LED upgrades

[prof student]

When upgrading to an LED drop in, does it matter what kind of light the host is/was?

Does it have to be a previous LED? Or can you simple do a drop in into an incandescent light? (does the LED drop in have bi-pins like the light bulb?)

 

[jake25]

If you're talking about a P60 light, the host matters in some cases the fact that some P60's lamps have springs that are necessary for one host but not for another host. Usually the extra spring can be removed or added off of the lamp.

 

[Burgess]

And . . . .


If yer' talking about a Mini-Maglite,

you will probably wanna' start with

the "classic" incand. model.



BTW, i can strongly recommend the TerraLux TLE-5EX (Cree) upgrade module.

:thumbsup:


Hope that we've managed to answer your question.

_

 

[prof student]

Well, let me be more descriptive.

The first 2 lights I will be moding, most likely drop in as to I do not have any tools needed to do anything extensive, would be

Sure Fire's G2
Maglite 2/3D

I will probably go with Malkoff LEDs.

As for the G2, does it matter wether I start off with the incandescent OR the LED model? Do they tend to be dropins (meaning you just drop it in the right spot, right?) or do you have to soder them with wires & such?

As for the Maglite incandecent, same questions.

Thanks.

 

[Lighthouse one]

Drop ins are not always a perfect fit. I believe Gene's will however,simply be a drop in. The G2 has a nitrol body and doesn't conduct heat quite as well. Many use a drop in for the G2, but there is a small chance of the drop in getting quite hot if you use it for more then...say 10 minutes at a time. Some model drop ins are more powerful...thus generate more heat that needs to dissipate. Gene's are the best with a great heat sink. You might ask him before you buy if he recommends his for the G2. He has quite a few different models now. I'm sure the Mag is just a direct drop in.
Normally when you say your modding a light-it means something different than just changing the drop in. Soldering in a new Led for example.
Good luck!

 

[Yoda4561]

The M60 L and LL are stated to be useable for extended periods in the G2/G3 lights. The M60 shouldn't be used more than 15 minutes(in a plastic body, it's fine in aluminum lights), though I'd keep it down to 5 at a time just to be safe. There's no soldering involved, just pop the old module out and the new one in. G/Z/C/6-9P series lights all use the standard P60 or P90 style module which are dimensionally identical, IE you can drop a P90 lamp in a 6P and use a pair of rechargable lithium batteries if you desire. There may be a small gap between the head and body of the light with some dropins in certain bodies. This won't affect function and is mostly cosmetic.

 

[Gunner12]

For the Maglite, check this thread.

As for the G2L, it uses a P60 style drop-in so check this thread, but since it is also a polymer light be careful of heat build up of the LED module.

For other lights, it will depend on the light you are speaking of.

I don't remember seeing any high power LED drop-ins for bi-pin bulbs. Not even close to enough heatsinking, small size(could be hard to fit a driver/circuit in there), focal point could also be a reason.

 

[ElGreco]

The M60 L and LL are stated to be useable for extended periods in the G2/G3 lights. The M60 shouldn't be used more than 15 minutes(in a plastic body, it's fine in aluminum lights), though I'd keep it down to 5 at a time just to be safe.

+1

The Malkoff uses an optic seated in a brass casing which acts as an amazing heat spreader. This is unlike almost all other LED drop-ins which use an aluminium reflector with the LED on a brass pill screwed into the bottom. I would agree it would be best to only use it for 5 minutes at a time in an all polymer G2, that way theres almost zero chance for damage to the LED. I would reccomend getting one of the lower power M60s (the L or the LL) if you intend to use your G2 for more extended periods of time.