Steve,
I could very well be mistaken on what the original Harries technique specifics are as I've only been officially instructed in the "modified" technique. I also get the feeling you're under the impression that I lack a certain amount of respect for the three gentlemen who created the techniques discussed in this post; to the contrary, all three shoot, and understand shooting, at a level I can only hope to achieve someday. If I came off annoyed it is because I am currently frustrated with my weapon+light shooting and have found that the Rogers technique is my most preferred, something that I'm unable to do with the polystinger I'm mandated to carry.
I understand the Harries technique (regardless of the type of switch used) to involve holding the light with the lamp end toward the pinky side of the hand and either manipulating a "standard" switch with your ring/pinky finger or tailcap switch with your thumb. The support hand crosses under the shooting hand and supports it with the back of the hands touching.
The modifed technique I was taught, along with the Ayoob, involves flipping the light so the lamp end is to the thumb side of the hand and the thumb operates the "standard" switch (not sure of the technical name for that placement of a switch). For the MH (bear with my description), the support hand is palm up with the shooting wrist resting (unintended alliteration) on the support wrist and the back of the shooting hand touching the back of the support thumb. Personally, I found it awkward and less effective than the Ayoob (Everybody has a preferable style and why all three techniques exist), but I had trouble with the Ayoob and getting my splits down; I "lost" the position during recoil.
To give you an idea, my current two-handed (no light involved) 10 yd two-shot draw drill ranges from 2.05 to 2.25 seconds when I want guaranteed hits (upper end when shooting cold) according to the Pact timer at the range (only 9 ring or better is considered a hit for us). Decent, but needs improvement. My splits range about .15-.25 using a DAO trigger and my six shot draw drill hovers a little over 3 seconds at 10 yds as well. I'm attempting to give you an idea of where my shooting is right now when there is no light involved. My shooting is not where I want it to be, but I'm working at it and am looking to get some vacation time when the Rogers School is offering their intermediate shooting course in VA; I've heard he can do some impressive things for your combat shooting.
Now, put a flashlight in my hand with either the MH or Ayoob and my splits climb into the .4-.6 range and reloads are scary long, between 3 and 4 seconds. Considering I'm on midnights and spend most of the shift with my flashlight in my hand, this is a bad thing.
I had a chance to borrow a Z2 recently (I think, it was one of the SF types) from one of the guys who works the range (he carries it on his duty rig) and got to try the Rogers technique. Whole new world: My splits were no longer measured with a sundial and I can reload without having to call timeout. What works for me is something that I can't do with my existing equipment.
I'm not sure where/what the magazine articles thing was from or about; the only articles I've ever read about shooting were the ones posted on the "learning" board at the range. There was one by a guy named Enos that talked about the mental aspects of shooting, and another by someone else about the importance of dry-firing and how often and long to do it for. Both were very helpful as small little touches to the instruction I had and continue to receive.
An overly long answer to explain where I'm coming from and hope to get to in terms of my shooting with a flashlight.