*Fixed* Wicked Lasers Torch. Help with tailcap.

[jeffreythe00]

Hey everyone!

I am new here to this forum.

Anyway, lets cut to the point.

I recently purchased a WL worth when only 2 weeks of use the tailcap died.

Now I am here for some repair/replacement help if possible. I already know the company I bought the flashlight is BAD! (Is horrible good enough?) I have not seen any repair/replacement threads for this type of flashlight if it is even possible.

Below is a link to my tailcap. I have tried to force the pcb out. I have tried lubricant, acetone ect to try and get the pcb loose with no luck.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk98/jeffreythe00/CIMG3150.jpg

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[LuxLuthor]

Re: Wicked Lasers Torch. Help with tailcap.

Jeff, welcome to CPF. I have not seen a WL in person, but Mac's design had a PCB disc that was held in place with a snap-on clip spring. On the outside of the tailcap there was a rubber covering a Judco 10Amp switch. Not sure if that hole is to release a clip or use it to rotate disc which unscrews from an anchor nut underneath.

 

[jeffreythe00]

Re: Wicked Lasers Torch. Help with tailcap.

Jeff, welcome to CPF. I have not seen a WL in person, but Mac's design had a PCB disc that was held in place with a snap-on clip spring. On the outside of the tailcap there was a rubber covering a Judco 10Amp switch. Not sure if that hole is to release a clip or use it to rotate disc which unscrews from an anchor nut underneath.

Thanks for the help! I tried what you describe above and found no clip spring.

However today I managed to get it apart with some brute force. When I say force... I mean FORCE!

Heres what I did in details.

WARNING! LARGE PHOTOS!

So I got it in my mind that I would either fix or break this flashlight. There was no other thing on my mind.

I went searching around for a hex key that fit into the hole that is in the PCB. After about 15 minutes of prying at it the PCB finally popped out. It took a lot of force and the PCB is surprisingly strong!

The spring and PCB are attached to each other with the riveted copper contact. The PCB sits on a aluminum retainer ring that just slides into the cap. Under the retainer ring you can see a aluminum mounting plate for the ground and the tailcap switch. (see photos below)

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk98/jeffreythe00/CIMG3240.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk98/jeffreythe00/CIMG3242.jpg

Here you can see how the switch and ground are attached.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk98/jeffreythe00/CIMG3243.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk98/jeffreythe00/CIMG3250.jpg

These next photos show the switch and ground wire detached from the mount. The ground is only attached by a small screw.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk98/jeffreythe00/CIMG3251.jpg

Since the flashlight worked fine when I bypassed the tailcap, I knew for sure it was the switch or wiring. I then proceeded to check for shorts. After seeing no sign of a short I then proceeded to take apart the switch.

Here is a photo of the switch's internal components. Pretty simple. There was no sign of any damage anywhere in the tailcap. So After I took apart the switch i stretched the spring a little bit to give it more *click*! :)

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk98/jeffreythe00/CIMG3252.jpg

I then proceeded to make sure all connections were tight and everything was properly connected.

The next photos only show how much damage the tailcap components received after I forced them all back. I must mention. The PCB was JUST as hard to put back as it was to take out. I had to use my body weight and a screwdriver to force it back in. I carefully did so and it worked like a charm.

http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk98/jeffreythe00/CIMG3253.jpg

Finished product!
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk98/jeffreythe00/CIMG3254.jpg

Problem?: Well my guess is there was something loose whether that be the switch itself or a component.

Solution: Manpower.

Anyway thanks for reading! :wave:
Jeff

 

[LuxLuthor]

Re: Wicked Lasers Torch. Help with tailcap.

Excellent work and documentation for others. Now you will always know how to fix it. I am really happy to see them using the Judco 10A switch, given the current of The Torch's Osram 64623 bulb.

With any high current switch, there is going to be some carbon formation from arcing as contact is just broken. Over time, that can lead to the switch not making contact. A light sanding and adding some Caig DeOxIt Pro-Gold will restore it.

Here was an old thread I did showing the parts of that switch, and where you can get replacements if you ever need it. They are pretty cheap at Digikey.com

Edit: It seems that PDF is gone, but I did a little searching, and I believe this is the switch you need. If it's critical, I have a bag with part numbers in a box upstairs I could verify.

Here is how Mac spring anchored his PCB, without the separate removeable aluminum cup.

 

[jeffreythe00]

Re: Wicked Lasers Torch. Help with tailcap.

Just a small update.

Ive had this issue again today and I am unsure why it keeps happening. However i quickly fixed the issue by unthreading the tailcap from the flashlight and smacking it a few times on the table. Seems to be some sort of connection issue obviously. Not sure what is causing it though.

This update is just a note for any person who may be having the same issue and needs/wants a quick fix.

 

[LuxLuthor]

Re: Wicked Lasers Torch. Help with tailcap.

It's likely a contact issue either from the lubricant, or oxidation on contact springs, etc. There can also be arc carbon buildup on various parts. Like I said in previous post, get some DeOxIt.

 

[HotWire]

Re: Wicked Lasers Torch. Help with tailcap.

Welcome to CPF! You did a great job repairing your switch. You can order switches here: http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts-kws/judco-switch I would order one just to have it on hand. Look for the 10A switch. If you have any more trouble I would replace the switch (keep the old one), clean the aluminum parts that touch each other, and as mentioned before de ox it can be very helpful. I'm suspicious of the al/al contact inside the tailcap. De ox it will help. Is there any way you could move the ground wire to the cap itself? Just a thought... Great job!