First flashlight - $60 limit

[Gunner12]

I'd say start with an AA powered light. A few good oines include the Olight T15, Nitecore D10, Fenix L1D, LD10, L2D, LD20, and the iTP C8.

 

[yellow]

I dont see why it is of any use to recommend a light that runs from 2*CR123 to a starter.

There is a very high chance anyone has an AA charger + cells at home, so: Fenix L2D / LD20 or something (when it runs on 2*AA)

if one does not have a (good) AA charger and cells --> 1*18650 light instead of the 2*AA package.
cheaper, smaller, longer running (mor spice in cell) and also much better than 2*CR123

 

[Outdoors Fanatic]

I dont see why it is of any use to recommend a light that runs from 2*CR123 to a starter.

There is a very high chance anyone has an AA charger + cells at home, so: Fenix L2D / LD20 or something (when it runs on 2*AA)

if one does not have a (good) AA charger and cells --> 1*18650 light instead of the 2*AA package.
cheaper, smaller, longer running (mor spice in cell) and also much better than 2*CR123

I didn't know that a special graduation in the Advanced Flashlight "Sciences" was needed in order to purchase a decent CR123 light.

When I bought my first quality light, an Inova XO, the store clerk didn't say anything to me. He allowed me to walk away from there with a 2xCR123 flashlight, even without such Advanced Level of Knowledge and no previous experience at all, and I've survived!!

 

[PetaBread]

:welcome:


LiteFlux LF3XT! :twothumbs

 

[divine]

What do you plan on doing with this light?
Do you want to carry it with you all day everyday?
Would you like to clip it to the inside of your pocket?
Would you like to holster carry it on a belt?
What kind of batteries do you want to use?
How bright do you want it to be?
What is your experience with flashlights?
Do you like incan or led, do you hate incan or led?

I think that will get us started.

 

[divine]

When I bought my first quality light, an Inova XO, the store clerk didn't say anything to me. He allowed me to walk away from there with a 2xCR123 flashlight, even without such Advanced Level of Knowledge and no previous experience at all, and I've survived!!

I have never thought that the X0 was my first quality light.

I went from a Minimag LED to a X0 (a couple weeks later) to a Fenix L2D CE (the week after).

 

[techboy10]

:whoopin:

Lol, I made this account a long time ago and browsed the forums for about a week. Then I pretty much forgot about it and just remembered this weekend.

Time to get myself back on track though!

 

[techboy10]

What do you plan on doing with this light?
Do you want to carry it with you all day everyday?
Would you like to clip it to the inside of your pocket?
Would you like to holster carry it on a belt?
What kind of batteries do you want to use?
How bright do you want it to be?
What is your experience with flashlights?
Do you like incan or led, do you hate incan or led?

I think that will get us started.

1. Im probably just gonna use it as a general flashlight (around the house, at night in my car possibly, camping etc).

2. I don't think Ill need to carry it around with me all day, but I might every once in a while.

3/4. A clip/holster isn't necessary.

5. For batteries I would rather have to use AA's (since I already have a lot of Duracell rechargeable AA's) but I could possibly be persuaded to buy CR123's.

6. I would like for it to have multiple settings (like the P3D) and probably be around that brightness (max of around 200 lumens on a turbo-like setting).

7. I had this flashlight: http://www.dorcy.com/products.aspx?p=414260 that I got for Christmas one year to keep in my car. I liked it a lot but it broke and I couldn't fix it so I had to throw it away. Thats about it for flashlight experience.

8. I would prefer LED, but if it's a very good light, incandescent would work too.

Hopefully this should help a bit.

 

[Grubrunner]

Streamlight Tactical
Streamlight Polystinger
Surefire 6P
Pelican M9
Inova T3
Pelican 2330 M6
Fenix TK10
Pelican 7050
Dorcy 220
Streamlight Strion Tactical
Surefire G2
Streamlight Stinger

Hope this helps....

 

[foxtrot29]

I dont see why it is of any use to recommend a light that runs from 2*CR123 to a starter.

There is a very high chance anyone has an AA charger + cells at home, so: Fenix L2D / LD20 or something (when it runs on 2*AA)

if one does not have a (good) AA charger and cells --> 1*18650 light instead of the 2*AA package.
cheaper, smaller, longer running (mor spice in cell) and also much better than 2*CR123

Because in the end, it's the light combo that everyone ends up wishing they saved their money for. He might as well jump in with both feet and by something with infinite upgrade options! What the heck can he do with a D10 or and L2D? (They are great lights, I own a D10 myself).

 

[Swivelguy]

How about an E2L for a first real light? My current possessions are a 3D mag (stock incan) which is basically too big to do anything but sit in my closet and several fauxtons which I EDC. I'm looking for an indestructible flashlight for camping and other miscellaneous uses.

My impression is that the E2L is a lot like the 6PL, but with the addition of low-mode, allowing usage without waking everyone else up and with much longer battery life. For $30 more, that seems worth it.

I'm personally very anti-rechargeable, so I'd be buying primary batteries for whatever I do get.

 

[Chrontius]

Welcome to CPF, Techboy. Dorcys are a pretty good budget brand, but prepare to be impressed. I'm going to recommend the Surefire 6P reservedly; while upgrades are cheap and easy and plentiful, it goes through $3.50 of batteries an hour, if you buy Surefire's batteries. If you buy Energizers, that jumps to $20/hour! Granted, I have one on the table next to me right now, with a Malkoff M60 (best dropin LED ever!) but it's still a handful and not terribly cheap to feed.

When I came to CPF, I was the proud owner of an Inova Xo, the 1.4 watt reflectored version. I was advised at the time to buy the latest Jetbeam; it was a pretty good little light that was a lot smaller, a little brighter, and used one AA. I'm going to do the same - either the Element E3p ($58) or the version of the Element with a warm LED ($63). Both are about your budget, have the latest emitter from Cree, and are externally identical though they're tuned for different things: one for maximum brightness, one for better color rendering. (Personally, I'd get the warm E3p - it's easier to see things outdoors with them, and easier to identify colors if that's ever an issue) The user interface is simple, one of the best; and since it's stainless steel, it's pretty tough for a pocket light. Lots of pictures in this thread on the Marketplace. It'll also play nice with the rechargeable batteries you own.

Also, if you buy it from BugOutGear, he offers members here a Coupon Code for 10% off: cpfjet

 

[Burgess]

2. I don't think Ill need to carry it around with me all day, but I might every once in a while.

But . . . .


How can you call yer'self a techboy,

if you don't EDC carry a flashlight ?




_

 

[Sean]

1. Im probably just gonna use it as a general flashlight (around the house, at night in my car possibly, camping etc).

2. I don't think Ill need to carry it around with me all day, but I might every once in a while.

3/4. A clip/holster isn't necessary.

5. For batteries I would rather have to use AA's (since I already have a lot of Duracell rechargeable AA's) but I could possibly be persuaded to buy CR123's.

6. I would like for it to have multiple settings (like the P3D) and probably be around that brightness (max of around 200 lumens on a turbo-like setting).

7. I had this flashlight: http://www.dorcy.com/products.aspx?p=414260 that I got for Christmas one year to keep in my car. I liked it a lot but it broke and I couldn't fix it so I had to throw it away. Thats about it for flashlight experience.

8. I would prefer LED, but if it's a very good light, incandescent would work too.

Hopefully this should help a bit.

Although I wouldn't get one for myself, I would recommend a Fenix that takes 2AAs (like the L2D CE or L2T). Should make a great "first" light. That's what I got for my brother and he loves how bright it is. Then get an E01 for your keychain.

 

[yellow]

OK, I did not mention it:
the main consideration was cost!

a starter mentioning his budget (which is very good decided, btw), will he/she like a light that eats through a set of CR123 batts within an hour? Good for occasional / emergency, but for regular use?

so my point of view is: 1st good light, when powerful, should give the rechargeable option

makes 2*AA for "general" and 1*18650 for persons who want to go deeper into lights
(with the technology as is now)


PS: CR123s are way to cheap at Your place.
No need to go the rechargeable way and thus a high amount of unnecessary and dangerous waste - for nothing

 

[1dash1]

Techboy10:

Some have argued that you should jump into the deep end of the pool and learn how to swim.

I'd suggest that it is usually best to start off on the shallow end of the pool, because the vast majority of users are quite content to play there, rather than risk the dark waters.

A few things to consider:

a. Convenience. Nothing beats AA's for the combination of availability, ease of use (including management of safety issues and management of overpower/underpower issues), and compatibility (not just between flashlights, but between other electronic equipment).

b. Cost. Both for primaries and for rechargeables, the cost per unit is generally cheaper for AA's than for any other battery choice. (This blanket statement may not hold true for high power applications nor for high use applications - but we're talking entry level use, not high-end use.)

c. Choices. While it may be argued that the higher-end market seems geared toward lithium-powered flashlights, I'd suggest that the opposite holds true of entry-level lights - especially the lights that are sold locally, as opposed to those advertised on the internet.

So, for most entry-level users, I'd suggest a 1xAA or 2xAA flashlight. Rechargeable NiMH cells should be considered. However, if the flashlight is used sparingly, say one set of batteries per month, alkalines might be the cheaper alternative. Some have mentioned the Fenix L2D and LD20, these are both wonderful recommendations.

However, in your case, let me go out on a limb and recommend that you pick up the Fenix P3D and operate it on primary CR123 cells.

- It fits your bill. You're already familiar with it. It's the choice you expressed. So, why not? :shrug:

- Assuming that you don't go through more than one set of batteries each month, primary CR123's are reasonably cost-effective compared to RCR123's. This is especially true if you figure on the cost of a high quality charger and a good DMM (which I would strongly advise using when employing rechargeable lithium cells).

Note: By using primary CR123's, you avoid many of the safety and management issues associated with RCR123's. However, primary CR123's carry their own risks. Please do a search of this website and follow the prudent advice of experienced members.

 

[BigBluefish]

How about an Olight T10 with a spare T15 body tube? The T10 runs on 1 CR123a, the T15, on one AA. If you get the 2008 model, the light will work on either cell with a primary or rechargeable battery. If an older model, it will only run with primaries. The light has five output levels, with very good throw for a one-cell light, and adequate spill, IMHO. Build quality is good, and the UI is simple. I hate strobe and SOS, and the T10/T15 have them, but I found I never have to use them, their presence doesn't bother me, and I don't find myself accidently switching the light into strobe. You can get the newest version and spare body for about $56 (w/cpf discount) + shipping from batteryjunction. Or you can get what may be the newest, or older model (which is perfectly fine if you are using primaries) from 4Sevens for about $36 (w/cpf discount) and free shipping and get a T15 spare body from them if they have them in stock or from batteryjunction for about $8.50 + shipping.

 

[MichaelW]

What about one of those new Eagletac P100c2 or a2?
only two modes of operation, only $40.

 

[techboy10]

Ok, I've decided to get either a Fenix P3D or a PD30. Both are the same price on Amazon ($60) and Im gonna get a pack of 10 Energizer CR123a lithium batteries ($16). Can anyone tell me what the difference between these two flashlights are? I know that the PD30's reflector is different, but I don't know what is different about it.

Thanks

 

[Gunner12]

From the Welcome Mat thread:

E = AAA powered
P = CR123 powered
PD = essentially improved designs of the P2D and P3D series. Better tailcap knurling, improved tailcap design with better laynard ring, easier to turn head which is also an anti-roll hexagon shape, lower low, medium, and high, smoother talicap switch. Longer runtime on low, medium, and high.
L = AA or AAA powered
LD = essentially improved designs of the L2D. Better tailcap knurling, improved tailcap design with better laynard ring, easier to turn head which is also an anti-roll hexagon shape, lower low, medium, and high, smoother tailcap switch. Longer runtime on low, medium, and high.
T = CR123 powered with a forward clickie, two mode, tighten for high, loosen for low, uses a Cree XR-E Q5 LED (for now; when they add more models, this might change)

0 = 1 AAA powered, for the E series, 1 5mm LED, currently the Nichia CS, all twisties.
01 = 1 AAA powered, E series, multicolor anodizing, 1 5mm Nichia GS. 1 AAA powered LD series. Cree XR-E Q5 and three modes only, medium-low-high. Reflector is also improved and PWM is faster.
1 = 1 battery, for the E series, 1 Nichia Power LED, for the P series, a twistie. For the T series (T1) a 2 stage forward clickie light powered by 2 CR123 or RCR123 batteries with a clip. Uses a Cree XR-E Q5 LED in a textured reflector. Built to have thicker walls then the E and L series lights.
2 = 2 battery powered or for the P series, 1 CR123 with a clickie.
3 = For the P series, 2 CR123 powered.
10 = TK10 or LD10 --- TK10 an "improved" version of the T1 with a removable grip ring, aluminum bezel, and removable clip. Performance is not changed --- LD10 "improved version of the L1D, Look at LD to see what improved over the L1D.
11 = TK11, an "improved" version of the TK10 and T1 with a smooth reflector and the ability to accept 18650 batteries.
20 = T20 or LD20 or PD20 --- a 2 AA powered light similar to the other T series but has a neutral white LED instead of a cool white one. Has a smooth reflector, a rubber sleeve on the body tube for grip, and a removable clip. --- LD20, "improved" version of the L2D has body knurling. Look at LD to see what changes were made over the L2D --- PD20, "improved" version of the P2D, Look at PD to see what changed.
30 = PD30, "improved" version of the P3D, look at PD to see what changed.

+ = Special stainless steel run, a small run prototype that Fenix sold
P = "Premium" Luxeon I, V2.0 means 2 modes, Luxeon
S = Two mode (tighten for high, loosen for low) Luxeon I, Type II andodizing
T = Two mode (tighten for high, loosen for low) Luxeon III, V2.0 means Rebel 80, twice the output
D = Digital, Multimode
CE = Cree XR-E LED, newer and at least twice as efficient as the Luxeon I/III LEDs. For the same power, it puts out twice or more output
Rebel 80/100 = Luxeon Rebel 80/100 used, usually has a warmer tint
No designation = Luxeon I or III

If there is a thing after the CE, that is to designate the Bin of the Cree XR-E LED used. Q5 means it uses the Cree XR-E Q5 LED. No designation after the CE means it uses the P3 or P4, depending on date of manufacturing.

The Civictor V1 is a 1 AA twistie with Type II anodizing. There was a multimode stainless steel model made.

There was a special Titanium version of the L0D made. It was called the L0D Ti. There was also a Christmas version(red type II anodizing with Christmas decorations) called the L0D SE. There is also a Q4 version. There is was also a stainless steel version of the LD01.

If you want the P3D, get it from 4sevens. Currently at $45 without 8% off coupon "CPF8". If you want the brighter P3D-CE Q5 or PD30, then amazon might be cheaper if they include shipping in that $60.