HDS Systems EDC # 17

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on a note about drivers,...
how does the HDS driver compare then to say other drivers out there ?,..
i mean for example, Prometheus lights have great engineering on the outside, but use a $2 NANGJG 105C on the inside.
i take it Henry's driver is much more superior , reliable right?.
is his worth $2 too?,...surely not.

thanks.

Calling what "drives" the HDS lights a "driver" is a bit like calling a computer a "glorified abacus". There are computer chips in the light that control and regulate everything from volts, wattage, heat, etc. Henry designed the entire circuit board and electronics that run the lights, and did all the programming to make them function as he wanted. It's one reason his lights are not copied. I had this conversation with Henry about a week ago. He stated that yes, some Chinese companies could conceivably copy his light, but even for them, would not be cost effective.
 
So I broke down. After being mostly mystified by the HDS attraction, I've ordered an LE 250. Should be here by the end of the week. Any tips for an HDS noobie?
 
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New lanyards are done!

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That's a twisted constriction knot and diamond knots to finish it off.
 
I’ll get a photo of it later this week if I can. I'm currently swamped in my own business.

Sorry to have to put you thru that... not with your injured finger and everything. Hope the rum helps :P


... Going through the 100 posts that BullseyeBill was kind enough to delete would have been a complete waste of time and probably given Henry a migraine.

I do know that a lot of “assumptions” can happen here, most of them quite contrary to reality and more times than not, done by a Troll, and I attempt to dispel those.

I'll be needing that light soon, trying to check under the bridge for trolls, no sightings as of yet in this new thread :P


In all seriousness though, since you've just name-checked some well-known CPF modders / makers here... I noticed that Vinh had been modding lights with CREE XPL emitters. Any chance for Henry to get his hands on some and test on existing hardware/setup?

Edmund
 
Dang I want to buy me a new HDS light. I REALLY want to get a Rotary, but I need a clip - it's been too long waiting for one. :mecry: Yes, I know I am whining - but I really, Really, REALLY want a clip for the Rotary.
 
So I broke down. After being mostly mystified by the HDS attraction, I've ordered an LE 250. Should be here by the end of the week. Any tips for an HDS noobie?
The only problem with buying an HDS is that makes all other lights look like junk. :D
 
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Dang I want to buy me a new HDS light. I REALLY want to get a Rotary, but I need a clip - it's been too long waiting for one. :mecry: Yes, I know I am whining - but I really, Really, REALLY want a clip for the Rotary.

You could do bezel up clip? That's my plan. I'll post pix once I get everything in place.
 
I'm not a pocket clip person / user, but anyone try the Coleman Clip? Looked like it worked pretty good in the photos. No worry about scratching the body of the light because, IIRC, the clip wraps around the body below the Rotary's tail cap.


Anonymous
 
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Dang I want to buy me a new HDS light. I REALLY want to get a Rotary, but I need a clip - it's been too long waiting for one. :mecry: Yes, I know I am whining - but I really, Really, REALLY want a clip for the Rotary.

I was the same way about the clip, had two rotary and another on the way. I contacted Hogo about a holster and ordered one. I've used it a lot more than I figured I would, very secure and convenient. Also makes carrying multiple lights easier with one on your belt.
 
I'm not a pocket clip person / user, but anyone try the Coleman Clip? Looked like it worked pretty good in the photos. No worry about scratching the body of the light because, IIRC, the clip wraps around the body below the Rotary's tail cap.


Anonymous

I haven't found one that would fit yet. You can't put it between the reflector and the body as you end up with a badly focused LED.
 
Can you not put it between the reflector and the bezel? This requires a fatter o-ring on the lens, but the reflector stays the same distance from the LED, maintaining focus.
 
When I unscrew the bezel the reflector comes with it. I wasn't sure if the newer ones were threaded like the older ones where the reflector would unscrew from both the bezel and the body. To be honest, I never actually tried to unscrew the reflector from the bezel. It's not ideal clip location - but maybe I'll have to give it a second look.
 
I swapped out bezels once for one of Delghi's 3 trit style.

Once I unscrewed the original bezel (Yes, the reflector was attached), I was able to twist the reflector loose with a little effort.
You can access the o-rings then.
 
Only about 4 of these were made. I know for sure that 3 of those 4 were reprogrammed to the latest Tactical firmware. One is in Henry’s pocket, one is in my pocket, one is in a mutual friends pocket, and the other, if it was not sent back, went to a firearms training center that is rather famous. That one may or may not have been sent back, but if it was not, it would most likely be the only one that exists with that original firmware. No more of them will be made.
Tactical lights have the lowest setting of .02 lumens.
Hogo/Thor/Dan over and out.

Thank you very much for your answer :)

It seems like I will have to buy one of the final version. I guess I will get to know approximately what level the rotary is dialed to after some time, on my rotary I usually start the light pretty close to where I want to be.

Time to start saving for my first brand new HDS :)
 
Just got these beauties in the mail today. I had Dan make a matching holster for my 6Ps and Malkoffs. The light and holsters are fantastic. Thanks Dan.
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I can't see how there would be any serious problems swapping LEDs since Henry under-drives his emitters anyway. But as you say, the output is definitely going to be affected one way or the other.

I have some knowledge about electronics and there is no problems in swapping emitters as long as you don't change the forward voltage to much. In that case you could either trigger the low-voltage protection or even worse, burn the emitter or electronics.

So if you use the data sheets and find similar emitters it should work fine.

One problem would off course be to know what output you would have. One of the big advantages with HDS Is that EVERY single light is calibrated. Let's say the data sheets says that a LED should give 250 lumens with 1A current, and you swap it with one that the data sheet says should give 400 lumens with 1A current. Then you would think you would get 400 lumens out, but this might not be true. If your originally LED is very efficient it could be giving 250lumens on 0.8A, and since your light is calibrated to give 250lumens the max-current would be 800mA. For you to achieve 400 lumens you would need to win the lottery and get your hands on a LED which is 20% more efficient than normal for that bin. You could even be really unlucky and find one that is 20% less efficient than what the data sheets says is the normal.

If you are not worried about exact output you would normally be somewhere around what you would expect since both the LED you remove and the one you replace it with should be within specifications. So a newer LED which the data sheet says is 30% more efficient should normally give you around 30% more output with the same runtimes, or the same output but with 30% longer runtime if you choose a lower level.

And there are off course other benefits with LED replacement like choosing your tint, which for some people are more important than knowing exactly your output at any given time.
 
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