ITP A2 ---> maglite conversion (with pics)

[eebowler]

WHY? Because it can be done! simple. :) Seriously, reasons include: 1) Being bored. 2) Having a 2C and a 3C mag and 4 new C size rechargeables and not knowing what to do with them. 3) Thinking up a simple way to convert a small cell light into a C or D cell powered light without permanent modification.

What intrigued me the most was having the convenience of a single or double AA light and also having the option of that said light being powered by larger cells for ultra long run times. (Having a super long runtime light is a little obsession i can't seem to be able to keep under control. :duh2: :) )

A 4sevens Mini died on me a while back so this was canibalised for the project. (The 4sevens Mini and the ITP A2 lights have identical threas so heads/bodies can be interchanged.)

I cut off the top of the mini's body and ground out the anodizing from the inside since the lamp retainer from the maglite was a little too big.



Next, I pounded the lamp retainer inside of the mini head. The little black thing in the above photo is a short piece of aluminum rod covered by gorilla tape. It acts as the conductor between +ve from the maglite to the +ve of the ITP head.





All that was left was to insert the conductor and screw the ITP head onto the mini body!



Of couse, after that was done and I screwed on the head of the maglite, the window rattled because the reflector wasn't there. :ohgeez: To remedy this, I cut a thin piece out of a PVC pipe and inserted it into the head jsut below the window. (There is a small ridge for the PVC to rest on.)



And there you have it! Now, this ITP A3 and and any head with compatible size and threading can be powered by C or D cells.

DOWNSIDES: 1) Since the head is being powered by two cells and not one, output as well as heat is increased. The maglite's bulb holder absorbs some heat from the ITP head but, it doesn't go anywhere so on high, the ITP head gets hot.

2) The ITP head can scratch up the plastic window if the maglite head is screwed down completely. (About two full turns from screwing in completely it doesn't touch.)

IMPROVEMENTS: Idealy the adapter should have a bit more mass or better yet, be as wide as and make contact with the inner diameter of the maglite body to act directly as a heatsink. In my mind, I'm imagining a H22A type heatsink; one end screwing onto the maglite's bulb holder and the other end having threading to fit X brand flashlight head.

Out of curiousity, would you like to have the ability to use your AA/CR123 flashlight head in a Maglite?

 

[JamisonM]

I did something similar with the head of a Fenix L2D-CE. I made it out of a small machine screw, some paper, a small piece of aluminum flashing, and a piece of electric tape. It's crude, but it works. I can only imagine how much runtime a 2D host gives. I'd still like to have a small adapter machined.

 

[jmpaul320]

very interesting... i never thought of something like this

should give 5 billion hours of run time lol

good form :rock:

 

[eebowler]

It shouldn't be hard or expensive to make a simple collar like the cut off mini head for any single, small cell flashlight. I think it'll make a great gift, a small portable light or, just screw in the adapter

JamisonM: Great minds think alike! :thumbsup: I did want to try it with the L2D but didn't like the too subtle differences in brightness between modes.

*Sigh* I DID try to open the ITP to change the LED more than once but failed all times. Even tried boiling in a zip lock type bag for 5 mins but still couldn't get it open.

 

[JamisonM]

eebowler, my understanding is boiling is supposed to soften the epoxy used. After being taking the head out of the boiling water, take a pair of strap wrenches to it. I was lucky with my L1D-CE. I was able to unscrew it by hand. Not so with my L2D-CE. Not having a pair of strap wrenches, I drilled a hole into a little wooden block a little bit smaller than the outside diameter of the head and cut it into two pieces. These I put into a vise and were used to clamp the head to keep it from turning. Next, I wrapped an old rag around the top half and used a pair of slip joint pliers to loosen it. Not the most elegant solution, but it worked and did so without tearing the head up.

 

[eebowler]

I did boil patiently for 5 mins. Used a vice grip with bicycle tubing to protect the head and a needle nose pliars that was shaped to fit into the small holes in the circuit board. They slipped every time I tried. I'm afraid to try again because the board and the holes are getting a bit mangled and don't want to permanently damage the head.