Emergency Flashlights

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Darth Washington

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Oct 27, 2013
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In the dark...
Hi everyone, I'm new here and have been lurking for years; love this place just never registered or posted!

I am looking for affordable flashlights to keep in various rooms of the house to be used primarily in emergencies such as power outages, severe weather, emergency evacuations etc. Since I want to buy at least 4 for this purpose, I don't want to spend a whole lot of money. I'm primarily focused on brightness and durability. I need to be 100% confident that when I click the button they will come on. I previously owned a Surefire G2X and loved it, I'm looking for something comparable to that. Unfortunately mine was stolen at a place I used to work.

1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?

N/A I would like to purchase the light in person from a brick and mortar store. I am located in ______________.
N/A_This will be mail-order or Online (location doesn't matter).


2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest! :-)

____I don't know yet
____Up to $25.
__X_Up to $50.
____Up to $100.
____Up to $200.
____Up to $300.
____Essentially unlimited.


3) Format:

____I am not sure, please help me decide.
_X__I want a flashlight (hand held/self contained).
____I want a self-contained headlamp.
____I want a headlamp with an external pack/power source.
____I want a mounted light (typically for a bicycle or vehicle)
____I want a lantern/area light.
____I want a portable spotlight (it may have an external power source).
____Other ____________________________________________


4) Size:

____MICRO - Keychain size.
____TINY - Every day carry (2-4 inches).
__X_SMALL - Every day carry (4-7 inches).
__X_MEDIUM - Holster/belt ring carry. (>7 inches)
____LARGE - Big enough to need its own travel case.
____I don’t know/I don't care.


5) Emitter/Light source:

__X_LED (known for efficiency, longevity, and compactness)
____Incandescent (known for superior color rendition)
____HID (known for max output, but often at the expense of size)
____I don't know.


6) Manufacturer:

_X__I want to buy a light from a large/traditional manufacturer that is ready to go out of the box.
_X__I would like a light from a specialty manufacturer (Possibly limited run/Custom).
_X__I am interested in assembling my own components. (for example a “host” or flashlight body from one manufacturer, and a “drop-in” emitter from another source).


7) What power source do you want to use?

____I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Alkaline batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
____I intend to use "Primary"/Disposable Lithium batteries based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D and CR123 sized cells common to most stores (often a cold weather or long storage choice).
____I intend to use Rechargeable cells (NiMH or NiCD) based on the usual AAA/AA/C/D sized cells common to most stores.
____I intend to use Rechargeable cells based on less common formats (18500 or 18650 Li-Ion, RCR123, et-al).
____I want a light with an integrated rechargeable battery pack.
_X__I don't know/I need more information on power sources.

7a) If you have selected a rechargeable option
____I want a light that plugs directly into the wall (literally with prongs built into the light)
____I want a light that has a recharging adapter (your typical "wall wart")
____I want a light that snaps into a cradle (usually mounted on a wall)
____I want a separate/stand-alone charger (this involves removing the batteries to charge)
____I don't care


8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is not a happy experience).

____I want to navigate a dark room or read a map (1-10 lumens).
____I want an indoor "blackout" light (15-50 lumens)
_X__I want to confidently walk around an unlit/unpaved rural area (60-150 lumens).
_X__I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).
____I want to illuminate an entire field, the neighbor's front yard several houses down, impress my friends and neighbors, etc. (300-700 lumens).
____I want search and rescue type illumination (800+ lumens).

____SPECIAL NOTE: Burst/Turbo mode Category - There are several lights that will run at a super bright maximum for a very limited period (usually 5-10 minutes) and then will "step-down" to a lower level for thermal control. Check here if this is acceptable.


9) Flood vs Throw: Flood covers an area, Throw reaches out to a distance.

____All Flood: I am doing "arms length" tasks like reading and campsite cooking.
_X__Wide Flood: I want a defined flood area for semi-close tasks like after-dark campsite tasks or working on a car.
_X__Narrow Flood: I want a sharply defined flood area that will project some distance for tasks like trail walking.
_X__Wide Throw: I want a beam with a noticeable hot-center for distance throw and a significant amount of "side-spill". Good for rough trail hiking, search and rescue, and general distance work.
____Narrow Throw: I want a beam with a very tight "hot center" and minimal "side-spill". Good for distance viewing, fog, and looking through dense undergrowth.
____Turbohead: I want a far-distance projector with a sharply focused spot of light and minimal or zero side-spill. Good for extreme distance and impressing your friends.

9a) Distance: How far away will you typically need to see with this light (check all that apply)
____Less than 1 yard/meter (reading, other close work)
____Less than 5 yards/meters (looking for something inside a dark shed/garage/basement)
_X__5-20 yards/meters (check out a noise in the backyard)
_X__30-50 yards/meters (I have a big backyard)
____50-150 yards/meters (I live in a very rural area/farm with wide open spaces)
____150+ yards (I am searching from a helicopter)

10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum continuous output).

____Up to 30 minutes (I want the brightest [and potentially smallest] light for brief periods)
_X__30-60 minutes (I have plenty of batteries just ready to be changed)
____90-120 minutes (Runtime is moderately important, but still not critical)
____3 hours + (I critically need this light to run on max for extended periods in between battery changes/charges).




11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase “you get what you pay for” is very accurate for flashlights.

____Not Important (A “night-stand” light).
____Slightly Important (Walks around the neighborhood).
____Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
_X__Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).
____I don’t know.


12) Switch Size, Type, and location (choose all that apply):

____Any size switch will do.
____I need a BIG switch (I'll be using gloves or have very large hands or coordination issues).
____I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
____I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
____I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
____I want a twisty switch (Tighten the head/tailcap to activate, and the light will stay on until the head/tailcap is loosened).
____I want a body mounted switch (near the head, like on a Maglite).
_X__I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today’s high end lights).
____I want a remote switch (usually found on high-end bicycle headlights)
____I don't care.
____I don’t know.
____Other, please specify____________________.


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

____A simple on-off with only one output level is fine for me.
____I want 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
____I want multiple light levels. (Some lights have 5-16 light levels.)
____I want a programmable light.
____I want a selector ring.
____I want a strobe mode. (Oscillating pattern to confuse/blind aka "Police Mode")
____I want SOS mode. (blinks in ---...--- emergency pattern)
____I want a beacon mode. (Regular flashes at full power to show location.)
_X__I don’t care.
____I don’t know.


14)Material/Finish/Coating

____Plastic/composite body (this may limit your choices significantly).
____Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (Hard Anodized) (Aluminum, specifically HA, is the most common material/finish for today’s higher end flashlights).
____Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
____Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).
_X__I don’t care.
____I don’t know.
____Other, please specify____________.

15) Water resistance
_X__None needed
_IPX4 (Splash resistant)
____IPX7 (Waterproof to 1 meter/30min)
____IPX8 (Submersible to greater than 1 meter for 4 hours)

16) Storage conditions
_X__In house (temperature/climate controlled environment)
____Emergency kit (long standby periods)
____Automobile glove-box (wide temperature swings, long standby periods, critical reliability)
____Other_________________________________________ ____


17) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any/all below.

____Red filter (for preserving night vision).
____Other filter colors (Amber, Green, Blue, _________).
____Dedicated R/G/B secondary LEDs.
____“Hybrid” light (bright incandescent combined with long running LEDs)
____Pocket/belt clip
____Holster
____Wrist/Neck Lanyard
____Crenulated bezel
____Non-sparking, Intrinsically Safe (IS) for use in explosive environments


All suggestions appreciated, thanks!!!
 
Part of your emergency contingency should include rechargeable batteries, and a means to charge them. Someone in the Power Outage thread stated that "you can have too many lumens, but not too many batteries"
You might find this thread Power outage, How many lumens, how many batteries? thread interesting and informative.

Considering that you liked your G2X so much, you might consider looking at solarforceflashlight-sales lights. They're typically below $30. That'll allow you to get a pair of 18650 batteries for each, and a charger for the set of four, and pretty much stay within your $200 budget, and that will include batteries.
 
Consider the Klarus P2A. It's a simple, 2*AA operated light with a high and low mode. You twist the head to choose how much light comes out of it. Can be had for around $25 if you look hard enough.
 
For a home emergency light I'd recommend a 2xAA light due to battery availability, interchangeability, and a good combination of brightness and longevity. If it's readily available for use put Eneloop NiMh rechargables in it and recharge as needed or every six months to a year. If it's put away and seldom/never used. put L91 Lithiums in it (and it's good for 5-10 years). Always keep at least one spare set of batteries with each light.

There are a ton of great 2xAA lights. You might look at the Foursevens Quark Pro QP2A or Eagletac D25A2 Clicky series. If you want something really cheap, simple and reliable an LED AA Maglight isn't a bad choice.
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys, and thanks for the link Poppy, lots of good info in that thread!

Are Solar Force flashlights durable? I've seen a lot of people with custom and modded flashlights here and I'm completely new to that. Are there any upgrades I can easily do to solar forces that will make them more reliable or powerful or anything? Sorry if this is a stupid question, just trying to learn.
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys, and thanks for the link Poppy, lots of good info in that thread!

Are Solar Force flashlights durable? I've seen a lot of people with custom and modded flashlights here and I'm completely new to that. Are there any upgrades I can easily do to solar forces that will make them more reliable or powerful or anything? Sorry if this is a stupid question, just trying to learn.

I'd say apart from the switch, glass, anodize and threads, the host would be very similar to Surefire.

Malkoff dropin and Surefire Z41 with Mcclicky switch.

Problem is, Malkoff is made for Surefire hosts and dropin may rattle inside the Solarforce one, easy fix with copper tape or Al foil could do. There are heaps of threads on it.
 
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Thanks for the suggestions guys, and thanks for the link Poppy, lots of good info in that thread!

Are Solar Force flashlights durable? I've seen a lot of people with custom and modded flashlights here and I'm completely new to that. Are there any upgrades I can easily do to solar forces that will make them more reliable or powerful or anything? Sorry if this is a stupid question, just trying to learn.
Thanks Darth, I think that we did a pretty good job on that power outage thread. There are lots of very knowledgeable people here.

I have two solar force hosts. I don't use them everyday, but I have some nicks on my L2N, that proves that I dropped it on concrete. :(
There really isn't much to fail. The bodies are sturdy, and the switches are replaceable. They'll take any P60 drop-in so that means that (essentially the bulb) is replaceable. If you go to their site, you can see that you can buy (bulb) drop-ins separately.

You can get customized drop-ins, but I wouldn't do that until I knew what I wanted, and had a reason to get one.
 
I would recommend that one or two of those be the Pac-lite super that runs off of a 9 volt battery.

For edc flashlights they aren't the choice, but everyone should have one or two as part of their survival light collection.
 
Braddy: I had never heard of the Pak-Lite's before, looked them up and they look pretty cool. Thanks for telling me about them!

Poggy: Thanks again for the info. Which Solar Force light would you recommend, there's quite a few on their website.
 
I hope that others will chime in.
My take on the Pak-lite is that I wanted one for the last 10 or 13 years or so but just couldn't bring myself to drop $25 to $29.00 on the the little nothing, recently I realized that if it was real, then it was fundamental to a prepper, with it's 600 hour run time on an Alkaline battery and the ability to use the common but rarely important or sought after, 9v battery.

I made myself reread through all the reviews until I became convinced that it was actually a high quality piece of electronics with those actual run-times, the switch for instance is supposed to be a fairly expensive switch (relatively speaking), that is rated at a 100,000 uses.

I forced myself to spend the bucks and once I got it, I'm glad I did. The 9v battery use is an important niche to fill, and the extraordinary run time is almost unheard of.
 
Braddy: I had never heard of the Pak-Lite's before, looked them up and they look pretty cool. Thanks for telling me about them!

Poggy: Thanks again for the info. Which Solar Force light would you recommend, there's quite a few on their website.

Here are some considerations:

Solarforce T1 $27 vs Eagletac D25LC2 clicky $68
I like that size and form of the cigar shaped light for general around the house use.
Generally speaking I prefer the XML emitter to the smaller XPG
I haven't seen any reviews on the T1, nor any beam-shots, but considering my satisfaction level with the other solarforce products I think it is worth considering.
the D25CL2 is running a newer emitter (would be more efficient) has more modes, has had multiple reviews, and is well liked.

Thrunite TN12 $29 about the same size as your G2X with a smaller head. It has 5 nicely spaced output levels and is well liked. For example, it'll do about 100 lm for 9 hours, and it has a sub-lumen 0.9 lm mode 695 hours. Comparable to the Pak-lite.

Solarforce L2 series lights (L2, L2N, L2M... etc) have interchangeable heads and tails, and are primarily aesthetic differences.
I have an L2N in grey, and just like how it looks :) $13
I also have a L2M. $11. The L2M has a two piece body. It is a short 1* CR123 body, with a CR123 extender (the extender can be purchased separately $4.50). It can run a single 18650, 1* or 2* CR123s. So it is a little more flexible regarding battery configurations.
Something I just learned today is that if you take the extender from the L2M, and add it to a standard 18650 body, you can use 2* AA batteries (but you need a drop-in that will run on the lower voltage, such as one of the 0.8v-4.2v XPGs).

I'd like to suggest:
D25LC2 clicky $68
Thrunite TN12 $30
Solarforce L2N $13
Solarforce L2M $11
drop-ins:
0.8v-4.2v XPG 3 mode (smooth reflector) $13
XML2 3 mode $17
_________________________________
Total $152 which leaves $48 for shipping batteries, and charger. Unfortunately that's not quite enough.

Fasttech has Panasonic 18650B 3400 mAh batteries for about $18 a pair. You'll want between 4-8 batteries, and the ability to charge them (in your car).
Actually they also have a Miller ML202 Smart Charger/USB Power Pack for 18650 Rechargeable Li-ion Batteries @ $10.44

That puts you at right about $200 for four lights with 4* 18650 batteries and a 2 place charger.
You'll have the flexibility to run 18650's CR123's or even 2*AA's in one light.
All lights can put out more than 300 lumens, and two have very low lows for really exceptional long run-times.
If you swap the Solarforce T1 @ $27 for the D25CL2 @ $68, you could get four more batteries, or a better charger.

_______________________________________________________________
 
This is some great info thanks! I'm seeing that I have a lot to learn, I don't know the difference between all these emitters and everything, I'll have to start researching this some more as it seems very interesting. I really appreciate all of the help so far, thank you guys! I am leaning towards getting a Thrunite TN12, and a few Solarforce's as well to start, then build on from there. What do I need to know about the batteries? Does 18650B designate the type of battery, such as AA or AAA or does it reference a specification of some kind? How does the mAh rating affect the flashlight?

Thanks again for all the help!
 
Does 18650B designate the type of battery, such as AA or AAA or does it reference a specification of some kind? How does the mAh rating affect the flashlight?

Thanks again for all the help!

The many 5 digit battery designations you see typically associated with rechargeable lithium ion batteries are a description of the battery size. The first two digits are the battery diameter and the last three digits are the battery length. So an 18650 is 18mm in diameter and 65.0mm long. But beware that not all batteries with a given designation are exactly those dimensions - depending on the jacket thickness and a protection wire or not some are a bit thinner or thicker and depending on if they are button top or have a protection circuit they may be shorter or longer. A manufacturer will often give physical dimensions where they differ from the numeric designation but this is not always the case. Sometimes a bit of trial and error is involved unless someone can tell you if a particular battery will fit in a particular light.

Some common sizes for your reference:


* 10440 - AAA Size
* 14500 - AA Size
* 16340 - CR123 Sized

An 18650 is a bit thicker and shorter than 2xCR123s. If you get an 18650 light it would be good to get one that can take 2xCR123's in an emergency or for long term storage purposes. Check the manufacturers spec - some will say 2xCR123 only, some will say 18650 only, and some will say both.



The mAh rating (capacity) of the battery only impacts flashlight run time. Bigger numbers normally mean more run time but there are other factors (load/draw) that can result in bigger numbers not always being better. Beware that capacity numbers from the manufacturer are not always accurate (this is usually more accurate with name brands and less so with cheaper off brands).
 
I hope that others will chime in.
My take on the Pak-lite is that I wanted one for the last 10 or 13 years or so but just couldn't bring myself to drop $25 to $29.00 on the the little nothing, recently I realized that if it was real, then it was fundamental to a prepper, with it's 600 hour run time on an Alkaline battery and the ability to use the common but rarely important or sought after, 9v battery.

I made myself reread through all the reviews until I became convinced that it was actually a high quality piece of electronics with those actual run-times, the switch for instance is supposed to be a fairly expensive switch (relatively speaking), that is rated at a 100,000 uses.

I forced myself to spend the bucks and once I got it, I'm glad I did. The 9v battery use is an important niche to fill, and the extraordinary run time is almost unheard of.

I'll +1 on the importance of the 9V... during Hurricane Sandy I made it a point to observe battery availability in stores. I personally didn't need any - all my portable camping/travel/emergency gadgets are based around Eneloops and I have an RV generator and a few solar AA chargers, but you never know and may be caught away from your equipment/battery stores. Anyways, all common flashlight cells (AA, AAA, C, D, and CR123s) were quickly gone from the shelves on the forecasts and it obviously stayed that way throughout the week-long blackout (they had the commercial area power up quickly though). The 9v remained available the whole time, almost every store.

Now I do have a Pak-lite, but I strongly prefer AA sub-lumen lights (which I collect) for emergency runtime and I think they are just as efficient.... and yes, using a 9v (break one open, and you have 6x1.5v AAAAs). The 600 hr Pak-Lite low looks to be ~ 0.5 lumens, right in between my QAAX 0.3 and D40A 0.7 moonlight mode. I've tested the QAAX/D40A with 1x/3x AAAA from a 9v and got 50/133 hrs so that translates to 300/266 hrs from a full 9v... but this regulated light. I believe the PL is unregulated and starts dimming from the get go, so more or less, call it about even with an efficient moonlight mode AA light. Now here's the real advantage to the AA sub-lumen light - it can also run the AAAs and AAs that litter every household in the myriad of electrical gadgets and toys. And for ultimate flexibility, a wide-voltage driver, like the QAAX, will also easily run CR123s, 18650s (laptop batt pack?) or any other chemistry cell with a <19mm diameter.

All you need is to EDC the light, and have piece of McGyver tinfoil in your wallet. (FWIW, I don't find <0.2 lumen lights to be as useful, and most are, despite their spec sheet claims)
 
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We need to know the name of the flashlights you are describing so that we can look them up.
 
For a home emergency light I'd recommend a 2xAA light due to battery availability, interchangeability, and a good combination of brightness and longevity. If it's readily available for use put Eneloop NiMh rechargables in it and recharge as needed or every six months to a year. If it's put away and seldom/never used. put L91 Lithiums in it (and it's good for 5-10 years). Always keep at least one spare set of batteries with each light.

There are a ton of great 2xAA lights. You might look at the Foursevens Quark Pro QP2A or Eagletac D25A2 Clicky series. If you want something really cheap, simple and reliable an LED AA Maglight isn't a bad choice.

I'm with you on this. They're easy to maintain and stock extra batteries for, and most importantly easy for normal people to use. I'd round out the preparations with a couple AA-based lanterns for long run-time area lighting, and an AA-based headlamp. Not much you can't do with that combo. Or, I'd even consider replacing one or two of the flashlights with one/two lanterns and one headlamp if you wanted to limit cost.

IMHO, it's very important to pick a common battery for them all, then stock up on those as well. The advantage of the AA's is the Lithium option for long-storage life, but they're pretty expensive. But, you can also buy a bunch of commonly available alkalines for day-day use. Not the light-geek favorite, for sure, but really quite good for real world/real people use.


Lanterns: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?90-Lanterns

My favorite for this: Google - "CREE 40426 110 Lumens Bright Light CREE XLamp Warm White Camping LED Lantern"


Headlamps: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?6-Headlamps

I like the Petzl Tactikka and Zebralights here, but they're not AA based. One of the Zebralight AA versions would rock if you really wanted to stick with all AA lights.
 
I'm with you on this. They're easy to maintain and stock extra batteries for, and most importantly easy for normal people to use. I'd round out the preparations with a couple AA-based lanterns for long run-time area lighting, and an AA-based headlamp. Not much you can't do with that combo. Or, I'd even consider replacing one or two of the flashlights with one/two lanterns and one headlamp if you wanted to limit cost.

IMHO, it's very important to pick a common battery for them all, then stock up on those as well. The advantage of the AA's is the Lithium option for long-storage life, but they're pretty expensive. But, you can also buy a bunch of commonly available alkalines for day-day use. Not the light-geek favorite, for sure, but really quite good for real world/real people use.


Lanterns: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?90-Lanterns

My favorite for this: Google - "CREE 40426 110 Lumens Bright Light CREE XLamp Warm White Camping LED Lantern"


Headlamps: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?6-Headlamps

I like the Petzl Tactikka and Zebralights here, but they're not AA based. One of the Zebralight AA versions would rock if you really wanted to stick with all AA lights.

Good point on having extra AA's around, I usually have about 8 rechargeable AA's sitting around for various devices in the house. I also agree on the lantern idea as I do have a little LED Coleman lantern that I bought a long time ago for camping and love it, it works great.

So far my list is looking like this:

Pak-Lite
2 Solarforce L2N's
Thrunite TN12
Maybe
Eagletac D25LC2

Thank you guys very much for all the suggestions so far!
 
Darth, my suggestion is to consider that emergency flashlights may be needed longer than a couple hours, as in power is out for days and you may want to use a light for a few hours every night or you and your light aren't near replacement batteries. I'm a fan of PrincetonTec Attitude handheld flashlights. With four AAA lithium disposables it'll store for years and light for days straight. Not bright enough to illuminate a yard but bright enough to walk a path in pitch dark or read a book. Small enough to fit in a pocket and totally submersible. Cheap enough.
 
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