L1+L2 Tailcaps

[RyanA]

Is the dual output function a feature of the tailcap or the driver?

 

[DaFABRICATA]

tailcap

 

[Hitthespot]

I believe in SureFires it is the electronics not the switch.

I have placed twist caps from single mode lights on my E2DL and I still have both modes low and high. I just have to twist the tail cap fast to switch modes.

Bill

 

[DaFABRICATA]

With the L1 and L2 it is a resistor in the tailcap.....pretty sure anyway:shrug:

The KX1/KX2/E1B....are in the bezel

 

[Hitthespot]

OK, I wasn't sure.

Thanks

Bill

 

[RyanA]

I believe in SureFires it is the electronics not the switch.

I have placed twist caps from single mode lights on my E2DL and I still have both modes low and high. I just have to twist the tail cap fast to switch modes.

Bill

SF went driver based with the e2dl. :shrug:

 

[RyanA]

Has anyone put a mc-gizmo, or a L2 2 stage switch into a p60 sized tailcap?

 

[gswitter]

Has anyone put a mc-gizmo, or a L2 2 stage switch into a p60 sized tailcap?

Yes

The part you need at the Sandwich Shoppe is here.

 

[RyanA]

Awesome, Thank you, That's just what I was looking for

 

[RWT1405]

gswitter, thanks for the link! Can you (or anyone) give me an idea of what settings get you what on it? Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

 

[RyanA]

It has high and low, how low depends on resistor choice.

 

[RWT1405]

Thanks RyanA, any chance that you could give me an idea of % to each resistor? such as 10%, 25% etc.? Thanks again for the response.

 

[Valpo Hawkeye]

IIRC, the resistor in the tailcap signals the electronics in the body to go to low, unless the value is too low, then it's direct drive. That's why installing a higher ohm resistor gives a lower low. Of course, the low level isn't regulated anyway, so I don't think it matters either way.

 

[RyanA]

There are 4 resistor options, from 15-60 ohms. Because it's in the tailcap it likely varies by battery choice. So a 60ohm on a single cr123 would probably result in a very, very low setting. Most of the 60 ohm switches seem to be used for 2x cr123 apps. So it's just another thing to keep in mind. But mostly, Higher ohms = lower low. Theres a lot of variables that are hard to account for, the driver and led, as well as the power source for example. It's bit much for me to predict. But maybe one of the more electrically savvy CPF'ers could explain more clearly.

 

[RWT1405]

Ah, thanks RyanA and Valpo! I am thinking about them for some of my 6P's with Malkoff's in them (M60's, M60L's, and M60LL's). I can see the most use out of them for my M60L's. Thanks for your time and responses!

 

[Valpo Hawkeye]

I can't think of any way to use a tailcap from an L1 or L2 with any P60-style lamp. The threads on the L1, L2, A2 tailcap don't fit anything else in the surefire line.

Additionally, I believe the "four resistor" values that RyanA is thinking are for the McE2s tailcaps from the Shoppe. The L1 tailcaps have only ever had one value from the factory, IIRC.

 

[RyanA]

yep.

 

[RyanA]

I've got an A19 in the mail, so I was looking at a leef e to c body, and SF lotc with a 2 stage switch. Might be possible to put a l2 switch into a c body tailcap but I think it might be too long, l2 tails seem quite a bit longer that the standard SF lotc or clicky.

 

[Valpo Hawkeye]

The A2/L1/L2 tailcap will only fit those three lights without exception.

 

[RyanA]

I've been running over body options for the a19. The A19 is e series compatible. So a l2 body might work. But I'm leaning more towards a leef e to c with a mcgizmo switch, or just a e2d body and tailcap.