2X[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]6PX[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]E2E[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Z2[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]L1[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]E1L[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]E1B[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]E2D[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]HDS Systems[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]EDC-R1S-200[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Malkoff[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]MD2 Hi/Lo[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]MD3+A19[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]M61LL[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]M61[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]M91W[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]M60[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]M61HCRI[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]VME[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]M61[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]M61L[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]FB1[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]M31[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]M61[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]MD2 Hi/Lo[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]M91[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]M60LF[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Overready[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Moddoo Triple Neutral[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]O-Light[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]SR-51[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Solarforce[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]L2T[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Ultrafire[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Lumens Factory[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]D26 Dropin[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Maglite
[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]2C[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]4D[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Nitecore[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]EZAA[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Streamlight[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]TLR1-S[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD][/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]Zebralight[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD]SC60[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
 
Holy crap Tommygun45, with that lineup your recommendation is very compelling.
 
Putting my money where my mouth is, when I saw the availability of a Rotary in HCri I ordered one tonight. Unfortunately the wait is at least 4 weeks if I had to guess, but this will be a collectors item no doubt. Check the threads over in LED section to see of the legitimate love people have for their rotaries, and of the absurd desire and appreciation they have for their hcri rotary* the one that has been shipped from HDS....

The reason for the wait, as explained by the guy who makes Thor custom leather is because of the unbelievable attention to detail and perfection that Henry, the owner of HDS, has for his lights. ... I am writing this as my rotary slowly dims, blinks, and turns off. I cannot wait for my second one to show up. I am telling you, I have been through as many lights, from as many manufacturers, in as many styles and functions as I have been able to afford, and the rotary without questions blows them all out of the water. The hcri can be ordered from the hds website under the custom EDC Rotary section but as I said, its going to take a while to get to you, and me.

Advice, order something else for the time being, thats in stock. Maybe a Sunwaymen V10r or a Quark AA. Play with them because they are toys. Order the rotary. And when it arrives you can sell the one you like less on the MP for almost face value.

I started out on Quarks but wanted to know what was better. It is night and day. After spending a few hundred on them, jetbeams, nicecores, Chinese XYZ, I realized that if I wanted true quality I would have to stick with HDS, Malkoff, or Surefire. Sure, those lights are nice and have good outputs, but I want lights that I don't have to worry about. That I know if needed, will always be there for me. Ones that have true no questions asked lifetime warranties because the owners know they will rarely have to honor those agreements. (due to their quality of course)

Once you get in deep, you will start to explore the customs. The leading customs are the McGizmo's, and the Macs', I think anyways. And after reading and seeing them, the Rotary, in my opinion, still outduals them, at a lower price. Unless you are crazy about titanium. BUT! Ive never had a McGizmo so maybe I am wrong there, but for your purposes now, believe me, go rotary.
 
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I agree - most compelling. But is it as easy to use as the clicky? Ans can I be assured of a Neutral or Hi CRI tint?

And is it as easy to use as the clicky...

It is a clicky. Its just way easier to use. Mine is set up as such.

The rotary control is in the tailcap. You can easily control it with one hand, either fully rotated, or fully unrotated, if you will. Either over hand carry or underhand carry. When I click the tailcap, it turns on to wherever I have the 'dial' set at. When it turns on, in rotary mode, I can just turn the nob all the way down to moonlight (.08 lumens) or all the way up (200 lumens). Wherever I am at , I have it set so if I do a quick double click, it stobes. If I push and hold it, it goes to full 200 lumen blast. If I triple click it it goes to ~80 medium and stays. When it is off, I can click and hold the button, and it will come on wherever the rotary is set to, when I release, it turns off. I have to click and release to turn it on. This may sound confusing but that is probably just becasue of the way I am wording it. If you want to operate it as a clicky, you can. Its the exact same interface. I just have mine set up so that when I click it, and let go, it is set to 'rotary mode'. So I can control the output by twisting it.

This is a pic with a water bottle diffuser. I now have an F04 on it but I haven't got a pic up yet. Ill do one tomorrow and update this post.

IMG_20111028_194322.jpg



Also, no, Quark mini lights cannot lego with regular Quark lights. The mini's are a smaller diameter.

Quarks are good lights that put out some decent light for the money. But honestly, they are kind of cheaply made and dont exactly exude quality. The anodizing on them chips and fades quickly and their walls are thin. I've had 3 tailcaps now fail on me, requiring me to take them apart and fix them. I also always have to clean the connections inside the tube for some odd reason. I have never had these problems with my Hds, sf, of Malkoff lights. Rather than getting 3 lights that seem ok, get one that is bulletproof.
 
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Thanks, Tommygun, for the info re: legoing Quarks.
Okay, alright, you sold me on the Rotary rather than the Clicky for the Hi CRI HDS. Do you work for Henry? Perhaps you should...

I don't have a Malkoff light, but I have 3 P60-size SF's, and 2 Malkoff drop-ins, and I totally get what you're saying.
I tried using my JETBeam tonight, and it actually seemed better than I thought, but once I turned on my NB Neutral XM-L 6P, the Jet went back into the pocket. Quality and security in one.
Trouble is, all those SF's don't fit in the pocket. That's where the HDS comes in.
Can I really make it with just one EDC light, instead of an EDC rotation?
 
The HDSs look like they'd be the perfect lights... I only wished they made something in 1xAAs (or even 2xAA again)

Is there any info on the HDS rotary runtime stats vs their clicky models? With every other manufacturer, the rotary models always seem to get less than half the runtimes of the clicky models at the the lower lumen levels due to parasitic draw of the ring. Not so much a issue at the higher lumen ranges, but it really kills the lower lumen runtimes.
 
Ya, I dont have any kind of rotation, I was just taking pictures. The E1L there I gave to my girlfriend after a Preon I gave her died on her in the middle of the night. No more horsing around so I got her a nice reliable two stage SF. Also has excellent run times. As for my E1b, the black one, it doesn't run off of RCR cells, only primaries. I have nightmares thinking about going out with a light that has a primary in it. I never know how much juice is left. Therefore I don't use lights with primaries. I just love the look of that thing so I cant bring myself to sell it. The big SF hosts house some big boy modules. Have an L1 triple in there and a Malkoff M91, both hosts are bored and run 18650's. Those are lights I bring camping or let my friends use if were outside at night or something. But either way, even with all of those the only one I grab every day is the Rotary. If Im going on a trip I just bring an extra AWRCR and a sleeve of Cr123s just in case.

Now for output, the rotary won't get you as much as any xm-l light. Especially a NB Neutral. It puts out a solid beam but its not designed to be a massive area lighter. As for the hicri its only going to be 120 lumens, so it will be a bit less than the cool Rotary. I find that these needs are more than adequate for anything I need but everyone is different.

Here is a thread on it.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?331477-New-HDS-Hi-Cri-pictures-and-beam-shots
 
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