Fenix LD01 - magnetic tailcap idea

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Re: Fenix LD01 Stainless Steel Limited Edition

my ones just suck
Real neodymium magnets are extremely strong. You must have fake ones.

Edit: I seem to have helped take this thread off-topic - my apologies - let's get back to the LD01 SS.
 
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Re: Fenix LD01 Stainless Steel Limited Edition

You should be able to find one here that fits:
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=10

Thank you for the link. :twothumbs

That has to be the widest selection of magnet sizes I have ever seen!

All I need now are official cavity measurements.
Is there anyone out there who could provide those to me?
7777's?
 
Re: Fenix LD01 Stainless Steel Limited Edition

Thank you for the link. :twothumbs

That has to be the widest selection of magnet sizes I have ever seen!

All I need now are official cavity measurements.
Is there anyone out there who could provide those to me?
7777's?
0.400 dia x 0.120 height :D
 
Re: Fenix LD01 Stainless Steel Limited Edition

Thank you so much for your service! :twothumbs Now to convert the measurements.

I hope the idea gets your blessing! Awesome
 
Re: Fenix LD01 Stainless Steel Limited Edition

Is this the right one? :D JUst kidding.

I have a quandry.
Should we go with a 3/8" x 1/10 that will be a tad recessed or try one that is a bit longer than the cavity is deep but is stronger 3/8" x 1/8?

The cavity is speced at 0.400 dia x 0.120 height. Do you think the 2nd choice will stick out too much?
 
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Re: Fenix LD01 Stainless Steel Limited Edition

you're talking .005mm; 5 microns. The tolerances listed (+-0.002 inches) is pretty much exactly 50 microns. So if you luck out you'll get one that is quite recessed. If you're really unlucky you'll get one that sticks out .06mm.

That is, of course, assuming the lights tolerances are that good (and the measurements from 7777 are accurate), Tolerances to the micron are only possible if it's temperature controlled machining or ground. If it's not temperature controlled, tolerances will be to the order of 0.01mm (10 microns). So yeah, you might luck out with the tolerances, you might not. I advise you buy both, though please don't recommend the one that fits better, as it won't be the same for everyone.
 
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Re: Fenix LD01 Stainless Steel Limited Edition

I'd go with the 1/10" to leave room for epoxy underneath it.
 
heh...just had a look at EssLight's link...theres so much choices in the grade, size as well as coating. Whats the difference in the grade and coatings?
lol at "ground shipping only" for the monster sized magnets! i wonder how thick their packaging has to be!
 
Re: Fenix LD01 Stainless Steel Limited Edition

I remember someone doing the magnet trick to an LOD or LOP. They used it to retain the light on a keychain without any mechanical connection, so it could just be popped right out by pulling on it. There was a mating magnet in the bottom of a small plastic shroud which was permanently attached to the keychain.

Here you go Marduke (I kept those photos):

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/oregun/P1070239.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/oregun/P1070234.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/oregun/P1070233.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/oregun/P1070230.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b188/oregun/P1070247.jpg

The clear plastic tubing redundantly keeps the fenix with you. It is in addition to the glued magnet (from DX).


oregon
 
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I do that all the time with my RC-C3 and a square neodymium magnet. I use it when fixing my cars. I never thought about posting a thread on it. I didn't think anyone cared.

dsc00830oy6.jpg


the magnet fits snugly between the steel clip and is very secure.
dsc00828qs2.jpg
 
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Re: Fenix LD01 Stainless Steel Limited Edition

you're talking .005mm; 5 microns.
Actually, its .005 inches, not mm. That is small, but still much larger than tolerances, and noticable if you do not want the magnet protruding from the base of the light.
 
Option 2 is a stronger magnet by a few pounds but I can't visualize how much it will stick out of the back. I am impared right now. :)

If it isn't TOO much I'd rather go for the stronger power.
 
Re: Fenix LD01 Stainless Steel Limited Edition

I have a quandry.
Should we go with a 3/8" x 1/10 that will be a tad recessed or try one that is a bit longer than the cavity is deep but is stronger 3/8" x 1/8?
I would go with the 1/10 so you can epoxy in it like Marduke suggested.

However, I'm thinking either of those magnets is going to be way stronger than needed to hold up an LD10 SS. Take a look at the product pages in the links, they list the pull force for each magnet, 8.61 lb for the 1/10", and 10.62 lb for the 1/8". The pull force is "The force required to pull a magnet free from a flat steel plate using force perpendicular to the surface. The limit of the holding power of a magnet" So, if you put the 3/8" x 1/10" magnet in the tail of a light, and put it flush onto a ferrous surface, it will take somewhere near an 8 pound pull to separate it. Then question then becomes, does the magnet continue to stick to the light, or does is stick instead to the surface you attached it to?

I have successfully used a 1/4" x 1/16" magnet to hold up a 2xAA 8 LED Xnova light. That magnet has a 3.67 lb pull force. I used Duco cement to glue the magnet to the tail of the light (glued to the cheap anodizing, which I roughed up with sandpaper). After just a few uses of attaching and deattaching from a metal surface, the magnet would pull loose from the light. I gave up on the idea. Maybe epoxy would have been better than the Duco cement. But if that small a magnet held up a 2xAA light, then that size would easily hold up an LD10, even an SS model.

I have some magnets, and an L0D-CE, I'll fiddle a bit and let you know what I find out.

EssLight

P.S. Thanks to DM51 for separating this thread out like it needed.
 
I think that slightly protruding would be better so that the magnet can grab whatever surface you're applying it to rather than pulling the end of the light towards it, particularly on an uneven surface.
 
I did a bunch of playing around with the magnets I have and my L0D-CE (a non-Q4 model, a bit more than a year old). The magnets that I used were a D41 magnet (1/4" x 1/16", 3.67 lb pull force, nickel plated) and a D42E magnet (1/4" x 1/8", 3.75 lb pull force, epoxy coated).

The magnets are pulled into the tail recess of the L0D-CE. The item they are attracted to is the spring inside the light. The battery is held far enough from the bottom of the light that I do not think it interacts with the magnet. I took the battery out, and saw that I could get the spring to wiggle by moving the magnet. Then I put the light back together, and it didn't work. :eek: I must have manipulated the spring into a non-contacting position. I fixed it by pressing down on the battery with my finger as far as I could, which seems to have re-seated the spring, since the light now works. :sweat:

While a magnet will sit in the tail recess of the L0D-CE, it has much greater affinity for the steel pocket clip. So I took a series of photos with the D41 supporting the light, showing that it has plenty of strength for basic attachment applications.


Ouch, that door is dirty.




When I removed the L0D-CE from the switch plate, the magnet came off the clip and stayed on the plate, I had to pull the magnet off by hand, not easy to do with a thin, strong magnet.


Here you see the D41 magnet sitting in the tail recess of the L0D-CE.

The D42E magnet is the same diameter as the D41, but it is twice as thick. The pull force isn't much higher, but it certainly feels like a much stronger magnet. I'll guess that the greater thickness leads to a larger magnetic field, so it has greater effect at a distance, but once it is flush to a ferrous surface the total pull isn't much higher. It fits very nicely in the tail recess of the L0D-CE and stays in better.

Edit: I should have payed attention to the magnet specs, they do specify the surface field, 2580 Gauss for the D41, 3750 Gauss for the D42E, that quantifies the strength difference that I feel.


The D42E sitting on the desk next to the L0D-CE


The D42E in the tail recess.


The D42E sits flush and does not protrude from the tail of the light. (Remember this is an old L0D-CE, a new LD01 may be different.)


The D42E will hold the L0D-CE perpendicular to a switch plate.

The black epoxy matches the black anodizing quite well, if I decide to glue in a magnet, I will probably use this one. K&J Magnetics only puts the black epoxy on a limited number of magnets, from what I see on the list the D42E is the only would that would fit an L0D or LD10, the others are too large in diameter.

For the LD01 SS, obviously the nickle plated magnets would match the finish best.


I did find out that the D42E is strong enough to hold up an old L2T.

I hope these examples prove beneficial to people. It does show that a smaller magnet does have plenty of strength to hold up an L0D/LD10. Might you want something stronger? That's up to personal preference. What fits best/looks best? Again, take your own pick.

Sgt. LED, you were trying to choose between two thicknesses, I'll give the typical CPF response: buy both, try them, see what works best for you. Since the magnets don't cost much, you might as well experiment.

On the concept of "how strong a magnet is too strong?", I don't know the answer to that. I'll ask a counter question: how stong is the epoxy you plan to use? And, how hard to you want to pull to get the light loose? And, what pocket do you carry it in, and what other items might it attach itself to?

Happy experimenting.

EssLight
 
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heh...just had a look at EssLight's link...theres so much choices in the grade, size as well as coating. Whats the difference in the grade and coatings?
lol at "ground shipping only" for the monster sized magnets! i wonder how thick their packaging has to be!

The website has an excellent FAQ page to answer your questions, I won't bother to repeat it here.

Er, except for this item here, recommended adhesives for the magnets:
39. What is the best adhesive to use with your magnets?
We and several customers have had great success adhering to the nickel-plating using Loctite 39205 with Loctite 7380 activator. A Loctite representative also has also recommended Loctite 3032 with Loctite primer 770. For more commonly found adhesives, we have also had good results using "JB Weld" epoxy, "Liquid Nails", and "Gorilla Glue", which are available in most hardware and home supply stores. It does help to scratch the surface of the plating lightly with sandpaper or other abrasive prior to applying the adhesive.
EssLight
 
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