Help with dive light mod to LED...

[gav6280]

Looks like it's all coming together then, cant wait to see the assembly pictures...

 

[CBR-runner]

The custom heat sink will be here in the next few days. Then I get to break out the soldering iron and go to town!!:thumbsup:

 

[CBR-runner]

Ok i got my heat sink in and i'm waiting for the reflector.

This is the top of the heat sink and the stock bulb holder with the spare bulb holder removed and the electrical connections isolated with tape.

Bottom of reflector with hole cut in to allow it to center on the old bulb holder

Trying to get it all to fit in the space I have.

 

[wes_wall]

Regarding the magnetic switch, I have drilled it down to a simple build on a homebrew PCB. I will share it if anyone is interested. The electronics is fairly straightforward (I am quite electronically challenged) The trick becomes moving the magnet on the outside of the container properly with some "click." If not, the light can come on and off at will; not a good thing.

 

[heffay]

I'd be interested in seeing the PCB, if you don't mind

 

[CBR-runner]

You can keep everything the same and just wire a driver to the light bulb connection. That way your not cutting everything up. I was planning on using a peace of plastic and some blade terminals to build a plug.

I had it up and running but broke the led when I tried to get everything back into the canister. I blame my hangover :ohgeez:.

I will post some pics latter. It was bright as hell. The headsink will be the limiting thing. I'm getting a driver that has thermal protection which should take care of that problem.

I will also post final build cost and some better instructions when it is all together. It is one bright little light!!!

 

[CBR-runner]

pic of all the parts

testing

beam shot in the daytime with windows open

Its to bad i broke it before i could get in all together. I'll have it together again before too long.

What do you guys think so far?:popcorn:

 

[CBR-runner]

well new P7's are on the way and this thing should be up and running soon. :twothumbs

Hopefully I can refine it to make it a quick and easy mod for all the divers out there. :candle:

It is definitely a bright mod for this light hopefully the thermals stay in check.

 

[HarryN]

It certainly is a nice light, and the big reflector is handy for a big throw beam. With one power LED running, it might work with no heat path to ambient, especially if you turn it down a little - perhaps 400 - 500ma per die.

If you need another LED, Cree has their factory in Durham, NC, less than 100 miles from you. :shrug:

 

[CBR-runner]

CREE IS IN NC!!!

WHY THE HECK DO I HAVE TO BUY THEM FORM JAPAN!!!

:confused:

Maybe i will use a multi-level driver, kinda the best of both worlds.

 

[HarryN]

CREE IS IN NC!!!

WHY THE HECK DO I HAVE TO BUY THEM FORM JAPAN!!!

:confused:

.

I figured maybe you would like to save on postage and buy more locally. :)

Here is the link to Cree's official distributors:

http://www.cree.com/products/xlamp_dist.asp

Just keep clicking on the map until you get to your area. The last time I purchased Cree LEDs, it was from ETG in LA - great service - but that was also several years ago. Still, that is a bit closer than two trips across the Pacific (Cree to Japan, then back to you)

Also, I think cpf photonfanatic sells some of the LED parts, but I am not sure which ones. (over in the marketplace). He also has a web site, but for some reason, I couldn't find the page with parts tonight: http://photonfanatic.com/

 

[CBR-runner]

thanks for the info.

lovecpf Hopefully that can help me cut the cost of my new hobby.

 

[CBR-runner]

well after much waiting and other stuff i thought i had this thing working...

But the current must have been to much for the reed switch and i cant turn the light off anymore. this may be a better mod for the 4c... oh well.

the final driver was a http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.20329 form DX...

any advice?

 

[Packhorse]

use a reed to drive a mosfet or relay.

For the record I have ran that driver from a 12v input with a 7.4v output at 2.8amp and it went fine. But that was with the mode board removed.

 

[steve6690]

I'd just bite the bullet and spring for a HipFlex driver. It's got all the features you need. I have used a MaxFlex with a reed switch and it's fine in normal use but a bit tricky to program the UI with..

 

[CBR-runner]

The driver worked fine it was the reed switch or circuit that broke:poof:. it looked real promising for the first 20min of the run test. The heat from the LED was not bad at all. The driver seemed to be working fine too.

The funny thing is that I can not turn the light off. it is on full time now.



What are the hipflex and Max Flex drivers, and where do i get them?

 

[steve6690]

With the HipFlex you could use the reed switch but it won't be passing the drive current so you shouldn't get a problem with the contacts welding together which is probably why your reed switch has failed closed.

http://taskled.com/hipflex.html

 

[CBR-runner]

It does not look like the reed switch has fused together. :shrug:

Where can i find other reed switches? :candle:

 

[4Ever]

I had the same issue with reed swiches, when it turns on the current is too big and it keeps the reed closed even when you remove the magnet, the only way to stop is to disconnect the battery.
Like Packhorse said, you need to use a mosfet, that way the reed will only see a marginal amount of current and it will work fine.

Here is an a link to an example:
http://brunningsoftware.co.uk/FET.htm

You do not need R2 that will be the driver.

Best Regards

 

[steve6690]

It does not look like the reed switch has fused together. :shrug:

Where can i find other reed switches? :candle:

You can't usually tell with the naked eye. I know this from bitter experience. If you are going to use your existing driver you will need to pass the led drive current through a relay or mosfet which is actuated by the reed switch, as suggested above. It's fairly simple to wire up that configuration.
There's no need to change the driver but if you want to take advantage of the UI and temp sensing of the Hipflex then all you need to do wire your reed switch across the terminal of the driver board's momentary switch.
Reed switches are available from any electronics shop and over here in the UK they cost the equivalent of around $1. This one might be suitable. Be very careful when bending the wires as the glass can shatter quite easily..

http://parts.digikey.co.uk/1/1/431008-reed-switch-mag-spst-12-18at-mlrr-3-12-18.html