Fenix PD32UE battery (in)compatibility help

[rviscuso]

First time post and unfortunately I'm asking for help. I recently purchased a Fenix PD32UE from Shaologear. I also have two Panasonic (green wrap, Made in Japan but no Panasonic label) NCR18650B 3400mah protected from Fasttech which I use in my budget light. So here's the problem: I put the battery in the Fenix and the light is already on. I push the tail button but the light stays on. Check the switch with a meter and it's ok for both full and partial push. The only way to turn on/off is to unscrew the end. With the light stuck on I select the various modes and all work except that burst seems just as bright as turbo. A buddy of mine has the same light. We swap tail buttons with no improvement. He uses CR123 batteries. We swap batteries and now his doesn't work right but mine does. Thinking that maybe the battery is somehow shorting out the button I cut a piece of electrical tape like a donut and place it over the negative end of the battery. Now the light doesn't come on without pressing seriously hard on the switch. The battery measures at just a hair under 70mm.

I contacted Fenix explaining the situation and received a response stating that the PD32UE can use rechargeable 3.7 V18650 Li-ion battery and CR123A batteries however the NCR18650B batteries cannot be used. I ask why it is not compatible and which ones are and was told to use 2600 mAh 18650 and that the NCR18650B battery is 3400 mAh.
This wasn't exactly the response I was expecting. How is it possible for battery capacity to have an effect on flashlight circuitry?

In the meantime Shaologear and I have agreed to return the light with one of my batteries to see if they can diagnose this situation.

What do you guys think? Is this a compatibility issue? Did I get bad batteries or light?

 

[kj2]

Looks like a compatibility problem. Has nothing to do with the capacity, but(I think) with the type of 18650.
I have 2 NCR18650A, no problem with those in my UE.

 

[bietjiedof]

It sounds like the insulation on your battery is faulty, and the battery casing is making contact with the body of the flashlight.

 

[LEDburn]

The way I read your post, you say your light comes on when you put the battery in, before you even screw on the tail cap/switch?
If I am misunderstanding, then you mean it comes on when the tail cap is on - does it happen as you screw it on, before fully done up?

 

[rviscuso]

Looks like a compatibility problem. Has nothing to do with the capacity, but(I think) with the type of 18650.
I have 2 NCR18650A, no problem with those in my UE.

Are yours green with no brand name printed as mine are? Protected 69mm or unprotected 65mm? I'm wondering if length is a factor.

 

[rviscuso]

The way I read your post, you say your light comes on when you put the battery in, before you even screw on the tail cap/switch?
If I am misunderstanding, then you mean it comes on when the tail cap is on - does it happen as you screw it on, before fully done up?

The light turns on once the tail cap has been firmly screwed on. If I should back it off just a hair the light turns off. In either case pressing the button either fully or halfway has no effect.

 

[LEDburn]

Definitely shorting on the tail cap then, more than likely on the retaining ring that keeps the switch in place.
Have a look inside the tail and you will see a metal ring with two indents opposite each other - that may be loose.
In the event it is lose, if you can find a way to tighten it, it may fix the problem you are experiencing. Sometimes needle nose pliers will do the job but there are a specific type that is designed to do that which I think is a handy thing for anyone to have anyway so may be a possible investment for you.

 

[LEDburn]

Was also just thinking: does the battery sit flush with the end of the battery tube or is it raised or recessed a tiny bit?

 

[bietjiedof]

Ahm... before you start messing with pliers... in the first post he said "We swap batteries and now his doesn't work right but mine does." Surely this means the fault is with the battery, rather than the flashlight?

If the insulation on the battery is faulty, and the casing (negative terminal) of the battery is making contact with the barrel of the flashlight, it would behave exactly as described - by by-passing the switch, the light would come on without the switch being operated. The OP even said his light operated normally with different batteries.

I have some "naked" 18650s (no insulation at all - it was damaged when I harvested them from a battery pack) and I've been experimenting wrapping them with insulation tape. It's a klutzy solution, but they do work in my PD32UE.

 

[kj2]

Are yours green with no brand name printed as mine are? Protected 69mm or unprotected 65mm? I'm wondering if length is a factor.

Green, no name, 3100mah, protected, around 69mm

 

[mcnair55]

Let us all know the outcome when you get your torch back from the supplier.

 

[rviscuso]

Thanks for the help! When the battery is placed in the tube it sticks up a bit, maybe 1-2mm? I sent everything to the dealer yesterday so this is from visual memory, which may not be so good, but it definitely sticks up past the tube. I did a visual check of the insulation on both batteries and I do not see any defects. The closest defect (if you want to call it that) I can come up with is where the insulation rolls over the ends and it is not perfectly centered. That is why I tried the donut shaped electrical tape with no success. The tape seemed to interfere with the ground connection between the tail cap and tube. I'm only guessing since its a bit difficult to see inside once assembled :duh2:. I did one final test which was to remove the tail/tube assembly from the head unit and without the battery in place took a meter to the center spring and the clean edge of the tube. Pressing the button half and full showed a good connection on the meter. So I'm thinking that LEDburn is on to something with the battery causing a ground problem.

The dealer, Shaologear requested this link so they are definitely interested in resolving this issue. I will keep you updated on any progress.

 

[klmmicro]

I have the same issue with the same cells in my PD32UE. It is how the cells are wrapped. I found that the bottom of the cell is exposed more than most cells. If I screw the cap on all the way, it bypasses the switch by closing the circuit between the spring and body contact ring in the end cap. Basically, you are using the cap itself as the switch. The reason the switch does not work when you back it off is you are losing contact between the body and the switch assembly.

To get these cells to work, I trimmed a piece of vynil tape to the diameter of the cell. Sorry, no pic at the moment. The keeps the cell from bottoming out on the switch assembly. Cut out a small hole int he center of the tape for the spring and the cell will work.

Hope this makes some sort of sense without pics!

 

[rviscuso]

I have the same issue with the same cells in my PD32UE. It is how the cells are wrapped. I found that the bottom of the cell is exposed more than most cells. If I screw the cap on all the way, it bypasses the switch by closing the circuit between the spring and body contact ring in the end cap. Basically, you are using the cap itself as the switch. The reason the switch does not work when you back it off is you are losing contact between the body and the switch assembly.

To get these cells to work, I trimmed a piece of vynil tape to the diameter of the cell. Sorry, no pic at the moment. The keeps the cell from bottoming out on the switch assembly. Cut out a small hole int he center of the tape for the spring and the cell will work.

Hope this makes some sort of sense without pics!

Yes it does! I tried doing the same thing with electrical tape calling it the 'donut' and placed over the negative end. I don't know what I did wrong; it just did not want to work for me like yours did. I would post a picture here but darned if I can figure it out. I will have to do some more reading on posting images. As for what I did, I took that piece of tape, cut a hole in the middle so the spring would make contact and then tried my best to make a square piece round, only it wasn't very round. There was probably too much tape around the radius edge of the battery
interferring with something which is why I had to press so darned hard to make it turn on. Too bad I have already sent the light to the dealer. Knowing that you have the same issue I would have liked to pursue my own solution. I'm wondering if a o-ring would work?

 

[CarpentryHero]

I use a Darkmatter 3400mah 18650 with no issues, aw18650 2900mah protected work great too. Might be the length of your batteries that are a problem?

 

[klmmicro]

I use a Darkmatter 3400mah 18650 with no issues, aw18650 2900mah protected work great too. Might be the length of your batteries that are a problem?

It is both length and the design of the bottom of the green label NCR18650A cell. There is a raised meplat on the base of the particular batteries that is wide enough to create a closed circuit across the spring and the contact ring. The length of the cell is longer than most and causes one to have to tighten the end cap to a point where you end up bypassing the switch.

If the bottom of the battery in question were actually flat, it would work without issue. As is, I have both of the ones I own working by using a tape donut on the base. There is a hole that allows for contact with the switch spring and the rest of the base is insulated. I also made sure that the ring that holds the switch in place is tightened down all the way. This allows for the cap to be screwed all the way in and the switch to work.

 

[rviscuso]

First off, a 5 ***** rating to Shaologear.com for outstanding customer service :twothumbs and excellent email communication. I received from them a new replacement light (the switch was failing on my old one), a new Fenix battery (which of course fits perfectly) and four custom made high quality vinyl donuts. What more could a guy ask for? These guys are great!

As for their assessment of the Panasonic/Fenix incompatiblity, it is basically the same as what klmmicro described; the long length of the battery along with the shape of the negative was making contact inside in cap. I tried their donut on the Panasonic and it worked fine although it did require additional pressure to screw on the end cap. The Fenix battery is 68mm whereas the Panasonic is 69.4mm. My concern with using the larger battery is what effect will it have on the springs? Will they hold up over time or lose their 'springiness'? For the time being I will stick with using the Fenix battery.

Thanks to everyone for their contributions!

 

[ShaoloGear]

I cut a LOT of those vinyl donuts. If anyone has cells with a similar problem and would like some, send me a pm. I'm giving them away for free, but you have to mail me an SASE.

 

[shelm]

It is both length and the design of the bottom of the green label NCR18650A cell. There is a raised meplat on the base of the particular batteries that is wide enough to create a closed circuit across the spring and the contact ring. The length of the cell is longer than most and causes one to have to tighten the end cap to a point where you end up bypassing the switch.

Best explanation!!

:thumbsup:

 

[duranged2001]

Just FYI, I purchased the Intl-Outdoor 3400mAh (black label Panasonics) and they fit just perfect.