First 'real' flashlight help :)

[Darwinsdead]

Any recommendations and/or assistance is appreciated! :wave:

1) How would you prefer to purchase the light?

Does not matter to me, wouldn't mind being able to play before purchasing but if I can't it's no biggie.

2) Budget: An easy question, but you may change your mind after answering the rest!

around $250 would be max

3) Format:

I want a flashlight.

4) Flashlight-specific format/size:

Every day carry medium (4-7 inches) or smaller.

5) Emitter/Light source:

LED

6) Manufacturer:

If it's a good light and fits most criteria I have no preference.

7) What battery type do you want to use?

Whatever is best, 123s?
(preferably not a rechargeable light)

8) How much genuine out the front (OTF) light do you want/need? Sometimes you can have too much light (trying to read up close up with a 100 lumen light is impossible).

I want to illuminate my entire backyard or a campsite (150-300 lumens).

9) Throw vs. Flood: At what distance will you be most likely to use this light? Select all that apply.

I want maximum throw possible

10) Runtime: Not over-inflated manufacturer runtime claims, but usable brightness measured from first activation to 50% with new batteries (Measured on maximum output).

based on maximum output a couple hours would be nice

11) Durability/Usage: Generally the old phrase "you get what you pay for" is very accurate for flashlights.

Very Important (Camping, Backpacking, Car Glove-box).
Critical (Police, Fire, Search & Rescue, Caving, Survival).

12) Switch Type and location (choose all that apply):

I want a forward clicky (Helpful for momentary activation and signaling).
I want a reverse clicky (For use with multi-mode/level lights).
I want a momentary switch (Predominantly for use with signaling and short bursts of momentary light only).
I want a twisty switch (twist head to tighten, and the light will stay on until head is loosened).
I want a tail mounted switch (found on the majority of today's high end lights).


13) User Interface (UI) and mode selection. Select all that apply.

I want AT LEAST 2 light levels. (Brighter/short runtime and Dimmer/long runtime.)
(not a necessity) I want a programmable light.

14)Material/Finish/Coating

Anodized Aluminum – either type II or III (hard anodized) (this is the most common for today's flashlights).
Stainless steel (durable, but much heavier than aluminum)
Titanium (durable and nearly as lightweight as aluminum, but can be moderately to significantly more expensive).

15) Special Needs/extras: Is there anything else you want or need that hasn't been mentioned? Select any below.

Red filter (for preserving night vision).

 

[burntoshine]

flashlights, like living creatures, have been evolving quite nicely. it makes it a bit difficult to make a decision these days.

what kind of switch do you prefer?

 

[carrot]

I'd start by looking in the direction of Malkoff lights. The fairly basic turnkey MD2 with a high/low ring will do exactly as you are looking for, but according to what you seem to be looking for the MD3 will be even better and certainly will exceed your expectations.

For the MD2 any old 1" diameter red filter will do, as expensive as Surefire's flip-up filters or as inexpensive as Bushwacker flashlight covers (do they still make these???). For the MD3, not sure, but there are red filters out there for other lights that may fit.

 

[KBobAries]

Ra Clicky 170, Surefire LX2, Quark Maelstrom.

There are other lights that also fit your criteria but the true flashaholics here will have to chime in. Being a wannabe, the above 3 are all I can name off the top of my head.

The first 2 I own and the Ra is my favorite EDC. The LX2 is a dedicated work light that I use during the winter months.

No experience with the Quark.

FWIW,

Dan

 

[Darwinsdead]

what kind of switch do you prefer?

TBH I don't totally understand the switches but what I'd prefer is a light that I don't have to cycle through every mode to get to the one I want. For ex. on a low->mid->high if i'm on mid I really don't want to have to click through high to get to low. Is there a UI that resets back to low level if it's shut off for a predetermined amount of time?

Momentary is also a very important factor...

Thank you all very much for the feedback please let me know what you're thinking.

 

[jhc37013]

So a good throwing light 4-7 inches with ~2hrs burn time and also a low mode with a max of $250. I believe you have plenty of choices.

Just a few choices might be the already mentioned Surefire LX2 or the E2DL if you want a clicky. Deerelight DBS, Jetbeam RRT-2.

For smaller and closer to the 4inch pocket light the Jetbeam Jet-I Pro, or the Surefire E1B. The HDS Ra 170 is very nice as well. Both the Jet-I Pro and HDS are programmable.

 

[Darwinsdead]

selfless bump

anymore input?

 

[jhc37013]

TBH I don't totally understand the switches but what I'd prefer is a light that I don't have to cycle through every mode to get to the one I want. For ex. on a low->mid->high if i'm on mid I really don't want to have to click through high to get to low. Is there a UI that resets back to low level if it's shut off for a predetermined amount of time?

Momentary is also a very important factor...

Thank you all very much for the feedback please let me know what you're thinking.

I know what your saying I don't like lights with memory either unless they are programmable. Check out the HDS Ra or Jetbeam Jet-III Military or any of the I.B.S lights. The Jet-III M has a forward momentary switch.

 

[Darwinsdead]

Thank you all very much for the input! lovecpf

After doing quite a bit of research I have decided that the RA clicky 170 is about as close to perfect for me as it gets! Maybe as close as my next paycheck!

 

[jhc37013]

Nice choice I have had mine for about a week and I'm just about ready to declare it the best EDC ever. It's rock solid and it seems everything is customizable. I bought the flush tailcap separately because I like the feel of it better and the way the UI works it's just easier for me, not that the tactical switch is bad or anything it's actualy one of the better forward switch's I have felt.

 

[Darwinsdead]

Will any 1" red filter fit?
is there a remote switch that will fit the clicky for a weapon mount?

 

[jellydonut]

I'd start by looking in the direction of Malkoff lights. The fairly basic turnkey MD2 with a high/low ring will do exactly as you are looking for, but according to what you seem to be looking for the MD3 will be even better and certainly will exceed your expectations.

For the MD2 any old 1" diameter red filter will do, as expensive as Surefire's flip-up filters or as inexpensive as Bushwacker flashlight covers (do they still make these???). For the MD3, not sure, but there are red filters out there for other lights that may fit.

I'll throw in my recommendation for the MD2 with the switch ring as well. Simple, durable, everything you need and nothing you don't. No ridiculous twist back-and-forth while shaking and praying to access the easter egg disco-strobe mode. Just a clicky switch for on/off, and then you can turn the head for low mode. Simple, simple is good.

 

[DREW297]

+1 FOR THE SUREFIRE E2DL. WHAT A FANTASTIC LIGHT!! I CANNOT SAY ENOUGH GOOD THINGS ABOUT THIS ONE. I HAVE A FEW GOOD LIGHTS AND THIS ONE IS WITH ME EVERY DAY, MOMENTARY/CLICK LOCK ON SWITCH 200/5 SUREFIRE LUMENS, 2x123 CELLS AND ATLEAST 2 HOURS OF HIGH RUNTIME AND 70+HOURS ON LOW. ALSO THE TIR LENS IS AWSOME. I HAVE THE 1.5AMP 493 LUMEN THRUNIGHT D26 DROP IN AND IT IS OUTTHROWN BY THE E2DL THE E2DL IS ALMOST AS BRIGHT A ROOM LIGHTER AS THE 493L DROP IN. ALONG WITH SUREFIRE QUALITY, CUSTOMER SERVICE AND RELIABILITY YOU WILL NOT, CANNOT GO WRONG. THIS IS THE LIGHT I WILL HAVE DURRING THE ZOMBIE Apocalypse!!!!

 

[somename]

Will any 1" red filter fit?
is there a remote switch that will fit the clicky for a weapon mount?

By chance what is your end application for this light? Almost sounds like you want a light that will throw far using a RED filter and have a remote switch for activation while mounted.

If that much is correct, I'm not sure the Ra Clicky is best. I'm sure there are many lights that throw further. Here are a few that fit the filter and or remote switch option.

It really depends if you want a REALLY good throw light with red filter options and the remote switch or would you deal with less throw for something more pocketable?

Quark Maelstrom G5 (350 lumen OTF)- Should throw great, red filters will have to be found to fit and no remote switch available now.

EagleTac M2SC4 MKII MC-E *Neutral White (700 Emitter Lumens) - Neutral tint will let more light pass through the red filter. Different shape maybe require a custom weapon mount. No remote switch for currently. Too big for EDC

EagleTac T20C2 MKII XP-G R5 (300 lumen OTF) - Good throw - Red filters, Remote switch and weapon mount available for $35 as a kit.
--Neutral white option (190 lumen OTF) available and may get more red light output when using the filter.

Fenix TK12 R5 (~ 280 lumen) - red filters and remote switch available for model.

Olight M30 Triton LED Flashlight with CREE MC-E (700 emitter? Lumens) - Red filters, weapon mount, and remote switch available but MUCH larger light. Too big for EDC.

Olight M20 R5 Warrior Tactical LED Flashlight (320 emitter? Lumens) - Close to Eagletac T20 in size. Red filters, weapon mounts, remote switch available and even a special ops version if direct strobe access is needed.

How do you intend to use this light most of the time?

 

[Cole07]

Surefire LX2 or E2D LED defender, preferably the E2D because of the strike bezel/lower price.

 

[MrBenchmark]

+1 for the SF LX2. The LX2 is just perfect, in my opinion. Great throw, two very well chosen brightness levels, a UI that is absolutely natural to use.

 

[MrBenchmark]

BTW, if you are going to use a red light fairly often, consider blowing off the red filter and getting a dedicated red LED light in addition to your white LED light. White LEDs are really blue LEDs with a phosphor coating. The coating does cause the LED to emit white light, but the amount of red emitted tends to be pretty low. So a red filter dims the light massively, because there just isn't much red to begin with. They will work, but it's not very efficient. (You'll use a lot of battery to generate not very much light.)

Consider a dedicated red light like a zebralight H501r, or even a keychain red LED like a photon freedom. The H501r can be used as either an angle flashlight or a headlamp. Again, if you're only going to use it once in a blue moon it doesn't matter much.

 

[red02]

BTW, if you are going to use a red light fairly often, consider blowing off the red filter and getting a dedicated red LED light in addition to your white LED light. White LEDs are really blue LEDs with a phosphor coating. The coating does cause the LED to emit white light, but the amount of red emitted tends to be pretty low. So a red filter dims the light massively, because there just isn't much red to begin with. They will work, but it's not very efficient. (You'll use a lot of battery to generate not very much light.)

Consider a dedicated red light like a zebralight H501r, or even a keychain red LED like a photon freedom. The H501r can be used as either an angle flashlight or a headlamp. Again, if you're only going to use it once in a blue moon it doesn't matter much.

+1 on the photon freedom. its the best complementary light to any high powered thrower there is.

 

[Darwinsdead]

Throw with red filter does not matter very much. Red would only be used for very short to medium distances.

White throw is fairly important thought, what kind of effective range does the RA clicky 170 have? (as long as it's reasonable having a pocketable light is more important than being able to see extremely long distances)

Weapon mount/remote is more of a convenience than a must.

I looked at the SF LX2 very long and hard, and really like it, but for the $ only having 2 outputs and not even being able to select any other output levels is a turnoff.

I can't thank you all enough for your feedback, it is all greatly appreciated! lovecpf

 

[MrBenchmark]

Throw with red filter does not matter very much. Red would only be used for very short to medium distances.

I was talking about output / runtime on the red light. If you are going to use that extensively, get a dedicated red led. That's all I'm suggesting. The performance of a typical white LED with a red filter is awful.

I looked at the SF LX2 very long and hard, and really like it, but for the $ only having 2 outputs and not even being able to select any other output levels is a turnoff.

Sometimes less is more. Two well thought out and chosen outputs that come naturally to you is better than having to guess what mode your light is going to come on in. (Not knocking the other lights with multiple modes - I have some of these too and they definitely have a place.) Also, for the SF price you are paying for perfection. Note - it may not be perfect for you - I'm not saying that. But for its designed purpose, it is perfect in my opinion. Anyhow, they charge for that!

Anyway, best of luck whatever you choose - happily there are a LOT of great choices out there, so I'm sure you'll get something awesome!