Highest output LED bulb in a standard form factor

[racerx2oo3]

Can anyone recommend a very high output (200-300w equivalent) LED light bulb that will fit in a standard light socket. I've seen some on Deal Extreme, however they only mention lumen output and not what they would replace in a standard bulb.

 

[brickbat]

Can anyone recommend a very high output (200-300w equivalent) LED light bulb that will fit in a standard light socket.

I doubt it. Check back in a couple of years... :)

 

[Dave_H]

You are not going to find anything that gets close to that,
at least any with reasonable lifetime. Largest LED bulbs I've
seen in bulb form factor are 7-8W, which roughy equate to
a 40W incandescent. There are spots with multiple LEDs
up to at least 15W or more but are physically larger.

LED bulbs with screw bases have cooling requirements which
are limited to ~10W or less (some would argue 5W) using
convection cooling and integral heatsink.

LEDs may be "efficient" compared to incandescents and
even some CFLs, but most of the power still goes into heat.
This is not to say artificial cooling can't be or isn't used but
that gets into specialized applications and higher costs.

How much are you expecting to pay for such a bulb,
assuming it exists? And how many lumens is the DealExtreme
bulb claiming?

Dave

 

[Tekno_Cowboy]

If you're looking for directional light, you might want to look an an EvoLux, but other than that, I have yet to see anything that bright.

SSC has some new AC LED's coming out that may be just the ticket though :thumbsup:

 

[jtr1962]

LED bulbs with screw bases have cooling requirements which
are limited to ~10W or less (some would argue 5W) using
convection cooling and integral heatsink.

I actually put the limit closer to 3 watts if you want to approach the claimed 100,000+ hour life. 5 watts with passive cooling might give you 25,000 hours life (not bad, but far short of the potential LEDs offer). 10 watts and no active cooling will cook the LEDs in a matter of days.

As for the original question, 200 watts incandescent is roughly 3500 lumens. To obtain that given the aforementioned 3 watt thermal limit you would need LEDs which convert roughly 80% of their input power into light. So if you input ~14 watts, you'll end up with around 11 watts of light (~3500 lumens depending upon the spectrum) and 3 watts of heat. In other words, don't look for it any time soon, if ever. The best white LEDs now are a bit over 40% efficient. It's going to take a lot longer to go from 40% to 80%, compared to 20% to 40%. The physics get that much harder as you try to eek out every last bit of efficiency.

On the other hand, matching the output of a 200, 300, or even 500 watt incandescent lamp is possible with today's LEDs in a purpose-built fixture. For a 200 watt equivalent, you might need about 25 R5 XP-Gs driven at 350 mA, and mounted on decent heat sink. Not exactly inexpensive, but such a setup would last decades, even in a commercial setting, if well-designed.

 

[Bullseye00]

This company makes LED bulbs that fit a standard light bulb socket. They have products they *claim* are 60 & 100 watt equivalents. That probably as close as you're going to get(right now) in a "light bulb" form factor.

http://www.earthled.com/

You'd be better off going with a fixture made for LED lighting, if you can, and if they're available.

This company makes LED lamps, but they only consume about 9 watts, so they probably won't put out the amount of light you need.

http://www.konceptech.com/

Does anyone know if there are companies making dedicated LED fixtures that put out 100 watts or greater equivalent?

 

[LEDninja]

If you put a 200-300 watt INCANDESCENT bulb into a STANDARD light socket you will melt the socket and set fire to the lamp. Most lamp sockets nowadays seem to be 40W max or 75W max. They are plastic instead of the ceramic of years past.

My rule of thumb is to multiply incandescent wattage by 14 to get approximate lumens.
Or divide lumens by 14 to get an approximate incandescent wattage equivalent.
So the Evolux at 1000 lumens is equivalent to 1000/14=~71 watt incandescent.
Most of the bulbs at DX are <200 lumens which works out out to <15 watt incandescent.

CFLs of the power required are too big for table/floor lamps (the shades won't fit). Can not be dimmable. Can not be used in enclosed fixtures. They can be used in torchieres though. Be careful when buying - some come with mogul bases.
55 Watt (replaces 200 watt) M.O.L. (in.) 8.5; Diameter; 3-1/2".
65 Watt (replaces 225 watt) M.O.L. (in.) 9.5; Diameter: 4".
There are other sizes.
I do not have experience with the company - found them via google.

 

[AaronM]

I have a Toshiba 810Lm, 40,000Hr, 8.7W LED "bulb" I got from Japan for around 80USD.
It's by far the brightest thing I've seen in a normal-ish form factor. It only emits light out of the top hemisphere however.

 

[arek98]

EvoLux is pretty high power for a LED bulb but it has a fan in it to deal with heat. I wouldn’t like to have a fan inside "bulb" regardless how silent they claim it is.

I think you can put only that much in fixture that is not designed to cool down a “bulb”. I guess to go higher with LED lights, the light themselves will need to be designed for it.

 

[blasterman]

I agree with you about preferring a totally passive heat sink -vs- active fan cooling - even if it's a low RPM / industrial grade fan as used in the Evolux.

However, if you want a lot of lumens from a 100 year old obsolete bulb format that only curses residential housing you don't have much of a choice. :-{

 

[purduephotog]

I agree with you about preferring a totally passive heat sink -vs- active fan cooling - even if it's a low RPM / industrial grade fan as used in the Evolux.

However, if you want a lot of lumens from a 100 year old obsolete bulb format that only curses residential housing you don't have much of a choice. :-{

Agreed-

Even the high wattage (high? hah) stuff used by GE and other manufacturers for product lighting is based in freezers- where the heat is literally wicked away.

The light I'm working on for my Den is designed with a 12V fan on it. Still requires a transformer (darnit) but at least it will be actively cooled, which lets me reduce the heat sink by about 80%.

 

[blasterman]

Yeah, Active cooling tends to work by necessity. I'm designing a couple really neat lamps for indoor use, and once you start getting into the +1000lumen range heatsinking becomes a real engineering chore.

Also consider that commodity metal prices are low right now, but are likely to start going up real soon. A low RPM, high durability 120mm fan can't just be dismissed. :thumbsup:

 

[balou]

I have a Toshiba 810Lm, 40,000Hr, 8.7W LED "bulb" I got from Japan for around 80USD.
It's by far the brightest thing I've seen in a normal-ish form factor. It only emits light out of the top hemisphere however.

Oh... the Toshiba e-core with 93lm/W? Where'd ya get it?
Seems to be the best screw-in replacement so far.

 

[photonwave]

Does anyone know if there are companies making dedicated LED fixtures that put out 100 watts or greater equivalent?

As far as I'm aware of - horticultural panels and LED perimeter panels, and high-bay industrial panel lighting - I'l be making actual 100w LED panels, but they'll be for horticultural purposes. In a bulb factor, I'm not aware of anything with such performance. I don't pay much attention to home lighting, though I really should since I know I can replace these four 32w T8 tubes in my kitchen with three 20W LED T8-fixture tubes, or maybe even a single 40W panel with 160-degree LEDs.