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Wurkkos

precisionworks

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I just want to say how pleased I am that the moderators agreed to set up this sub-forum. About a year ago I first offered machining services & did not anticipate a large response. Now I answer quite a few emails every day from people wanting some type of mechanical modification.

The first thing I want to do is to break down the very long thread titled Surefire Boring. A separate thread for boring & for trit slots should make it easier and faster for someone to find the information they want. Another thread will be set up to show the machining process for various operations. All this is intended to make the topics easier to access.

I really look forward to posting in this section :)
 
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TEEJ

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Glad to see it!

BTW - the FIRST time I saw a thread titled "Surefire Boring Service", I thought it was a complaint...


:D
 

precisionworks

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Glad to see it!
Thank you for your kind words :)

BTW - the FIRST time I saw a thread titled "Surefire Boring Service", I thought it was a complaint...:D
LOL

If the clock could be turned backwards that thread title would be "Flashlight Machining Services" or "Flashlight Mechanical Mods". The first light to get bored was a 6P that had been sitting in the drawer for some time. When that turned out OK the thread was started with the SF name ... but it was never meant to be boring to anyone :nana:

A few non-SF lights came in, usually for a one-off mod. Somewhere along the line a member asked if trit slots were something that could be offered. Surely, why not? Talk about an education ... purchased an 8" Super Spacer that now resides on the left side of the mill table, matching tail stock on the right side, and there are more small end mills than I ever had before. Some for aluminum, others for titanium, 2-flute, 3-flute, 4-flute, etc.

Since the shop was busy with electrical & mechanical work plus flashlight mods it seemed like a great time to design an 18650 E-compatible body (see other thread titled ROTOR). PEU & I are partners on this & we'll see where it goes.
 

archimedes

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Congrats on the new subforum - :thumbsup:

Haven't yet had the opportunity to have any modding done, but the photos of your work that I've seen have all looked very impressive....
 

precisionworks

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Congrats on the new subforum - :thumbsup:

Haven't yet had the opportunity to have any modding done, but the photos of your work that I've seen have all looked very impressive....
Thanks archimedes :) I look forward to working with you.

a great time to design an 18650 E-compatible body:thumbsup:
LOL

I'd been kicking around the E-compatible idea for a while. My thought was a simple titanium tube made in one piece - this results in a thin O-ring groove wall thickness. In the Machining Forum I mentioned that none of my local shops want to run less than 50 of any small part. PEU emailed & said he knew of a shop where he lives that does small runs & prototypes. He then helped with the design ... to the extent that he put in lots of time & effort creating the SolidWorks drawings. We decided to make this a joint venture.

I'd though about my own sub-forum for a few months as the Surefire Boring thread continued to get larger & larger. It takes a very interested & highly motivated flashaholic to read through 460 posts spread over 16 pages. Greta was contacted sometime before the ROTOR was announced & she just finished setting this up today ... THANK YOU Greta :thumbsup:
 
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JAYKAY75

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great subforum! will be getting my first ever McGizmo next week and already I'm thinking about what to do with it next or what to get next, and I just know that this subforum will be a great place to get information and talk about things, especially for new members like myself, so thanks!
 

precisionworks

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great subforum! will be getting my first ever McGizmo next week and already I'm thinking about what to do with it next or what to get next, and I just know that this subforum will be a great place to get information and talk about things, especially for new members like myself, so thanks!
Thanks JAYKAY75 :)

Don makes a number of awesome lights. They have substantial thickness in many areas & really lend themselves to trit slotting. Some locations are shown below:

Image-9853934-151451063-2-Web_0_45531a5734223c31c1270c2358d6c68f_1


Something I've just started is the Twin Trit Slot, an idea first developed by CPF member PEU. This works on a Haiku or other light that uses the Ti McClickie Pak. A 1.5x5mm or 1.5x6mm faces the McClickie & a 2x6mm faces out:

Image-9853934-151794592-2-Web_0_a4ebd0613bd84d40b9c7fc70fcc4b21d_1


Image-9853934-151794590-2-Web_0_f1420e994e334e1e4b03668a2b4170be_1


Image-9853934-151794594-2-Web_0_32847b04729540b50b6ab56875d262fe_1



Make sure the links on your website match up with this development.
Good point Mattaus. Today has been a whirlwind - finalizing an electrical project that starts in 9 days, quoting a couple of new jobs, discussing the ROTOR project with PEU & (drum roll please) getting started on this sub forum :)
 
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Ginseng

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Congratulations, Barry! Both the quantity and the quality of your work merit this honor. I look forward to seeing and learning about many an amazing project in the time ahead.

Cheers,
Wilkey
 

nbp

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Well done Barry! Looks like a great place to hang out and learn something. Your work looks outstanding as usual. The slots cut through the Haiku tail are freaking awesome. :wow: Keep posting that eye candy brother. :thumbsup:
 

precisionworks

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Congratulations, Barry! Both the quantity and the quality of your work merit this honor. I look forward to seeing and learning about many an amazing project in the time ahead.

Cheers,
Wilkey
Thanks Wilkey. I'll try to keep this sub forum interesting & informative. Thinking about a thread that features "how this is done" since there is great interest in that topic.

Well done Barry! Looks like a great place to hang out and learn something. Your work looks outstanding as usual. The slots cut through the Haiku tail are freaking awesome. :wow: Keep posting that eye candy brother. :thumbsup:
Thanks nbp :)

You've probably figured out that when the machines aren't running I'm working on some different concept or design. The Haiku TTT resulted from that. Here's the way it developed ...

Jeff Hanko offered the 3D Trit Tail in some of his lights. Drop dead stunning work that is still highly sought after. Wanted a similar but different effect. Jeff's design incorporates the trit vials in the sides of the switch button & uses the internal tail surface as a reflector. Started looking at different lights & found that the Haiku/McClickie Pak has a somewhat similar internal tail surface. Hmmm.

Received a Haiku with no restrictions attached - the owner said simply "do something new & different". That was a while back & the owner would check in from time to time for an update. He was in no rush (thank goodness) & that allowed me to continue thinking about what to do. Got his Haiku out & measured the thickness of the tail just behind the O-ring at 3.81mm.

Plan A was to mill a 2x6mm slot & go deep enough that the tip of the ball end mill would just break through the inner wall of the tail & leave a window that would pass some light. After breaking through with the 2mm tool a 1.5mm tool would finish cut the very thin floor of the slot. Thought about that for a while & then came across the stainless steel bezel designed by PEU & sold here on CPF:

Image-9853934-151825672-2-Web_0_5c9fbed566bd0a3078988f3e851979e0_1


PEU's design is a "stepped slot" that allows a 1.5x5mm trit to shine through to the inside. The Haiku, with lots more thickness available, might allow stacking a 2x6mm over a 1.5x5mm. Measurement showed just enough room for both. Contacted the owner who simply said "go for it".

Plan B involves milling a conventional 2x6mm slot & then switching tools to mill the 1.5x5mm slot at the bottom of the larger slot. Might as well have turned off the lights when milling the lower slot as the tool was out of sight. Instead of looking at the part my focus was on the three digital readouts that indicated tool position. The result was what I hoped for & the owner is happy.

Cheers!

Those trit mods look mighty tasty. I'm curious to see what they look like once the Clicky Pak has a switch boot fitted into place, though.
Good point frystormer. If there was any way to replace the black rubber boot with a polished metal cover the effect would be magnified. Not sure that is possible but open to any and all suggestions.
 
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dbleznak

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Barry, I'm so glad this is set up!!! I can say that Barry does the best work around. I'm getting a TNC Ti 18650 host and you install trits like none other. Now I need to get your 18650 as well. Thanks again

Dan
 

precisionworks

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Barry, I'm so glad this is set up!!! I can say that Barry does the best work around. I'm getting a TNC Ti 18650 host and you install trits like none other. Now I need to get your 18650 as well. Thanks again

Dan
Thanks very much Dan :)

The TnC machining is top notch & their trit slots are perfectly done. Every trit installation is a challenge but for some reason the TnC installations finish out very nicely.

Congrats on the subforum Barry !!!


Pablo
Thanks Pablo. Separate threads will really help forum members quickly find the information they want ... without looking through one huge post.
 

nfetterly

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I opened up the sub-forum - 4 threads! Why are there only 4 threads!

Then I realized that you didn't have a forum before - congrats!

I've got a DLC coated Haiku - is it possible to cleanly (which I believe is the only way you do your work) put trit slots in it?
 

precisionworks

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I opened up the sub-forum - 4 threads! Why are there only 4 threads!

Then I realized that you didn't have a forum before - congrats!
Thanks nfetterly :)

I've got a DLC coated Haiku - is it possible to cleanly (which I believe is the only way you do your work) put trit slots in it?
Thank you again for your kind words.

The issue with DLC is the extraordinary hardness. . The HV (hardness value) of DLC can run from 1000-9000. FWIW industrial diamonds are rated at 9000. Solid carbide tooling is rated at only 1000 so it's unlikely that it will cut even the softest of the DLC's.

A diamond coated end mill might work to penetrate the DLC skin. Then a solid carbide end mill would finish the slot. Having never tried this I cannot say if it will work or not. Proving this out requires that someone send in a DLC light with the clear understanding that this experiment may end badly. I cannot imagine that anyone would do that. On top of that an additional $50 would be added to the job to cover the purchase of the diamond coated tool. Doesn't sound like a good idea to me but I'll give it a try if someone wants it done & will accept the risk involved.
 
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