Fenix E01 unpotted & driver efficiency data
- Thread starter chimo
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chimo
Flashlight Enthusiast
It is a boost regulator (I don't know which one) but not either of these, however, if people want to do some sleuthing, the second one you have linked will be of interest to folks - take a close look at the data sheet. (Hint: it is used in a popular light)
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Probedude
Enlightened
It is a boost regulator (I don't know which one) but not either of these, however, if people want to do some sleuthing, the second one you have linked will be of interest to folks - take a close look at the data sheet. (Hint: it is used in a popular light)
Thanks. SparkFun used the latter in a Simon type game that I bought a while back. Pretty impressive given the size of the IC and the inductor.
Now I just have to find someone that sells singles instead of full 3K reels!
Dave
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chimo
Flashlight Enthusiast
You used to be able to get them in smaller qty. I believe you can still get them as samples. Cheers,
Paul
Probedude
Enlightened
Yep, though OnSemi is charging a shipping and handling fee of $11.
I did find that Newark has the 3.3V and 5.0V ones in stock in singles for $0.55 each. My Newark rep is in town on Tues - I'll see if they can sample me a few or will just drop them in an envelope to save on shipping costs.
Fallingwater
Flashlight Enthusiast
It's the LED.
I have a modded light (body from a 1xAA plastic supermarket incandescent, driver from the 1xAA 1x5mmLED from qualitychinagoods) in which I used a generic chinese white LED. It had a very clean, white beam, but little power.
I recently swapped in a GS; the output jumped up enough to make the light actually useful, but the beam is stupidly ringy, with blue-violet hotspot (good) and yellowish rings (bad). Some of the rings are given by the reflector - it's practically useless there since the swap, but it's an integral part of the head so I can't remove it - but most come from the LED.
Great work chimo
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hank
Flashlight Enthusiast
hmmm, anyone done anything recently with an EO1 that they can recommend?
I ask because I got the holiday deal TK20-plus-EO1 (for the TK20, obviously, and that's just what I hoped for outdoor/camping use). Happy as a clam with that.
I didn't know anything about an EO1 [EDIT, caught up, now I know the purple oval spot with yellow spill is normal. No worries.]
Having read the instructions for taking it apart with interest; I can do that with no hesitation on this light.
[EDIT -- found the several other EO1 threads; don't want to revive any of that; I see I have a typical EO1, and it can be opened up and taken apart, which I'd like to do]
Then what? (got a temp-controlled soldering iron and magnifier, but haven't yet tried taking a pill apart to replace the LED.)
Can I put in something like the SMJLED, if people are still using those? I dropped some of those into 2xAA M@gs and liked the results; if this light can drive that, it would be fine. Or a yellow/amber LED if anything's available that would swap in, though I assume the voltage wouldn't match. Any advice on what might be workable?
Anything better I can put into this case?
I ask because I got the holiday deal TK20-plus-EO1 (for the TK20, obviously, and that's just what I hoped for outdoor/camping use). Happy as a clam with that.
I didn't know anything about an EO1 [EDIT, caught up, now I know the purple oval spot with yellow spill is normal. No worries.]
Having read the instructions for taking it apart with interest; I can do that with no hesitation on this light.
[EDIT -- found the several other EO1 threads; don't want to revive any of that; I see I have a typical EO1, and it can be opened up and taken apart, which I'd like to do]
Then what? (got a temp-controlled soldering iron and magnifier, but haven't yet tried taking a pill apart to replace the LED.)
Can I put in something like the SMJLED, if people are still using those? I dropped some of those into 2xAA M@gs and liked the results; if this light can drive that, it would be fine. Or a yellow/amber LED if anything's available that would swap in, though I assume the voltage wouldn't match. Any advice on what might be workable?
Anything better I can put into this case?
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AvPD
Enlightened
What's the maximum input voltage the driver can handle, I was just running a Li-ion 10440 (4.09 V) but to my surprise found that it is not supported and that I could not find any mention of someone having tested one.
Fallingwater
Flashlight Enthusiast
Resurrecting this thread because I have a question specifically on this. Namely: were I to connect three Nichia GS LEDs in parallel to the output of one of these drivers, would they all be driven at the same level a single GS is? From what I know about CV converters the answer should be "yes", but I'm worried that the driver could let the magic smoke out if forced to deliver three times its rated current.
Also, judging by the back of the board, this driver seems to be roughly the same as used on the Nitecore T0. Has anyone confirmed this?
