EDC/Tactical Light

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suhsjake

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Sep 16, 2012
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Right. I am a poor college student looking for a EDC light for work (computer tech/military reserves) and that can be mounted onto a weapon (AR/AK/Shotgun). I do not want to buy a full built flashlight, but rather build my own, although I have never done it before. I think I am pretty set on getting a 6P style light body as there should be many types of weapon mounts available, and available parts. Thank you for the help.

1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?


____I would like to purchase the light from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
__X__I will be mail-ordering or buying online, so this doesn't matter.


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! :-)

____Less than $25.
__X__Less than $50.
____Less than $100.
____Less than $150.
____Less than $300.
____I have no limit.
____I’m flexible, tell me what you gotJ.
____Other, please specify ________


3) Format:

__X__I want a flashlight.
____I want a headlamp.
____I want a lantern.
____I want a dive light.
____I want a portable spotlight.


4) Flashlight-specific format/size:

____Keychain size.
____Every day carry small (2-4 inches).
__X__Every day carry medium (4-7 inches).
____Holster carry.
____Big enough to need its own travel caseJ.
____I don’t care.
____I don’t know.
____N/A


5) Emitter/Light source:

____LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
____HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
__X__I don't know.


6) Manufacturer:

____I want to buy a light from a traditional mass producing manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
__X__I would consider getting a light that is pieced together (for example a “host” or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a “drop-in” emitter from another source). Under the right circumstances, this path can provide more options to the consumer to meet specific needs, and can often be easily upgradeable as technology improves.


7) What battery type do you want to use?

____I intend to use alkaline batteries (AAA, AA, C, D) (disclaimer, while it does not preclude all choices, these are not recommended for many of today’s most powerful lights)
____I intend to use rechargeable nickel chemistry (NiCad, NiMH, NiZn)
__X__I intend to use lithium primary batteries (CR123, CR2, Energizer Advanced/Ultimate Lithium AA/AAA)
__X__I intend to use rechargeable lithium (li-ion) chemistry. Feel free to specify a size if you know which size you want (14500, RCR123/16340, 17500, 17670, 18650, etc.)
____I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery. (Note: these choices may be very limited unless you are looking at spotlights)


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is impossible).

____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (0-10 lumens).
__X__I want to walk around an unlit rural area (50-150 lumens).
____I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
____I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
____I want ridiculous amounts of lumens (800+ lumens).


9) Throw vs. Flood: At what distance will you be most likely to use this light? Select all that apply.

__X__Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
__X__Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
__X__5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
____30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
____50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
____150+ yards (I want maximum throw possible)


10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum output).

____Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
____30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
__X__90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
____3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).


11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase “you get what you pay for” is very accurate for flashlights.

____Not Important (A “night-stand” light).
____Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
____Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
__X__Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don't care.
____I don’t know.


12) Switch Type and location (choose all that apply):

____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
____I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
____I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today’s high end lights).
____I don't care.
__X__I don’t know.
____Other, please specify____________________.


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
__X__I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
____I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
____I want a programmable light.
____I want a selector ring.
____I want a strobe mode. (Blinks to show location.)
____I want SOS mode.
____I want a beacon mode.
____I don’t care.
____I don’t know.


14)Material/Finish/Coating

____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).
____Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today’s flashlights).
____Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
____Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
____I don’t care.
__X__I don’t know.
____Other, please specify____________.


15) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any below.

____Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________).
____Dedicated R/G/B secondary LEDs.
____“Hybrid” light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)
____Pocket/belt clip
____Holster
____Wrist/Neck Lanyard
____Crenulated bezel
____Non-sparking Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environments
 
For critical durability and weapon mounting, I suggest you eat more Ramen and up your budget some.

A Surefire 6P Original will set you back $60, and will come with a twisty tailcap. This can easily be upgraded with a McClicky, for an additional $21. I just installed one today in about 20 minutes. Add a blemished Malkoff m61 for $29, and you're done.

Or for $99, you can get a Malkoff MD2 turn key light, which comes with a McClicky and an M61. If you'd like dual modes selected by loosening or tightening the head,,then that'll be $119.

Grizz
 
There are some P60 accepting bodies at lower price ranges (Solarforce comes to mind, get one with a forward clickie). Then you could add a blemished Malkoff drop-in. That could be close to or a bit over your budget without batteries. When you get more money, upgrade to a more durable host. It'll be single mode though and I'm not sure how well it'll hold as a weapon light.

Shiningbeam's Caveman is supposed to be a work light and be durable, but I'm not sure if it can be weapon mounted or modified to be weapon mounted. Not sure how well it'll take the recoil though. It is multimode and uses 2 AA batteries.

:welcome:
 
For your budget, it looks like this combo will work out great;

- Solarforce L2T
- Solarforce LC-XPG or LC-XML, Single Mode, 3.7V - 8.4V

The two things should run you less than $40. You do need some extra parts, however;

- copper tape (expensive but recommended) or aluminum foil (cheap but less efficient)
- good lubricant, such as NyoGel

Mind you, the result will be a single mode, and not multi-mode as you requested. The problem with multi-mode option using P60 is that it won't be "tactical" anymore. To be tactical, a light has to have consistent UI, which means that the light should not change its output unless explicitly done so by the user. A multi-mode P60 drop-in does not fill this role since, every time you activate the light, you'll cycle through the modes. Thus, if you want to go with the P60 setup for a tactical light, you'll have to get a single mode drop-in.
 
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