HDS 140cn

[WYlightGUY]

With HDS working on a 2xAA tube (exactly what I have been looking for), I thought to research which head I would eventually order with it.

Pouring over the HDS website and the 'net, I cannot pin down what type of emitter the current batch of Clicky/Twisty lights use. I see a "warm white" and a "guaranteed tint" (not sure what that means) on their site, but I am unsure if these are the Cree XP-G/E series like the Quarks for which I can find beamshots.

I want a "neutral white" color, and my searching has found beamshots of the discontinued 140cn model (as opposed to the 140c-gt) that appear to be the best for me.

Questions:

1) what emitter do the current HDS models use (cree, osram)?
2) Among the current offerings, what is the closest to the 140cn tint-wise?

 

[Bullzeyebill]

From all indications, Henry is using the Seoul P4 U2 bin for the gt model, and all non narrow beam HDS Ra's, except the Hi CRI Seoul, which would be a P4 T bin, unless I am mistaken. Narrow beam is the Osram GDP LED.

Bill

 

[gswitter]

I want a "neutral white" color, and my searching has found beamshots of the discontinued 140cn model (as opposed to the 140c-gt) that appear to be the best for me.

The 'n' in 140cn was for narrow, not neutral, and you can still get an equivalent of the 140cn via the EDC Custom-built options.

Edit: And I don't remember if 140cn was an actual HDS moniker. If may have just been CPF shorthand.

 

[Henk_Lu]

If you want a neutral one, you must go for the 100 high CRI, all other emitters in HDS are cool white.

But, pay attention, the high CRI is 3700K, which is on the border to warm white. The emitter is special, in the hotspot it is nearly white, on a white wall you see a brownish corona around the hotspot and the spill is more on the yellow side. if you use this light in nature, it is nearly as an incandescent, the hotspot is bright and colors are much more intensive than with a cool-white emitter, the corona around the hotspot lets colors appear darker, you focus on the hotspot of course, the spill is nice and well colored.

GT stands for guaranteed tint, which means that the light is pure white, please see HDS website for details what "pure white" really is. I don't have such an emitter yet, I just ordered one with the 17670 compartment. The emitter itself isn't special, if you're lucky, you get the same one in a normal 140 with the wider beam, the emitters for the GT are tested on their tint and only those are chosen that emit pure white.

As it has been said, the Cn versions have a narrower beam and they use the GDP emitter, the wider ones use the P4. My preference goes to the Seouls, they give a very universal beam, I willingly trade a little throw for a nicer beam and more flood.

 

[WYlightGUY]

Hmmm....

It sounds like I have a choice between the "regular" cool white LED blue, or a "warmer" tint.

Does anyone know if the "warmer" is closer to the Quark "Warm-white" that is now being offered, or the "neutral" that can be seen in this thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=275751&page=2?

This will be my first RA and I would like to choose the right one.

Thanks for all the replies

 

[aldagoods]

WYlightGUY -

I don't own a quark, but used a "cool white" RA 140cn recently, and was able to compare it with a nitecore extreme R2, Novatac 120P, a 6PL and an optics HQ TLS conversion head on an E2e. We were all outdoors on a pretty dark night-- no whitewalls. Sorry in advance, I dont have beamshots.

color comparisons, warmest to coolest:

RA 140cn - slightly yellower/warmer than the 120P [more similar to the neutral white]

120P: noticibly, but not significantly cooler white than the RA; much warmer than the Nitecore; The jump from the RA to the 120P was much smaller than the jump from the 120P to the Nitecore in color temp.

Nitecore was "whiter" similar to the quark cool white.

TLS similar to nitecore.

6PL just looked out of place with a much bluer tint.....

The RA 140cn seemed closer to the neutral quark moreso than the warmer. Sorry I don't have pics. I will say that I am jealous of the 140cn, as I bought it for my mom. I have had the 120P for several years and love the beam and color --- and will say, that if that light fails, without a doubt would get a 140cn to replace it. Very nice color, and fantastic beam. Note, we did not order a guaranteed tint for her, and couldnt be happier.

 

[Jeff S.]

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showpost.php?p=3196208&postcount=1



The link above has some comparison shots between the warm and the regular emitters.

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Was playing around today with my Ra Hi CRI clicky, and my Surefire 6P, using the stock P60 LA and was astounded by the difference in tints between the two. The Hi CRI looked pure white compared to the P60, which showed a definite yellow tint. Very interesting because I thought that the Hi CRI would be more yellowish, which is is when compared to a 120 narrow clicky. Outside tonight the throw of the P60 was comparable to the 120 narrow, that because the yellow seems to print very well at distance. The interesting thing about the P60 is that about 90% of the output is in the center spot, a desirable feature I believe for small lights to have, giving good throw to the light. I would like to see a warm white narrow bean Ra (Osram GDP). I think that would be a good thrower at night even at reduced output.

Bill

Bill

 

[WYlightGUY]

Jeff S.,

Thanks for the link. It shows that there is a huge difference in the two emitters HDS is using.

Comparing this to the quark WW beamshot threads it appears that it is basically a "cool" vs. "warm" choice when choosing a RA light.

This could be a tough decision. I would use the torch mostly outside for walks/hikes. I guess the next step would be to find outdoor beamshots....