Light for in-car storage and use

[e_dogg]

Hey guys - it's been awhile but I have some new light needs so I thought I'd turn to the experts again.

Right now, I have a couple of crappy crank lights in my cars that I'd like to replace with something good. I've decided on using lithium batteries in them for the long-term storage life with that battery type. I'd also like a single-cell light to keep it small. This means I want either a 1xAA or a 1xCR123 light. I also prefer warm tint.

But I'm having a hard time narrowing down which lights to get.

I think I've got it down to this list of Romisens for their low price and good quality (I already have an RC-N3 WW and love it). Any thoughts on these lights?

Romisen RC-G2 II WW Neutral White - AA only
Romisen RC-N3 WW - Would use in 1xCR123 mode
Romisen RC-N3 II NW - I like that this is 2 mode with a lower setting that can be used inside the car without blinding me
Romisen RC-29 II NW - How well does the flood to throw work? This also sounds handy

Also, is there any advantage to a lithium AA vs. CR123 other than availability of AA batteries? I don't mind ordering a handful of CR123 batteries to keep on hand, especially since the shelf life is ~10 years.

And finally, how is Romisen's "neutral white"? I see in some of the listings that they seem to use "neutral" and "warm" interchangably. As mentioned before, I have one of their warm white lights and like the tint. I also have a Jetbeam 2xAA light that is a much cooler white which is ok but not my favorite. Does the Romisen's "neutral" have a blue/purple tint to it like I've seen in other LEDs? Or is it more like a warm white?

 

[9volt]

Out of those lights I would pick the RC-G2. I've got one of the originals and it's the only DX light I've bought that has stuck around.

 

[brh]

I can only speak for the RC-C6, which is not on your list, but if memory serves is the same basic light as the RC-29, except that it uses 1xCR123A instead of AA. I like the flood-to-throw on that light. I mostly use it for photography in the woods, that is, I leave it on flood. But I know that I can dial it down and get some good throw out of it if I hear a noise, need to look off in the distance, etc. The flood is a nice even circle of light. The more you focus it in (to throw), the more the beam shape starts to resemble the emitter - that is, it gets squarish and funny looking. That's something to keep in mind. Also, it takes a good bit of twisting to get from flood to throw. I lubed up my head threads with graphite to smooth the action a bit. Finally, mine is the 2 level version from ShiningBeam, but the two levels aren't really different enough to make the feature useful, in my opinion.

 

[joe1512]

I think a flood to throw would be useful for a car light as you can go full flood to fix a tire without a blinding hotspot, but have the option to see further away too or for signaling purposes.

A CR123 will be a better bet for a 1 cell light since it is capable of double the voltage and thus will be brighter. I believe they have a 3xAAA version too which ought to work as well. If you do go AA or AAA, make sure to get Ultimate Lithium batteries for maximum life, no leakage, and very low/no self-discharge.

 

[e_dogg]

Thanks for the input and advice everyone!

I wound up ordering a couple of RC-C6 II lights and a handful of CR123 cells from Shiningbeam.

They should be here in a couple of days and I'll post my thoughts after I get to play with them!

lovecpf

 

[joe1512]

Very cool. I look forward to hearing your opinions and hope it works out and covers your needs.

 

[brh]

Definitely let us know what you think! I bought mine for a bike light but never got around to putting it to that use. But it's gotten plenty of use anyway, I love it for macro photography in the woods, and it works pretty nicely as an around-the-houser as well!

 

[ryaxnb]

For incar use id recommend 123A batteries, simply because they put out far more light than any 1xaa light i know of in the value price range ,even with lithium AAs. they last a long time. Rechargable options are weak compared to AAs, but if the light is for in-car, that isnt a problem as you will probably prefer primaries. Also, feel free to keep a baggie of multiple spare 123As in your car for long-term emergencies . The one downside to 123As is if your car has a large amount of AAs (always a good idea for enertainment devices, and other emergency things that take AAs) than you also have to have a chunk of 123A batteries. In this case, i'd recommend a 1xAA just so you can standardize on 1 battery type in the car, probably a ITP A2 or Quark Mini AA.

The basic downside and upside to AA vs. 123A:
* AA Lithiums cost $2-3 each or so whereas 123A lithiums cost anywhere from $1-2 each online.
* AA flashlights typically run slightly less long at the same brightness and do not have quite the peak brightness of 123A flashlights. Since a Energizer Ultimate Lithium Cell theoretically has the power of a 123A cell (1.5v and 3100mah vs 3.0v and 1550 mah for the 123A), this is mainly a matter of circuit efficency being better with the higher voltage provided by the 123A, as well as the 3.0V label on a 123A being a bit lax, they often start at around 3.4 volts initial voltage. With cheap circuitry as found in budget lights, this is even more of a problem; generally, budget 1xaa lights are significantly less efficent and less bright than expensive 1xaa lights whereas with 1x123A lights there is less difference, and an expensive light is often only a little more efficent in circuitry then a inexpensive light (LED efficency is a whole other matter).
*AA flashlights are longer, and although they can theoretically be thinner, the walls have to be a certain thickness (so total thinness is limited) so they are generally somewhat larger overall, especially when comparing budget 123A vs budget AA lights.
* AA alkalines are about .50 but life is pathetic, they leak, and their output on high is not very bright. nevertheless the cost/watt ratio is good, if you dont mind not having a superbright light and the possibility of leakage. They also last only about a year on the shelf, compared to about 10 for lithiums.
*AA LSD NiMHs, the only rechargable option that is super-viable for a budget car light, last about a year before charge becomes low, and last years total (tho they will have to be recharged at some point as charge will leak out). They dont leak, and are good with high currents. But capacity is low compared to Lithium batteries of either AA or 123A type, and gets lower as they discharge very slowly. Compared to alkalines, in a high-draw flashlight, capacity is comparable or better, usually better. In a low-draw flashlight, or a flashlight in low mode, capacity is usually slightly worse. They are expensive, around $4 a battery, but of course they can be reused again and again.
Overall, for in-car, the best budget lights are 1x123A.

 

[offroad]

AA Lithiums cost $2-3 each
AA LSD NiMHs around $4 a battery

Great detailed write up

For anyone who still likes AA's though, you can get AA Lithiums at Sam's Club for $1.65 each in 12 packs and AA Eneloops at Amazon for $2.50 each shipped in 8 packs.

 

[Ecolang]

Great detailed write up

For anyone who still likes AA's though, you can get AA Lithiums at Sam's Club for $1.65 each in 12 packs and AA Eneloops at Amazon for $2.50 each shipped in 8 packs.

Wish I could get them at those prices here. When I can, they cost more than an Eneloop. Like about 50% more. Last time I saw any in a B&M place they were $19 for 4.

Lithium AAs are exotic and expensive here. AFAIK the Energizer patents don't apply here but nobody has imported cheaper ones.

 

[mcnair55]

Wish I could get them at those prices here. When I can, they cost more than an Eneloop. Like about 50% more. Last time I saw any in a B&M place they were $19 for 4.

Lithium AAs are exotic and expensive here. AFAIK the Energizer patents don't apply here but nobody has imported cheaper ones.

Well then you really are not buying them correctly or from the right sources.Forget about B+M you need the net suppliers,plenty of good trust worthy stockists all over the place selling genuine and not fakes.I pay $9.60 for Eneloop (4) postage paid and $8.93 for (4+2 free at the moment) on Lithium AA.All prices converted from UK to $ to go along with your $ pricing.

 

[Tuikku]

The basic downside and upside to AA vs. 123A...

Many good points and facts, thanks!

On rcr123 -lights, I especially like the shortness of the light compared to AA

 

[e_dogg]

I just saw an ebay seller that was selling 4 packs of Energizer Ultimate Lithum AA cells for ~$4 + shipping (don't recall the shipping cost). I think $1-2 per cell shipped is a pretty average cost for the savvy shopper.

Back on topic, I'm very impressed with the RC-C6 II light! The flood is very wide and bright enough to be useful. And the size is nice and compact. With the beam adjusted to be about the same diameter as my Jetbeam Jet-I Pro EX and RC-N3, it's about the same brightness as both of those.

I showed it off to my father-in-law while he was visiting and he loved it enough to order one the next day.

Thanks for the great advice folks!

 

[Navin_R_Johnson]

I think a Quark Mini would be perfect. Pick your battery type and tint. I have a AA mini NW and can see it being a great one to throw in the car with an Energizer Lithium if I didn't want to carry it in my pocket all the time. I could see it useful for all of these situations -

Lowest Mode - Perfect for a front passenger. It is much dimmer than any other light I've had, but is enough to read or check on something without bothering the driver.

Medium Mode - Perfect for a rear passenger searching through a bag or cooler or something in the hatch. Plenty of light to search and as long as it isn't shined directly at the driver shouldn't disturb him.

High Mode - Going outside the car for some reason. breakdown, out of gas, flat, etc.

Hidden strobe - great for warning traffic if there is an emergency on the road - wreck, car broke down in traffic lane, large tree down, etc.

I personally have a Tank007 E07 in my car. I used it when I had a tire blowout at night and it was great for that. The single (High) mode is perfect for out of the car things and might be OK inside due to the very smooth beam of the OSRAM LED. You'd want to avoid shining it at the driver though, and there is no strobe mode. It's cheap too. When changing the tire it would have been nice to have it attached to my head. Maybe a headband or even a headlamp would be good in a car?

 

[ryanandty]

I would not go with a romisen Rc N3 II if you like a warm beam. Of course, I have only had the Q5 version - good deal for a bargain thrower though

Edit: reading too fast, didn't see the NW. You would probably like it, I like mine for what it is.

 

[EZO]

For years I've had a 2D Maglite with a Terralux Ministar 3 Watt LED upgrade (from Zbattery.com) in the glove box of my truck. Never really have any problems running alkalines in it and it makes for a dependable, reasonably bright light that didn't cost all that much.

Several months ago, on a whim I bought a Cigarette Lighter Socket Rechargeable at DX (SKU 21472) and it's great! Cheap, always charged and ready to go and about the size of a Quark 123 mini. Of course, at less than 8 bucks you don't get a Quark quality beam. It's a bit purplish, but adequate and if you don't smoke it's a very worthwhile replacement for a car cigarette lighter, plus it has a small red LED inside the reflector to let you know it's charging that looks really cool and always catches the curiosity of passengers. I certainly wouldn't use it as a primary car light but it makes a great inexpensive back-up and it's always at arm's reach. Good for quick map reading and finding stuff that may get dropped on the floor of the cab at night. There are better quality versions of this type of light available that have whiter beams and a bit more power.

 

[mudmojo]

I keep a Princeton Tec EOS headlamp in the car. Strong and wide enough for tire changing or even an extended walk in the case of a breakdown.

I also have a Planet Bike Superflash (red bicycle taillight) which can be used as a makeshift road flare.