Check the bin code for your whites to give you their approximate locations on the CiE diagram. Then add a point for your blues (470nm) and royal blues (around 455nm). IF you want to *measure* their chromaticity, you'd need access to instrumentation -- a spectrometer, at least. The resulting triangle shows you the total gamut of your setup.
Now add in the blackbody curve, and where that curve intersects with your triangle, is the "real-world" Kelvin color temperature outputs available from your setup.
Given that white LED's are usually on the bluish side already, I don't see much of a role for the blue LED's you have, assuming your goal is to stick to real-world Kelvin colors...