Emolis in a C M@g?

[SafetyBob]

I just received my Emolis from Jim today (Thank you!!!) and the cardboard is still on them from the Milwaukee battery pack. For grins, they look so small, I broke out the 2 C M@g I have sitting around here and tried to jam them in. Of course they did not, but it looks really, really close.

All you Emoli guys, before I take off the cardboard cover....what should I do, or what should I look out for? Can they just be used with the steel can exposed or should I use that Kapton tape a few have mentioned here?

Should I forget using these in C sized lights and just automatically go for simple and use a D sized flashlight?

I appreciate anyones help!

Bob E.

 

[mr.squatch]

I'm thinking the same thing... Best I can figure there's a problem. The whole body of the battery is the ground, all the way up to the top lip, so the pos on the bottom battery touching the neg on the top battery sends pos to the body of the flashlight. If you bore it out it'll go, it's so very close. But you gotta keep the tape. I need some new tape too. I may just heat shrink em after the bore if there's room.

 

[NA8]

Were the older C Mags without the initial "C" in the serial number a larger diameter tube the way the older D Mags were ?

 

[LumenHound]

Were the older C Mags without the initial "C" in the serial number a larger diameter tube the way the older D Mags were ?

Yes, they were.
Older C ID = 26.30 mm
Newer C ID = 26.24 to 26.21 mm

 

[Raoul_Duke]

I can slide Emolis in all my 7C mags ( no C in the serial no.) with the card on.

In My 6C's and below I can't and have to use realy thin tape, as I dont hone them out. But to be honest i havent tried it in anything below a 6C and I have all the C sizes.

If you remove the card, dont let anything short the can to the +ve nipple.

Push then out of the card rather than tearing the card off, so you can use it later if you wish. Just push on the +Ve nipple and the cell slides out.

They can discharge alot of amps, and melt metal....dont ask me how I know...but I do

If you put them in a C mag with no srink wrap ~ nekid ~ you get little arcs when you pull them out of the unanodised treads, so thats not adviable either.

Thin tape, or hone a little.

 

[mr.squatch]

Just received my newest C-mag today (blue woowoo!) and tried out fitments. It's an older no C serial number. I can just get em in without the cardboard and with the wrapping, but not with the cardboard. I'm considering a slight hone and 2x emoli rophi out of this lil monster. In my old style 6c same story. In my new 2c's, not a chance, even without any wrapping tape.


g

 

[SafetyBob]

mr.squatch, I noticed what appeared to be some sort of clear plastic covering under the cardboard. Will use your technique of pushing them out of the cardboard.

Guess I need to order some kapton tape too.

I guess we need to use our extended tailcaps we got from Fivemega with our emolis since they are longer than standard battery or will you use a 3C for a 2x Emoli ROP? Even with a extended tailcap, a 2C is still to short, right?

Bob E.

 

[mr.squatch]

Yes sir, there is some sort of tape (kapton?) under the cardboard. I just pushed mine out from the positive end. Yep, two is just a bit too long for a 2c, but I have a couple special tailcaps that give me room. I may try to score an old style 3c. My 3c 2x18650 light fits the batteries much nicer than the 2c 2x18650 does. With two emoli in there that should turn into an awesome little light. Not sure if the rop hi can take the higher voltage of two 4.2's but I think the rop low can. We shall see

g

 

[LuxLuthor]

I have said this many times, but I'll say it again. Using a KD Brake hone that sticks in an ordinary drill is cheap, easy, and gives that little extra room to let you use a more durable shrink wrap, so you are not scraping off the easily torn Kapton 1mil tape...or trying to jam in the cells and shorting them.

 

[mr.squatch]

I have said this many times, but I'll say it again. Using a KD Brake hone that sticks in an ordinary drill is cheap, easy, and gives that little extra room to let you use a more durable shrink wrap, so you are not scraping off the easily torn Kapton 1mil tape...or trying to jam in the cells and shorting them.

That's my plan so far, I figure it'll take a little time since it gets hot and no way I'm sticking my babies in a vice


g

 

[LuxLuthor]

Here is another tip I found....if you have a portable drill (to avoid electrical shocks), the KD Hone holds up perfectly well if you do it under a small trickle of water. The Hone/stones do not get damaged from the water, it keeps everything cool (I hold body in one hand...so you can feel the temp), eliminates the airborn dust, helps keep the stones from getting clogged with aluminum, which in turn makes it go faster. I have done 4 mags this way. Just reverse drill direction after 1-2 mins...and don't run it up into the threads.

 

[Germ]

Yes sir, there is some sort of tape (kapton?) under the cardboard. I just pushed mine out from the positive end. Yep, two is just a bit too long for a 2c, but I have a couple special tailcaps that give me room. I may try to score an old style 3c. My 3c 2x18650 light fits the batteries much nicer than the 2c 2x18650 does. With two emoli in there that should turn into an awesome little light. Not sure if the rop hi can take the higher voltage of two 4.2's but I think the rop low can. We shall see

g

mr.squatch, what special Mag C tailcaps do you have? I was thinking of using fivemega's tailcap to try and make a Mag 2C A123 26650 light, but I didn't think the 26650's would fit. From what I've read and speculated I didn't think the fivemega cap would stand much boring out without risking making it too thin at the threads.

 

[mr.squatch]

I dunno about that. I just bought three fivemega caps from another member and got two different kinds. One is very short, just as thick as stock in the end too. The other two are longer and have a stock length end hole, which means there's about 1/2" of metal left to take out. I took out as much as I could for a 2c 18650 ropLE and it was perfect. I think he had more than one, one was extra deep, like for a 2c 18650, then he had one that was deep and widened for a 2c 2xAW C cell, I also have a short one that's polished and isn't so square on the end. Plus I've read he has a wide base regular inside length one, like the ones I got. I dunno, it's like legos. lol

g

 

[Germ]

I dunno about that. I just bought three fivemega caps from another member and got two different kinds. One is very short, just as thick as stock in the end too. The other two are longer and have a stock length end hole, which means there's about 1/2" of metal left to take out. I took out as much as I could for a 2c 18650 ropLE and it was perfect. I think he had more than one, one was extra deep, like for a 2c 18650, then he had one that was deep and widened for a 2c 2xAW C cell, I also have a short one that's polished and isn't so square on the end. Plus I've read he has a wide base regular inside length one, like the ones I got. I dunno, it's like legos. lol

g

mr.squatch, do you have a C tailcap that an Emoli 26700 will fit inside? If yes, who made it and where do I get one?

 

[mr.squatch]

Nope, just tried it. I have been boring down the long/stock length flat base fm ones to get an extra half inch out of em. The 26700 emoli is so very close to the bore size of the light, there's no room for threads. The stainless fm cap I have has what I'd imagine to be the thinnest wall section where the threads are, imaginable. I dunno how to make that work yet. I'll do some parts swapping and measuring to see if it's possible. My 3c with 2 emoli is just right in length to still use the spring. I just gotta hone it out a little and fit em in with shrinkwrap. I was previously thinking 8.0-8.4 would be a bit much for the rop hi, but now going back looking at the charts it might just be a monster

Now on the look for a bipin bulb that overdrives nicely at 8.4. hmm dangit! I told you guys I had enough projects going! :nana:

g

 

[cat]

I have said this many times, but I'll say it again. Using a KD Brake hone that sticks in an ordinary drill is cheap, easy, and gives that little extra room to let you use a more durable shrink wrap, so you are not scraping off the easily torn Kapton 1mil tape...or trying to jam in the cells and shorting them.

Yes. Where can we get suitable shrink wrap? All I've found is shrink wrap for wide RC packs.

 

[SnowplowTortoise]

There are lots of heatshrink tubing sources online. I bought 5' of good quality polyolefin tubing for my emoli's on Ebay for $10 shipped. The problem, however, is that the quality is a little too good. The tubing is so thick that the cells won't fit in the body, even after maximum reaming with a brake hone.

Lux, any advice on which tubing material might work better? PVC? PTFE? Is the "thin wall" polyolefin much thinner than the standard wall? Thanks!

 

[cat]

polyolefin is the ordinary heatshrink tubing you get everywhere, for wiring/etc, but what they use on battery packs is glossy - plastic instead of rubber.

I could try it and see how it wraps over the top and bottom of the cell.

 

[jimjones3630]

this is fairly thin stuff I use

http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/?sid=654203&pgid=shrink

 

[SnowplowTortoise]

Jim, is that stuff PVC? The web site doesn't specify the material but I want to make sure it is not polyolefin so that the batteries will slide into the tube without too much friction. Thanks.

Cat, sorry - your question is more valid than I thought. I found zillions of places that sell reasonable quantities of polyolefin but none that sell PVC.