TinderBox (UK)
Flashlight Enthusiast
I have only been able to test an 2.62v battery and the capacity was just under 2000mah , so 400mah short of the new capacity
John.
John.
Some of the best 18650 cells I have (besides my AW cells) are ones I've harvested from quality battery packs.
I have only been able to test an 2.62v battery and the capacity was just under 2000mah , so 400mah short of the new capacity
John.
So is it the case that most laptop batteries use 18650 cells? If not, how do you know the ones that do?
I have a few Dell batteries kicking about - could be tempted to get out the Dremel!
I have been using my Thunder AC6 charger to discharge them at .2c that`s 480ma but 500ma is the closest discharge rate, I have tested four out of eight an they all have around 2000mah of capacity so 400mah has been lost to aging, no dead ones yet.
John.
This charger had the power supply on it?
Ok, I think that this mha is good for what you expend on this right? not counting the remaining
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Yeah, it has the psu built in , i have seen them for $40 great price, and 8 x 2000mah 18650 for £5.99 is not bad.
John.
I was looking for a hobby charger, but I preffer the models with the ps external.
I see some refurished laptop batteries in ebay really cheap but the shipping cost are really high... Bad luck...
Sent from my phone with camera with flash and internet on it...
The Thunder T606 has not built in psu, but you only save $5 , I was just lucky to find a 8 cell for £5.99 with free shipping, it was sold as untested so it might have been totally dead.
I wonder how accurate the capacity test is?
John.
Carefully. Most are held together with plastic tabs but, worse case, they're glued or ultrasonically welded.
Removing the spot welded contacts on the cells is the hardest part, commonly. I found using strong but precise needle nose pliers utilizing a rolling motion worked well for popping the (usually 4) spot welds.
Be careful removing insulation or adhesive tape/glues-- you want to keep the cell wrappings undamaged.
If the battery pack is bad chances are it will only be the regulation PCB or a handful of cells that are the culprit.
Often cells will have varying 'life' remaining due to how the cells are wired in the battery.
I suggest checking voltages after you've successfully removed the cells and group them.
Toss any that are dangerously below minimum voltages as they'll be the most likely to have serious issues when you try to charge them.
For the rest, charge them under great scrutiny. Cleaning up a ruptured cells is not a fun ordeal.
I walk past the IT recycling bin no the way out of work everyday so I snagged a 9 cell pack the other day.
I put in my old laptop and it reported as 64% full, but that it was "beyond it's useful life" due to normal wear. I pulled it apart and found 9 Sanyo UR18650FM cells. I checked their voltages - all right around 3.8v. I got them all charged up, but only tested one for capacity so far. Discharged @ 1A (a little high apparently, thanks Shadowww, will go .2C next time) and only got 1100mAh out of it. :\
Run time testing was a little more promising, My H60w ran for almost 2.5 hours on high. The cells are still useful as far as I'm concerned. :shrug:
And off-topic, but were there two versions of the H60w? I see some with a stainless bezel and some (like mine) without. And different specs here and here. :huh2:
I've never seen anything other than an 18650 in a laptop battery, and most battery cases are snapped together and don't require a dremel, just a couple of fine flat screw drivers. Just work your way around. It will snap apart.So is it the case that most laptop batteries use 18650 cells? If not, how do you know the ones that do?
I have a few Dell batteries kicking about - could be tempted to get out the Dremel!