Leak Safe Batts?

[Aux]

I have a SL ProPoly 3C that was just killed by a battery. The battery did not just leak, it /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif vomited /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon15.gif a good quantity of sludge into the tube. The batteries were new, name brand, and about 4-6 weeks old with no runtime. This is not the first time this has happened.

Are the lithium 123's generally safer since they can supposedly be stored for many years? I keep a few good lights handy, but it seems like C and D cells keep letting me down.

 

[EvilLithiumMan]

Every battery type is capable of leaking, but it usually requires some type of stimulus for leakage to occur:

Storage at high temperatures.
Storage for an entended period of time. (Usually over two years)
Storage when depleted. Throw depleted cells away immediately.
Charging of primary cells or charging rechargable cells at an improper charge rate.

It doesn't sound like you have done any of these things - I've never heard of cells so new leaking so badly. What brand are they? All major makers of cells will repair or replace your damaged equipment as long as the cells were not abused. Sounds very unusual to me.

 

[Aux]

[ QUOTE ]
EvilLithiumMan said:
What brand are they? All major makers of cells will repair or replace your damaged equipment as long as the cells were not abused. Sounds very unusual to me.

[/ QUOTE ]

Duracell. I may give them a ring.

Now that I think to the past, this is likely the only situation where leakage has occurred in relatively new, un-discharged cells. I was remembering all of the times in my youth where discharged batteries left to sit made a mess, and likely connected them.

Still a mess however.

 

[gwbaltzell]

I remember when leaking cell were common. On zinc cloride cell the zinc case was also the electrode and was consumed leaving only cardboard. However alkalines always used to be well sealed and seldom leaked. Then a few years back Energizers started leaking even if not used. So I started using only Duracell but they started showing the same problems. My guess is to get more runtime they both have made something thinner. Welcome to the bad old days were you try to avoid leaving batteries in things and check the others more frequently.

George

 

[kozi]

Are You sure they are original duracell ? I heard that duracell is one of most forged producers.

 

[Aux]

Counterfiet batteries? How would one tell? These are from the bulk packs at the home improvement warehouse place.

 

[Empath]

I'll have to look around a bit, and see if I can find it again. Some source, which I apparently considered reliable, once stated that alkaline cells are more fragile internally than is realized. It was recommended that if one suffered an impact like falling that could be considered significant, the cell should not be used in valuable equipment.

 

[StevieRay]

This discussion has reminded me of a question that I have had regarding capacitors. Are there any capacitors that could replace batteries in a flashlight or other appliance that could perform as well as a battery without the potential leak damage? Sorry if this a dumb question for you electronic wizards, but I gotta know!

Thanks,

Steve

 

[rlhess]

I don't think that a capacitor could hold enough of a charge, but I haven't run the math. There are multiple-farad capacitors available. I think the shake light uses a capacitor.

I had two SL 3C Pro Polymers with leaked Panasonic Industrial C cells this summer. This is the scourge of the heat of So Cal. Driving across the desert, I measured the top of the dashboard at something like 141F. The SL 3C LED PP was in the glovebox.

This is the reason I now have an SL TL3 and an SL TL3 LED in the car and I've put lithium AAs in the bicycle LED flasher and the SOLAS approved Xenon strobe flasher (using a reducer from its D cell).

I gave a friend a pair of SL TT 2Ls for his two cars.

I'm fed up with alkalines in the cars. They're leaking more and more, I agree. I've had Radio Shacks, Energizers, Duracells, and Panasonics all leak. I'm moving to lithiums as much as possible.

Cheers,

Richard

 

[Kevin Tan]

killed 2 of my mags. Now long term usage and storage only use lithium and li-ion for daily use.

 

[Gene]

Alkalines are notorious leakers. I haven't had a lithium cell leak yet and I've subjected them to even extreme temperature swings.

 

[illumiGeek]

In my experience of many years of using and selling batteries I find that Energizer Alkalines are probably the least prone to leakage. Duracell is not that great, but they will replace or repair damaged equipment. Rayovac is pretty good. Maxell cells are horrible. I used to work for a place that sold Maxel batteries and we used to find them leaking in the package on the shelf all the time.

Lithiums are very stable and leak resistant and are currently the best cell for long-term storage "emergency" type lights.

Rechargables are a mixed bag. When handled properly they are pretty leak resistant, but if you charge or discharge them improperly they can get real nasty (leak/explode). Also, their short shelf life makes them a poor choice for storage in devices.

 

[RussH]

I have had several alkalines leak or appear about to start leaking in high heat situations like in the car. But no leaks from major brand names stored where the temp does not go above 100F. Leaks only seems to happen to run down (at least half used - below 1.3v OC) batteries. But alkalines self discharge FAST in high heat. I don't use alkalines in the car flashlights - I've used nicads & now NiMH for things in the car. The lithium batteries also seem OK in the car.

 

[Aux]

In general, will nicad or NiMH C/D cells produce less voltage thus light than alkalines in the same flashlight?

Is there such a thing as Lithium C or D cells?

 

[RussH]

Using regular flashlight bulbs, Nicads & NiMH do produce a little less light, while lasting about 1/2 to 2/3 the running time. In fact, the 1.2v rechargable corresponds to about a 2/3 used up alkaline.
I usually compensate by using a lower voltage bulb with the nimhs. A 3 cell bulb is designed for use with 3 alkies at 4.5v down to 3v(dead). Using it with 4 nimh@ 4.8v doesn't noticably shorten the life. Using a 3 cell bulb in a 4 cell application is nominally about a 33% overdrive - much less if switching to NiMH. However, it will still work if someone goes back to alkalines - just expect short bulb life. I haven't had any luck using 2 cell bulbs in 3 cell applications - they often flash right away even with Nimh batteries. You can find brighter bulbs however...
There are expensive lithium C & D batteries. Do a search on this forum for more info.

 

[paulr]

Stevie, the Nightstar flashlights use capacitors instead of batteries. However, runtime is limited to about 5 minutes. You then recharge the capacitor by shaking the light up and down. The light has a coil with a sliding magnet that generates electricity when you shake the light. No batteries! Pretty neat, but not all that bright or practical. See:

http://shakelight.notanumberinc.com/revamp/

for more info.