Headlamp beams

[gcbryan]

The end result is that I'm leaving tape over the H51 with one hole punched in the middle. By the way it's not easy to punch a hole in tape!

It throws much better than the H51f and still has the diffused edge so no tunnel effect. It doesn't throw as well as it did without any tape of course.

When I tried to enlarge the hole since it's such a small area in the first place the diffused edge effect went away so I got a new piece of tape and punched the original sized hole and called it a day.

I then compared it to my Storm headlamp with has an optic to which I added a piece of tape (no hole) from the start. The Storm at 100 lumens still throws further and is in my judgment slightly the better overall beam than the H51. Even when the H51 is at 200 lumens the Storm still throws a little further. This difference isn't great. The H51 just has its light beam a little more diffused overall.

So now I have the H51f for a floody hiking light and the H51 for a little more directed beam in a hiking light. They each are in effect spare battery carriers for the other as well.

The H51 with no tape would be OK I guess if it were always used when the H51f was on but otherwise I just have no use for a beam like that.

I have 4 nice headlamps now with the worst being the EOS which is a good headlamp in its own right. Its main problem is that the low isn't low enough and the strobe isn't hidden.

Both the Storm and EOS are bulky compared to the Zebralights of course and using an AA and a single one at that is a nice advantage (IMO) of the Zebralights.

I can't say for sure what the effect of the hole in the center of the tape is since I know that using tape results in greater throw than using a frosted glass anyway.

To know for sure that the hole is making a difference I would have to put a piece of tape over the hole and see if throw was diminished but given how hard it was to deal with the tape in the first place I'm not going to do that :)

 

[B0wz3r]

Interesting idea! Thanks for the info. You'd probably find it easier to punch a whole in something with a little more thickness and toughness, like DC-fix.

I wonder what a small aspheric would do if attached to the lens of a headlamp with a general purpose flashlight style beam, like most ZL's? That is, an aspheric that's smaller than the diameter of the lens it's attached to... I wonder if it would give the same effect.

 

[Gregozedobe]

I like Bolster's double-emitter ZL headlamp idea (one flood, one throw), but the user interface would need a lot of thought. You need to be able to select the output level for each LED separately, and also have either or both LEDs going at once. I have a custom headlamp made by ahorton with one aspheric XR-E, two lisa flood optic XP-Gs and one 5mm red LED, and the UI is (necessarily) quite complex.

I wonder if a "spot" optic would be more suitable than an aspheric lens for the throw LED ?

 

[gcbryan]

Interesting idea! Thanks for the info. You'd probably find it easier to punch a whole in something with a little more thickness and toughness, like DC-fix.

I wonder what a small aspheric would do if attached to the lens of a headlamp with a general purpose flashlight style beam, like most ZL's? That is, an aspheric that's smaller than the diameter of the lens it's attached to... I wonder if it would give the same effect.

It would (IMO) as long as the lens it's attached to was diffused. It would be like any other aspheric however and would project the emitter shape.

It would be better for a headlamp (unless especially long throw was needed) to use an optic. My Storm (and most other headlamps do this) uses an optic which has some throw but is diffused as well since this is a more pleasing pattern for hiking.

That's all Zebralight really needs to do to make the H51 into a hiking headlamp. H51f works but if you want a little more throw H51 isn't quite the right solution for hiking (IMO). Using a good optic would do the trick. In the Storm they have the right idea but the optic and the way it is covered by an odd shaped plastic covering isn't done just right. A piece of tape over all that however results in the best beam yet of all my headlamps. Even the outer plastic covering over the lens is more or less the shape of a piece of tape so when you use tape you can't even see it after it is applied.

With the EOS you can see it since the optic is curved and you are applying it directly to the optic.

 

[gcbryan]

I like Bolster's double-emitter ZL headlamp idea (one flood, one throw), but the user interface would need a lot of thought. You need to be able to select the output level for each LED separately, and also have either or both LEDs going at once. I have a custom headlamp made by ahorton with one aspheric XR-E, two lisa flood optic XP-Gs and one 5mm red LED, and the UI is (necessarily) quite complex.

I wonder if a "spot" optic would be more suitable than an aspheric lens for the throw LED ?

The UI would be a little more complicated but really if you just add a 3-way sliding switch for spot/both/flood and a memory for the spot or flood setting only for when the switch is set to "both" you could use the same UI.

Just set spot in spot mode and flood in flood mode. When you move the switch to "both" it would use that setting. If you only go to spot (or flood mode) there would be no memory and you would use those modes as you do currently.

I agree regarding the "spot" optic rather than an aspheric.

 

[gcbryan]

Interesting idea! Thanks for the info. You'd probably find it easier to punch a whole in something with a little more thickness and toughness, like DC-fix.
...

I extended the experiment tonight and did more or less what you suggested and it seems to bear out my results from last night.

I have some thicker diffusion material that I consider "the good stuff" :) It's from a filter for an old dive light to convert it for use as an underwater video light. I don't have much of that material and I don't generally use it to experiment with. I use it convert a favorite flashlight to a diffused flood model.

I had a small piece that was in effect a scrap. I have a small cheap DX angle light using 1 CR123 and a XR-E R2 that is driven pretty hard. It has a very small head (smaller than my H51). So it throws well, is bright and has that same sharp cut-off.

Since the head is much smaller when I used my hole punch to make a hole in the center of my scrap of diffusion material proportionately it made a bigger hole than in my experiment last night.

The end result is that it definitely has much more throw than a piece of this material without the hole. That was easy to test with this stiffer material as I just slid the light head from the main uncut piece of material to the little scrap on the edge into which I had punched the hole.

The hole was about as large as I would be able to make successfully in another regard. It was large enough that the sharp cut-off was gradually starting to show.

If I had made the hole any bigger the cut-off would have been back. So this confirmed that making a hole in the center of diffusion material will increase the throw and it shows about how much proportionately you need to leave of the diffusion material around the perimeter to continue to have the diffused edge effect.

When ultimate throw isn't need and a nice diffused edge beam is desired this seems to be the way to go.

 

[gcbryan]

I received some world famous DCFix today:) It's easier to work with than tape and isn't quite as sticky. It's not as limited a resource as my diffusion filter material so I'll experiment with it a bit. I've cut out one piece with a hole in the middle to replace the tape I was using on my H51.

I'll have to wait until it gets dark to really see how it compares. I can't tell if it blocks more light or not. It is easier to try to do multiple punches in than tape so I can try to enlarge the center punch a bit for more throw.

I think I enlarged the hole a bit to much and a bit of the edge is showing but I can only test it in a semi-dark basement at the moment. I really can't tell whether it blocks more light than tape either until it gets dark.

Whether I use it permanently for the H51 or tape won't be determined until tonight but it looks like decent material for diffusion in any event.

I'm also taking the tape off my Storm and EOS. I'll either replace it with the DCFix with a hole in the middle or more tape with a hole in the middle. I'll see if I can get a little more throw with all the headlamps (except the H51f) since that effect worked nicely with the H51.

 

[gcbryan]

I put the DCFix on 3 of my headlamps and tried them out tonight (with the hole punched in the middle).

I'm finding that I like the hole for the H51 (which has a reflector) but with the optics of the Storm and EOS I didn't like the effect so I went back to a solid piece of diffusion material.

For the moment I'm using DCFix with the Storm and EOS and went back to tape (with a hole) for the H51.

Tape vs DCFix is a bit of a toss-up. If the surface of the light is fairly flat and easy to install the DCFix is fine. With the H51 I needed the flexibility of tape. Also if any material sticks out the least little bit you will get artifacts from the glare of the light hitting those extra pieces of material. That's when tape is the best solution.

It's nice to have both options. Really it's a case by case, light by light basis. Try it and if it works keep it. If not try something else :)

On a related note...the more I use and like the beam angle adjustment of the Zebralight the more clumsy the method of the Storm and especially the EOS seem. Walking around with your headlamp hinged and dropping down from your head...not the best solution.

 

[B0wz3r]

I put the DCFix on 3 of my headlamps and tried them out tonight (with the hole punched in the middle).

I'm finding that I like the hole for the H51 (which has a reflector) but with the optics of the Storm and EOS I didn't like the effect so I went back to a solid piece of diffusion material.

For the moment I'm using DCFix with the Storm and EOS and went back to tape (with a hole) for the H51.

Tape vs DCFix is a bit of a toss-up. If the surface of the light is fairly flat and easy to install the DCFix is fine. With the H51 I needed the flexibility of tape. Also if any material sticks out the least little bit you will get artifacts from the glare of the light hitting those extra pieces of material. That's when tape is the best solution.

It's nice to have both options. Really it's a case by case, light by light basis. Try it and if it works keep it. If not try something else :)

On a related note...the more I use and like the beam angle adjustment of the Zebralight the more clumsy the method of the Storm and especially the EOS seem. Walking around with your headlamp hinged and dropping down from your head...not the best solution.

I have just a plain solid piece of DC-fix on my H51w and I like it a lot. I also do this with my Spark ST5-190NW, as I like it better than the frosted lens. That lens does spread the light more, but it kills the output a little too much. To my eye and needs, DC-fix is easily the best solution.

I understand what you mean about the angling the Zebralight. I use the clip that came with mine while it's in the headband to give it a little extra friction, so it takes a deliberate twist to change the angle. I place it over the loop that's closes to the base of the clip, and under the loop that's closest to the head of the light. Gives just the right balance of holding power and ease of movement. I've found though, that my Spark is really good for angling straight up for ceiling bounce use; because of its body design and the fact I use it with its clip in the headband, my H51w doesn't do this task very well at all.

 

[gcbryan]

I had more problems trying to use the DCFix on the H51 just because the lens is recessed. If I cut it a little too small there were rings around the perimeter of the beam. If I cut it a little large the excess material wouldn't lay down as flat as tape does and where they stuck up a bit they created glare. You must have done a better job in that regard than I did :)

 

[B0wz3r]

I had more problems trying to use the DCFix on the H51 just because the lens is recessed. If I cut it a little too small there were rings around the perimeter of the beam. If I cut it a little large the excess material wouldn't lay down as flat as tape does and where they stuck up a bit they created glare. You must have done a better job in that regard than I did :)

With the Spark it was pretty straight forward... I just took the clear lens, and cut a square of film slightly larger than the diameter of the lens, then trimmed it down with an x-acto knife. (Because you can take the lens out of the Sparks.)

With the H51 it was more of a challenge. I have a small drafting template left over from years ago when I actually did wargaming with old friends. I used it to make replacement and extra chits for various wargames. It's a Berol RapiDesign 2050; it's got small circles, squares, triangles, and hexagons on it from 2 - 3 mm to 25 mm or so, depending on the shape in question. The round holes on it max out at 25 mm. I just matched up the round hole that was closest in size to the lens of the H51w but just a little larger, then used a fine point Sharpie to trace a circle on the backing material of the film. Then I cut it out and trimmed it to size by hand, checking the fit on the lens as I went. It was a PITA, and took several tries, but I finally got a circle that fit very well.

Since then, I've felt no need to take it off. I suppose that means the next Zebra headlamp I buy should probably just be one of the F models, but it's nice to have the flexibility of taking the film off if I want.

I think CaveDave has a way of cutting them perfectly round and just right for ZL lenses; maybe we should PM him and ask how he does it.

 

[gcbryan]

With the Spark it was pretty straight forward... I just took the clear lens, and cut a square of film slightly larger than the diameter of the lens, then trimmed it down with an x-acto knife. (Because you can take the lens out of the Sparks.)

With the H51 it was more of a challenge. I have a small drafting template left over from years ago when I actually did wargaming with old friends. I used it to make replacement and extra chits for various wargames. It's a Berol RapiDesign 2050; it's got small circles, squares, triangles, and hexagons on it from 2 - 3 mm to 25 mm or so, depending on the shape in question. The round holes on it max out at 25 mm. I just matched up the round hole that was closest in size to the lens of the H51w but just a little larger, then used a fine point Sharpie to trace a circle on the backing material of the film. Then I cut it out and trimmed it to size by hand, checking the fit on the lens as I went. It was a PITA, and took several tries, but I finally got a circle that fit very well.

Since then, I've felt no need to take it off. I suppose that means the next Zebra headlamp I buy should probably just be one of the F models, but it's nice to have the flexibility of taking the film off if I want.

I think CaveDave has a way of cutting them perfectly round and just right for ZL lenses; maybe we should PM him and ask how he does it.

I would recommend that if you buy another Zebralight you should try out the H51f. It is still a little different than the H51 with DCFix or tape over it.

I'm glad to have both. The H51f is absolutely nice to use in most situations. It's just easier on the eye. The H51 with tape or DCFix is nice since it does have a bit more throw. It's still a bit more of a directional beam.

If you are hiking it's nice to use one as a spare battery carrier for the other but it's also nice that there is a noticeable difference between the two beams so you have a choice as to which would be better depending on the circumstances.

I can't see me using the H51 without the diffusion effect at all. Everyone uses headlamps for different reasons though so it may well be the best choice for someone else (even a hiker who just has different preferences than I have).

 

[B0wz3r]

I've been wanting another ZL; I've been hoping they'll come out with an H51Fc model.

I don't do a "lot" of hiking at night; mostly dog walking in the hill next to my home, and occasionally some short hikes at night when camping with my wife and kids. Funny thing is, I don't like using a headlamp when I'm hiking; I prefer a handheld light. I get tunnel vision too easily I guess, and I also wear glasses, so I tend to get glare from most headlamps. (The Spark so far has been the notable exception.) Thus I prefer a handheld light for hiking.

But, when I actually have to do something, like clean up after the dog, or dig something out of my pack, the headlamp gets turned on for that job, then off again to get back to hiking. And yes, other hikers look at me funny when I'm wearing a headlamp but using a hand held light while hiking... :crackup:

At this point, I'm using DC-fix on both my ST5 and H51w. I prefer the Spark for more active uses, while the ZL sees more use in the tent and/or car. Their beam profiles and headbands together differentiate them enough for me to have come to use them for different types of tasks.