KL1 LS Transplant

[robk]

I'd like to replace the LS in my KL1 with a Q3J Lambertian emitter. The epoxy mounting and soldering is no problem, but how bad is the mechanical disassembly of the KL1? It looks to be sealed with either "black stuff" or loctite, I don't want to tear up the finish with vise-grips!! Is the LS emitter buried in potting compound, or is it easilyremoved from the board? Any help appreciated!
Rob

 

[flownosaj]

I just got done ripping mine apart the other day.

Bezel removal is easy. Get 2 strap wrenches from any hardware store, put one on top and the other on bottom and *twist*

Bezel and optics come right off exposing the board, wire and led. Desolder and pull on the wire/lead (might be a good idea to mark the board/wire as to +/-). Then twist the old led out, exposing the heat sink.

That's as far as I got before I HAD to stop. Anybody got the rest of the narritive?

-Jason

 

[robk]

Does it come apart at the front bezel or at the second "ring" that appears to be sealed with black stuff?
Thanks,
Rob

 

[flownosaj]

I just checked mine to see about that "second ring" and I don't seem to have one on mine. The only part that could come off on mine was be the top section that holds the lens and optics, providing a about a one inch drop to the board.


I'll get out the bright light and see if I can find anything else though.


-Jason

 

[flownosaj]

Okay, I just checked and it's on mine as well. Looking inside, I didn't see the portion where it would connect inside, but that doesn't mean that you can't rip the wires out accidently if there is a screw portion there. I might have just been luck that the bezel thread-lock gave out first 'cuz I can't remember exactly where I had the lower strap wrench attached...

Anybody have an answer to this one, or am I gonna have to experiment? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif


-Jason

 

[robk]

So, there is a threaded part on the second "ring" from the front end?
Rob

 

[flownosaj]

On the top of the second ring from the top is a black rubber thingy (gasket?) and I tried and tried with the strap wrench, but I couldn't get it separated. I don't know what it is since I can't find any joints on the inside when I move the board out of the way

If you're just doing a LS swap, then I wouldn't worry about it too much. You can reach everything through the front end.

That's all I know. Maybe someone else could elaborate?


-Jason

 

[Chop]

There is no potting compound. You won't believe how easy it is to d the swap. Just don't go buying a lone emitter. Get the LS on the heatsink. It's easy to trim the heatsink to make it fit in the KL1. After you do the transplant DO NOT epoxy the new LS in. Just use some thermally conductive paste. You'll need to center it after you do the transplant. If you use epoxy, centering will be a problem.

 

[robk]

There is enough room in there for the "star" heatsink?
Rob
PS- I still haven't gotten it open, kinda of gentle on it as I dont want to crack the lens or tear up the aluminum. Heated it with a hair dryer, but couldn't get it hot enough to unscrew....yet.

 

[brightnorm]

CM did a great 5w/KL1 mod for me. It's probably running at 3W so it's not as bright as the KL4 but is a better tint and burns long without excessive heat buildup.

Brightnorm

 

[CM]

Heat is very helpful here in softening the adhesive. Also Chop is right about the star board. You just need to trim the sharp corners off (kinda round it off so to speak) and it should fit right in. If you trim, trim in a symmetrical manner--meaning if you do one corner, do the opposite corner as well. It helps maintain the "center" assuming the LED is centered on the star board. If it isn't, then you have a ton more work to do. The most time consuming part can be the centering of a high dome in a KL1. The second is breaking the seals without any damage. The third is standing in line at the post office waiting to send the modded package back to the customer /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Chop]

Come to think of it, brightnorm is right. Why take chances. Send it to CM, if he's accepting work. You know it'll be done right and you could get him to overdrive it for you. He does good work.

Tony

 

[robk]

I never saw the insides of a KL1, but I find it hard to believe there is room for the "star" heatsink. Do I have to remove some other piece to make it fit? I figured that SF glued down an emitter to tha aluminum head. I have a Streamlight 3AA that has a Star in it, but I thought that was the exception to the rule.
I'm gonna crack that KL1 open one way or another!
Rob

 

[CM]

brightnorm, Tony,

Thanks for the vote of confidence. Brightnorm, I bought back a mod I did from a fellow CPF'er with a KL1/5W . It was also underdriven like yours. It does make a huge difference in run-time as well as heat management. I also own an L4 and though it is bright, it gets way too hot after only 5 min. on whereas the mod seems to be able to run indefinitely (almost) without it getting too uncomfortable to hold. My modded KL1 with underdriven 5W gets to do lighting duty for me more than the L4. My L4 is used for the "cool" factor, and as an example of excellent engineering and styling of many of Surefire's lights. Can't convince myself to get rid of it, for now.

 

[Chop]

robk,

The inside of the KL1 is actually two levels (so to speak). On the first level is the electronics and the wires come up through a hole in the separator. The LS on its heatsink is on the second level. The electronics and the LS on the heatsink actually occupy two different compartments.

When you pull the top off of the KL1 and look down into it, you will see the LS sitting on top of a round heatsink. Desolder the wires going to the LS. Pull the LS out on the heatsink. Carefully trim the star (refer to CM's recommendations above) until it fits. Solder new LS, center optics, done. I know the star will fit, I did two tonight.

 

[robk]

OK, I was just wondering if the thickness of the "star" would fit in the head. Thanks!
Rob

 

[Klaus]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bowdown.gifCM is DA MAN when it comes to KLx mods - highly recommended - do a search and you´ll find plenty of cool ARC/KLx mods he was/is doing.

Regarding the KL1 vs Star LS issue - /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/banghead.gif - thinking through it this does make so much sense I need to go out and find that :hitting hammer on hand: graemlin for me - I can attest that it is a major PITA to take the emitter of the SF heatsink, solder on a new HD emitter (removed from a star /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif) and THEN try to focus it properly.

Should have talked to CM before that /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jpshakehead.gif

Klaus

 

[Chop]

robk,
The star will fit (with a little trimming) thickness and all. I currently have two KL1's that are running LS's on star heatsinks. No modifications required except to the heatsink that the new LS is on. Took me about five minutes. Just remember to take a little material off at a time. You can always take more off, but you can't put it back on. When taking off material, keep centering in mind.

 

[robk]

Well, my KL1 now has a Q3J LS in it! Thanks to everyone for the tips. I used a small torch (carefully) to heat only the outer bezel ring, and it came right off. Once that was done, it was a piece of cake. Slight filing and the star dropped in place, plenty of room for wires, added a little thermal goop for good luck. Nice, white light with a better hot spot (lambertian), quite an improvement even though it's not as bright as a few of my lights that run a higher current, but I'll gain in the run-time.
Thanks again to all who responded!
Rob

 

[Chop]

robk,

Told you so. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Glad all went well with the mod. It was my first mod too. Now all you need to do is send it to CM and have him overdrive it to 700mA to get the thing really shining. Keep in mind though, twice the current means half the runtime and more heat.

Oh, did you get your Q3 from kingkong? I did and they're great! I might get more just for the hell of it.